OF 



MALTA AND GOZO, 



BY 



GEORGE PERCY BADGER. 



Kal £ia<7(t>6=vTc£, tots c'ra'poaav on MeXmo fi vy5<joc xaXstrac. 

Ilpa?. Jen'. 1. 



C entre? 



1> ~- — > 4 W 



MALTA, — 

PRINTING AND LITHOGRAPHY BY M. WEISS, 

1838. V(l ^ 



W 



I S 1 i c i 



CONTENTS. 

*) 

PART I. 

Preliminary Observations — Settlement of the Phoeni- 
cians — Greeks — Carthaginians — Romans — Goths — 
Emperors of Constantinople — Arabs — Defeat of 
Emperor's Expedition — Count Roger — Rebellion of 
the Arabs — Emperors of Germany — Kings of Arra- 
gon and Castile — Charles V. of Germany — Arrival 
of the Knights of St, John — Their first acts — Malta 
besieged by the Turks — Confiscation of several of the 
Commanderies — Arrival of the French — Siege of 
Malta — Dreadful state of the town — Appearance of 
the British fleet — The French capitulate — Malta 
ceded to the British Crown . . page 3 — 46 



PART II. 

Geographical situation and features of the island. 49 
FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 

Soil — Cultivation — Industry of the inhabitants — Corn 
— Cotton — Clover — Fruits — Figs — Singular process 
in cultivation of — Supply of water — Cattle — Fowl 
—Birds— Fish 52—66 

BOTANY .61 

CLIMATE. 

State of Thermometer — Sudden changes of temperature 
— Summer heat — South wind — Scirocco — Beauty of 
evening sky — Winter— Thunder. . . i 66 — 71 



CONTENTS. 



POPULATION. 

Number of — Impoverished state of — Causes of the fore- 
going : Improvidence of the people — Want of edu- 
cation — Bad system of teaching Mechanics — Ab- 
sence of a spirit of enterprise in the gentry — Cha- 
racter of the people by a Spanish author. 71 — 77 

LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 

Maltese language not derived from Phoenician — At- 
tempts to reduce the Maltese to writing — Present sys- 
tem of National Education — Inconsistency of— Back- 
wardness of the general mass of the people. 77— 82 

MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 

Native musical instruments — Poetical compositions — 
Songs— Maltese Proverbs, &c. . 8*2—92 

COSTUME. 

Dress of the Males— Dress of the females of the city 

— Neatness of — Costume of the country-wo- 
men . . 92— 98 

AMUSEMENTS. 

Processions: Good Friday — Easter Sunday — Festival 
of St. Gregory — Curious article in marriage con- 
tracts — Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul — Races — 
Carnival — Parata — Origin of — Giostra or Slippery 
pole— Boat-race . . 98— IC7 

ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

Origin of the present Maltese codes — Confusion of — 
Enumeration of the courts — Suppression of the Bi- 
shop's Tribunal — Trial by Jury introduced — Com- 
missions to draw up new codes — Result of their la- 
bours—Language in which the Maltese codes ought 
to be written 107—122 



CONTENTS. 

PART III. 

page 

« of the island * 126 

3 OF THE CITY OF VALETTA. 

oion of the city — Its situation — Streets — Houses 
ole — Warehouses on — Health Office — Exterior 

^fications — Gates 126 

f St. Elmo 133 

Palace * . 140 

AUBERGES OF THE KNIGHTS OF MALTA . . 148 

Auberge de Provence ...... 149 

d' Auvergne . . . . 260 

of Italy — 

— — de Castile 165 

— de France ...... 163 

d* Arragon 154 

of England — 

of Germany ..... 155 

St. John's Church — 

Churches of Valetta. . . . . . 165 

Hospitals 170 

Monte di Pieta 174 

Government University . . . . . 178 

Public and Garrison Libraries , . . 184 

Public Theatre 188 

Castellania' 389 

Banco dei Giurati 190 

Quarantine Harbour and Lazzaretto. . . — 

Fort Manoel .193 

— Tigne . . . . . , 194 

Tour round the walls of Valetta .... 195 



CONTENTS. 



page 

FLORIANA \ij~f 

House of Industry . . . . . , 199 

Asylum for the Aged ..... 200 

Sa Maison 201 

Protestant Burial-Grounds .... 202 

Capuchin Convent 204 

Casa della Madonna di Manresa . • . 206 

BORGO, Or CITTA VITTORIOSA .... 209 

Castle of St. Angelo 211 

Victualling Yard 212 

Inquisitor's Palace 213 

Churches and Monasteries of Borgo. 

St. Dominic's Convent . »."..• • • 217 

Church of St. Lawrence . . . , . 218 

Santa Maria dei Greci 

Convent of Sta. Scolastica .... 220 

BTRMULA, Or CITTA COSPICUA. . . 

SENGLEA, Or ISOLA 222 

Cottonera fortifications 225- 

Capuchin Convent ... . — 

Naval Hospital 226 

Fort Ricasoli ....... — 

Siege of Borgo and Senglea 283 

INTERIOR Of the ISLAND 244 

The Acqueduct — 

Gardens and Palace of St. Antonio . . . 217 

CITTA VECCHIA, Or LA NOTABILE . . . 248 

St. Paul's Cave 252 

Catacombs 255 



CONTENTS. 

page 

Ancient Tombs of Bingemma .... 260 

Emtableb .263 

Boschetto 264 

The Inquisitor's Palace . . ... 265 

Fauuara 266 

Tal Makluba 266 

Ghar Hasan . . 269 

Hermitage of St. Paul 270 

St. Paul's Bay . 271 

Mellieba and Calypso's Grotto .... 285 

Marfa' 290 

Island of Comino 291 



GOZO. 

Ancient name of — History of — Geographical description 
of— Fertility and Productions— Population — Lan- 
guage — Custom 291 

Bay of Migiarro 301 

Fort of Chambray ...... — 

Town of Rabbato .302 

BayofShlendi 306 

Bay of Marsa-el-Forn . . . . . — 
Hagra tal General, or General's rock . . 307 

Grotto of Calypso 30S 

Casal Nadur 309 

Torre tal Gigant, or Giants' Tower ... — 



List of illustrations. 



Zaqq player to face p. 83 

Maltese song . . . . . . 85 

Country-man. . . , . . .93 

Lady in walking dress . . . . 95 

Country-woman ....... 96 

Entrance of the Great Harbour , . . .126 

Auberge de Castile 152 

St. John's Church 155 

Mausoleum of Roccaful and Vilhena . . . 159 

Nicolas Cottoner .... 160 

Zondadari 162 

Fort St. Angelo 212 

Citta Vecchia 240 

Map of St Paul's voyage 286 

Map of Malta and Gozo ... 318 



PREFACE. 



Fior del Mondo is the ardent language of the love of 
otir country, and though Malta, which has received this 
superlative appellation from its devoted children, is 
but a rock, yet "a rock is a rock" all the world through ; 
while the glory of the sky which overlooks Malta, the 
noble port which indents its rugged margin, as also the 
peculiarity of its position with regard to neighbouring 
tracts of the earth, render it altogether a rock singu- 
larly interesting, and of vast intrinsic importance. 

The sky, and air, and country of Malta is African ; but 
its life and civilization is European. And here, whilst 
we have all the fervid glow of a cloudless boundless 
atmosphere, — here, where the orange-grove [yields its 
golden treasures, and the rosy grape in all its luscious 
freshness tempts the gazing eye, — we have also, in 



PREFACE. 



delightful combination, all the arts, science and purities 
of glorious Europe, which stretches her enlightened 
sceptre over all lands. 

Formerly the bulwark of Christendom against the 
bloody banner of Islamism and infidility, and exerting 
a salutary influence o'er the desolations of Africa, giv- 
ing also decisive checks to the infamous piracies of the 
Barbary coast, Malta, now also, in our own times, 
exerts a still nobler, because a moral influence, upon the 
shores of the Mediterranean, and occupies, under the 
benign and all-powerful flag of Great Britain, a proud- 
er attitude than even during the most renowned days of 
her chivalrous story, under the sovereignty of the 
Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. 

A writer, then, who attempts some illustration of the 
past and present history of so remarkable a country as 
Malta, together with the peculiar features of its social 
and political state, however humble his efforts, or con- 
tracted his plan, may venture, without the slightest 
charge of arrogance, to anticipate the good wishes and 
the support of the public. 

The chief design has been, in the following pages, to 
afford to the numerous English travellers, who are con- 
tinually going to and coming from the Levant, now on 
pleasure, now on business, and in their route making a 



PREFACE. 



shorter or longer stay at Malta, some assistance in the 
knowledge or investigation of these islands, The late 
facilities offered by steam-navigation to all the curious 
and the learned, to make researches in the Mediterranean 
seas, have greatly increased the number of strangers 
in Malta ; — as also, the facilities and conveniences, which 
the generosity of the truly paternal government of Malta 
has granted to foreign shipping, have equally augmented 
the concourse of travellers and strangers in this far- 
famed port. 

Here travellers may repose after a long voyage at sea, 
and even attempt the restoration of their health in the 
case of unlooked-for indisposition; and during their 
hours of quiet and solitude, they may perhaps be agree- 
ably occupied with a cursory examination of the things 
which this brief history points out. 

The author has confined himself to objects of utility 
in general, but has not entirely passed over those of ele- 
gance, of science, and of antiquities. And whatever cre- 
dit he may receive for his labours, he doubts not, that his 
intentions will be fairly and indulgently construed. At 
any rate, this .being the first book in the English lan- 
guage ever attempted, on so limited and portable a scale, 
in illustration of Malta, he trusts, that if he does not en- 
tirely succeed in his object, he will have the gratification 



PREFACE. 



of having pointed out the way to others, who shall follow 
him in that path which is always noble and philanthro- 
pic, — that of making one part of humanity acquainted 
with another, and of adding to the general stock of the 
knowledge of the world, by investigating mankind as it 
exists in its geographical situation, political and social 
state, and all the peculiarities of its mind and feelings. 



PART I. 



BRIEF SKETCH 

OF THE 

HISTORY OF MALTA. 



HISTORY OF MALTA, 



FROM ITS EARLY SETTLEMENT DOWN TO THE 
PRESENT TIME. 



Preliminary Observations — Settlement of the Phoeni- 
cians — Greeks — Carthaginians ■ — Romans — 
Goths — Emperors of Constantinople — Arabs — 
Defeat of Emperor s Expedition — Count Roger — 
Rebellion of the A rabs — Emperors of Germany — 
Kings of A rr agon and Castile — Charles V. of Ger- 
many — Arrival of the Knights of St. John — Their 
first acts — Malta besieged by the Turks — Confis- 
cation of several of the Commanderies — Arrival of 
the French — Siege of Malta — Dreadful state of 
the town — Appearance of the British fleet — The 
French capitulate — Malta ceded to the British 
Crown, 

The early history of almost every nation is 
involved in obscurity, and it would be quite fo- 
reign to our purpose, to enter into an investigation 
of the several opinions, which have been advan- 
ced by different authors, as to the primitive inha- 
bitants of this island, the origin of its name, its early 
form and government, and the various natural 



4 



PHOENICIANS. 



causes which have operated to reduce it to its 
present size and shape. We shall content our- 
selves, by giving the reader a short sketch of what 
seems to be the most probable, and least fabulous 
account, of the various settlements formed here 
by different nations, until it fell into the hands 
of its present possessors. 

An ancient author writes concerning this island: 
" Malta is furnished with many and very good 
harbours, and the inhabitants are very rich, for it 
is full of all sorts of artificers, among whom there 
are excellent weavers of fine linen. Their houses 
are very stately and beautiful, adorned with grace- 
ful caves, and pargetted with white plaster. The 
inhabitants are a colony of Phoenicians, who, 
trading as merchants, as far as the western coast, 
resorted to this place on account of its commodious 
ports, and convenient situation for maritime 
commerce; and by the advantages of this place, 
the inhabitants frequently became famous both 
for their wealth and their merchandise."* From 
this quotation, it appears, that the Phoenicians 
were very early, if not the first settlers of this 
island; and the learned Bochart considers them 
the same with the Phseicians, mentioned by 
Homer, generally taken for the aborigines of 
Malta. 

* Diod. Sic. Lib, V. c. I. 



PHOENICIANS, 



5 



Several other quotations from Cicero, and 
particularly from Homer, who mentions the island 
under the name of Ogygia, together with the 
proceeding, if not decisive proof, go far to estab- 
lish the early settlement of the Phoenicians in 
Malta. The argument adduced by some to con- 
firm this, from the vernacular language of the 
country, is as altogether unnecessary, as it is 
uncertain. The several words which have been 
brought forward as Punic, may all be traced back 
to an Arabic original; and in fact, the very small 
knowledge which we have of this ancient lan- 
guage, hinders us from drawing any satisfactory 
conclusions from such a comparison. The Rev. 
Mr. Schlienz, in his late treatise on the "Use of 
the Maltese language for the purposes of Edu- 
cation and Literature," p. 3 — 8, very clearly 
shows, that we have no certain criterion to guide 
us in ascertaining the Phoenician character of the 
Maltese language. 

In the hall of the Public Library are still pre- 
served three medals with Phoenician inscriptions, 
as well as two other monuments of the same 
language. If I may be permitted to advance 
the opinion, I should say, that the sepulchral grots 
in the mountains of Bingiemma, are also remains 
of the work of this ancient people. Any person 
who has yisited the region of Tyre and Sidon, the 

* 1 



6 



GKEEKS. 



early seat of the Phoenician kingdom, and seen 
those which still exist therein abundance, will be 
struck at once with the analogy between them, 
both as to the manner in which they are exca- 
vated, and the position in which they lie. 

From the various medals and other monuments 
which have been found in this island, as well as 
from the accounts of ancient history, it appears, 
that the Greeks held possession of it for some 
time after their expulsion of the Phoenicians. 
According to Thucydides and Sycophoron,*the 
arrival of the Greeks in Malta ought to be dated 
after the siege of Troy, in the first year of the 
Second Olympiad, 755 years B. C. After that 
famous expedition, which has immortalized the 
muse of Homer, part of the confederated Greeks 
returned to their native country, while the re- 
mainder sailed for that part of Italy which is 
called Calabria, where they founded the cities of 
Crotone and Tarento, and many other colonies. 
From this, they sailed to Sicily, where they built 
Syracuse and Agrigenti, and then scattered them- 
selves over the islands of the Mediterranean. 
They chased the Phoenicians from Malta, which 
at that period was called Ogygia, changed the 
name into Melitas, and established here their own 
form of government. 

* See Thucyd, lib. viii. Sycoph, Cassand. lin. 1627. 



CARTHAGINIANS. 



7 



Cicero (contra Verres, lib. iv.) speaks of the 
Temple of Juno, belonging t o the Greeks at Malta, 
as being very splendid, and situated not far from 
the Great harbour. The wo* ship of this goddess, 
most probably existed here in the time of the 
Phoenicians, as may be inferred from a medal in 
the Public Library, by whom she was worshipped 
under the title of Iside. The learned Abela in 
his Malta Illustrata, Lib. ii. Not. y. accumulates 
evidence to prove the domination of the Greeks 
in this island, and the flourishing state of com- 
merce during their government. 

In the year of the world 3620, the Carthagi- 
nians, who had settled themselves along the nor- 
thern coast of Africa, and had seized upon seve- 
ral islands in the Mediterranean, attacked Malta 
and Sicily under the conduct of Hannibal, and 
made themselves masters of it. It was, however, 
not without much effort and bloodshed that they 
succeeded, as the Greeks were continually send- 
ing reinforcements from Sicily to the assistance 
of the island. The conquerors treated the inha- 
bitants with great lenity, accorded to them the 
free practice of their own religion and laws, and 
in a short time, rendered their circumstances more 
flourishing than ever. 

From several inscriptions, which have been 
found here, the fact may be established beyond 

* * I 



ROMANS. 



dispute, that this ancient people flourished here 
at a very early period. A square stone, with an 
inscription in Punic characters, discovered in a 
sepulchral cave near the place called Ben Ghisa, 
on which Sir W, Drummoud has written a learned 
essay, is supposed to mark the burial-place of the 
famous Carthaginian general Hannibal. This is 
a curious piece, and one of the largest remains 
of the Punic language now in existence; and as 
it helps to ascertain the ancient inhabitants of 
this island, I think it not improper to insert the 
translation. 

" The inner chamber of the sanctuary of the sepulchre 
of Hannibal, 
Illustrious in the consummation of calamity, 
He was beloved: 
The people lament, when arrayed 

in order of battle, 
Hannibal the son of Bar-Melee ." 
To such a thriving condition did Malta arrive 
during the government of the Carthaginians, that 
it became an object for the ambitious cupidity of 
the Roman power, after the termination of the 
first Punic war. Twice was the island pillaged; 
the first time bv the Consul Attilius Re^ulus, and 
afterwards by Caius Cornelius. Finally, it fell 
into the hands of the Romans, together with the 



ROMANS, 



9 



island of Sicily, under the Consul Titus Sempro- 
nius, at the commencement of the second Punic 
war. 

By order of the senate, Malta was declared a 
Roman municipality; a prefect was appointed 
over it, who was subject to the pretor of Sicily, 
and Marcus Marcellus was ordered to fortify this 
port, so important for the defence of Sicily and 
the whole of Italy. The Romans neglected no- 
thing in order to conciliate the inhabitants, who 
were strongly attached to the Carthaginians, by 
a common origin and language. They respected 
their laws, encouraged the manufactories which 
they found established, and particularly that of 
cofton, which was so renowned, that Cicero in- 
forms us, it was regarded as a luxury even at 
Rome. Besides all this, the Maltese people were 
permitted to coin money in their own name, to 
govern themselves by their own laws, to admi- 
nister justice, to enjoy the right of suffrage in the 
Roman councils, were eligible to any office in the 
Republic, and permitted to present offerings to 
Jupiter Capitolinus, a privilege the Romans only 
granted to their nearest allies. 

The temple of Hercules and Juno, which ex- 
isted in this island, and which were objects of ve- 
neration to all the people of the East, were very 
much embellished by the Romans. They also 



10 GOTHS. — EMPERORS OF CONSTANTINOPLE, 

raised a magnificent temple to Apollo, and ano- 
ther to Proserpine, and a theatre, of which some 
scattered remains of chapiters and pillars are to 
be seen about the Citta Notabile, where they 
stood. 

Many Roman medals and coins have been 
found in the island, and several inscriptions, which 
prove the privileges enjoyed by the Maltese un- 
der that domination. The curious will find length- 
ened details on this subject in Ciantar's Malta 
Illus. Lib. ii. Not. 6. 

The Goths who had overrun and made them- 
selves masters of Italy and Sicily, and had pilla- 
ged and sacked Carthage, arrived at Malta about 
the year 506; and after occupying it for thirty- 
seven years, they were expulsed by the army of 
Justinian, under the command of Belisarius. In 
the Public Library, is still to be seen a monument 
of the time of the Goths; and several other in- 
scriptions have occasionally been met with in the 
Citta Notabile. 

The island of Malta now remained under the 
dominion of the Emperors of Constantinople, un- 
til the latter part of the ninth century ; but not 
enjoying the same privileges it had done in the 
time of the Romans, the inhabitants did not at- 
tain to their former glory. 

About the year 879, during the reign of the 



ARABS. 11 

Emperor Basil, the Arabs, who had already over- 
run all the East, and conquered Spain, Portugal, 
Italy and part of France, made a descent upon 
the island of Gozo, which they soon took, and 
massacred all the Greeks whom they found in it. 
From Gozo they crossed over to Malta, which 
nobly resisted for a length of time, but was at 
last obliged to yield to superior force. The fact is, 
the Greeks who followed Belisarius, had render- 
ed themselves obnoxious to the inhabitants by 
their oppressions, who were consequently easily 
brought over to give assistance to the enemy; 
hoping that by changing masters, they might free 
themselves from their ser vitude. 

The Arabs, upon taking possession of the island, 
exterminated all the Greeks, and made slaves of 
their wives and children. They, however, treated 
the Maltese with every mark of respect, and 
allowed them the free exercise of their own re- 
ligion. The Arabs soon found the importance 
and the advantages which the safe ports of the 
island afforded to their piratical expeditions, and 
in order to defend the entrance into the great har- 
bour, erected a fort on the present site of St. 
Angelo, to secure their vessels from danger of at- 
tack. They also added new fortifications around 
the Citta Notabile, by them called Mdina, and 



12 



ARABS. 



diminished the extent of the walls, in order to faci- 
litate its defence. 

During the reigns of the Emperors Nicephorus 
Phocas and Michael Paphlagonien, an expedition 
was fitted out in order to expel the Arabs from 
the island of Malta; on account of their continual 
piratical excursions upon Italy, and the whole 
Eastern empire, which had become quite an an- 
noyance. The admirals Nicetas and Manianes 
were appointed to command this enterprise. All 
their measures, however, were disconcerted ; for, 
being incapable of resisting the courage of their 
enemies, they were obliged to betake themselves 
to a disgraceful flight. 

The most extensive relic preserved in Malta of 
the domination of the Arabs, is their language. 
Ciantar gives a very plausible reason why this 
tongue got such an ascendancy in the island. 
He says: "As soon as the news was made known 
that the Saracens had passed over to Sicily with 
a great military armament, the most opulent 
and powerful men of our island fled to Constan- 
tinople, under which government they were." 
Only the poorer class remaining behind, they 
found it almost indispensable to accommodate 
themselvestothelanguageof their masters, which 
became their own in the course of the two centu- 
ries they were governed by them. As a dialect 



COUNT ROGER. 



13 



of the Arabics the present Maltese spoken at Go- 
zo, and in the casals of Malta, is nearly as good 
as th/vt of any other Arabic country ; and it is sad 
to observe how little it is appreciated by the peo- 
ple. With a little cultivation, the Maltese might 
possess a written language, which would yield to 
none in the beauty of its phrases, or the extent 
of its vocabulary. The advantages which would 
accrue to the island from a cultivation of the 
classical Arabic, is ably demonstrated in the late 
work of the Rev, Mr. Schlienz, already alluded to. 

After the Arabs had remained in quiet possess- 
ion of the island for 220 years, Count Roger, son 
of the celebrated Tancrede deHauteville, in com- 
pany with his brother William, expelled them 
from Malta, as also from Sicily and Naples, and 
the neighbouring country. This event took place 
about the year 1090. The inhabitants of these 
islands regarded Roger as their deliverer, and as 
a testimonial of their gratitude, proposed to name 
him their sovereign. Roger accepted of the of- 
fer, and was accordingly crowned King of Sicily 
and Malta, in spite of the opposition of the Pope, 
and the claims of the Emperor of Constantinople, 
Michael Comnenus, however, determined to re- 
instate his power in the islands of the Mediterra- 
nean, fitted out two formidable fleets, and com- 
mitted them to the command of Alexis Comnenus, 



14 



COUNT ROGER, 



and Constantine Angelo; but their expedition 
failed of success, for both were taken prisoners by 
Roger, who, in order to revenge the outrage, car- 
ried his arms into the Emperor's dominions, and re- 
turned laden with the spoils of Thebes and Corinth, 
after having obliged Michael to acknowledge his 
independence, and the legitimacy of his rights. 

Roger, following the spirit of the age, founded 
and enriched many churches at Malta, and made 
some efforts towards the conversion of the Arabs 
to the Christian faith. To these, whom he had 
permitted to remain in his kingdom, he acted 
with the greatest generosity, and only levied from 
them a trifling yearly tribute as a sign of their 
subjection. So far did his toleration extend, that 
he permitted them to stamp a small gold coin, 
with the Arabic epigraph, * there is only one God, 
and Mohammed is the prophet of God, 9 on one 
side, and on the reverse, 'King Roger. 9 Some of 
these coins are still preserved in the private mu- 
seum of Cardinal Borgia at Velletri. 

Notwithstanding, however, the mildness with 
which Roger treated the Arabs who chose to re- 
main in the island, they occasionally revolted 
against his authority. In 1120, such of them as 
occupied the district called Kalaat-el-Bahria, at- 
tempted to massacre the principal inhabitants of 
the island; which obliged the king to send his 



GERMAN EMPERORS. 



15 



son to Malta, in order to chastise the rebels as 
traitors of the government. 

After the death of Roger II, Constance his only 
daughter, who had espoused the Emperor Henry 
VI. ceded the islands of Malta and Sicily to the 
domination of the Emperors of Germany, of the 
house of Swabia, notwithstanding the opposition 
of Tancrede, the natural son of her father, who 
had seized upon the throne. The death of Tan- 
crede, however, and that of his unfortunate son, 
restored peace to the kingdom, and brought 
back to theparty of Constance those ofthe barons 
whose dislike for a foreign prince had hitherto 
caused them to take sides against her. 

Under the government cf Henry VI. and of his 
son Frederic II. the Maltese greatly signalized 
themselves by their valour at sea. Under one 
of their own admirals, they attacked and destroy- 
ed a squadron of the Republic of Pisa, which had 
come to lay siege to Syracuse ; and took the island 
of Candia from the Venetians, after having shat- 
tered their fleet, and taken prisoner their admiral 
Andrea Dandalo. 

After this island had remained for seventy-two 
years under the German Emperors, Manfred, the 
natural son of Frederic II. formed the horrible de- 
sign of poisoning his father, and making himself 
master of his dominions. The cruel oppressions 



16 



FRENCH. 



and tyrannical proceedings of this usurper, ex- 
cited a rebellion of the Maltese and Sicilians 
against his government, and finally caused Pope 
Urban IV. to solve all his subjects from their 
allegiance to him. To save the consequences of 
such powerful opposition, he offered his daughter 
Constance in marriage to Peter, son of James, 
King of Arragon. This alliance, however, had 
no other effect upon Urban than of completing 
his enmity towards Manfred; and without any 
right, except that presumptuously assumed by 
his predecessors, he invested Charles of Anjou, 
King of France, with the possession of Sicily and 
Naples, and their dependant states. This pro- 
ceeding was as unjustly confirmed by his succes- 
sor Clement IV, who reserved to himself the 
duchies of Benevento and Ponte-Corvo, in the 
kingdom of Naples, and a yearly tribute of forty 
thousand crowns, which Charles obliged himself 
to pay to the Papal See on St. Peters day. 

A battle which took place between the forces 
of Charles and Manfred, on the plains of Bene- 
vento, on the 26th. February, 1266, decided the 
fate of the kingdom in favour of the former. 
Manfred met the just punishment of his parricide 
and his other crimes, by being slain on the field, 
and his wife and children taken prisoners by the 
conqueror. 



FRENCH. 



IT 



In the mean time, Corradin, the legitimate son 
of Fred. II. and rightful heir to the crown, who 
was at this period sixteen years old, in company 
with the Duke of Austria, prepared to rescue 
his father s dominions from the hands of Charles. 
After various successes, they penetrated as far as 
the town of Aquila in the Abruzzi, where a 
battle was fought on the plain of Lis, close by 
the lake of Celano, in the year 1268. The troops 
of Corradin, being chiefly recruits composed of 
different nations, and fatigued by long marches, 
could not resist the impetuosity of the French 
soldiery, and so were obliged to yield. The Duke 
of Austria, together with Corradin, were behead- 
ed in the market-place at Naples, and with the 
latter the ancient house of Swabia became extinct. 

The daughter of Manfred, whose husband was 
now king of Arragon, with the title of Peter III. 
used all her influence, to inspire him to assert his 
claims to the kingdom of Sicily and Malta. The 
tyranny of Charles had already rendered him ob- 
noxious to the people over whom he governed, 
and it was not long before a desperate attempt 
was formed by a private Sicilian gentleman, who 
was secretly attached to Peter, to massacre all 
the French in the kingdom at a given signal. 
This famous conspiracy, known by the name of 
the Sicilian Vespers, was carried into effect on 

-X * * 



18 



ARRAGONESE, 



Easter day of the year 1282, during which the 
King of Arragon was proclaimed sovereign of 
Sicily, and publicly crowned in the cathedral of 
Palermo. 

Charles was in Tuscany when the news of this 
tragical event reached him. He immediate- 
ly set about making endeavours to regain his 
lost authority ; but his fleet, commanded by his 
son, was discomfited by Admiral Roger, who 
commanded the vessels of the Arragonese. After 
this, Roger steered towards Malta, which at that 
time was governed for the French by William 
Corner, who had a squadron under his command 
lying in the harbour. After a bloody engage- 
ment, with much loss on both sides, the French 
commander was obliged to capitulate, and thus 
the island came under the dominion of the Ar- 
ragonese. 

The island of Malta, after having suffered so 
much from the dissensions of its successive mas- 
ters, was now destined to undergo even worse 
treatment, from the individuals to whom it was 
successively given as a fief by the Kings of Arra- 
gon and Castile. Notwithstanding the solemn 
promises made by King Louis, son of Peter II. at 
the just and urgent representations of the Maltese, 
that the island should in future be considered as 
unalienable from the crown of Sicilv, it was twice 



CHARLES V. OF GERMANY. 



19 



afterwards mortgaged by King Martin; first, 
to Don Antonio Cordova, and subsequently to 
Don Gonsolvo Monroi, for the sum of 30,000 
florins. 

Oppressed out of measure with the grievous 
yoke which they had to endure under these cir- 
cumstances, and wearied of making useless com- 
plaints, the Maltese resolved to pay to Martin 
the sum for which the island had been pledged. 
This generous offer was accepted, and in the year 
1350, by a public act of the king, it was decreed 
that the islands of Malta and Gozo should hence- 
forth never be separated from the kingdom of 
Sicily; and that their inhabitants should enjoy 
equal privileges, with those of Palermo, Messina, 
and Catania. 

In 1516, this entire kingdom passed into the 
hands of Charles V. of Germanv, the heir of all 
the Spanish dominions. Notwithstanding his 
confirmation of the previous declaration of his 
predecessors, concerning the perpetual junction 
of Malta with Sicily, this emperor, for political 
reasons, resolved to cede up the island to the Or- 
der of St. John of Jerusalem, the remains of which 
were at that time at Viterba, in the Papal States. 
The act of the donation is dated at Castel Franco, 
near Boulogne, March 23, 1530; and the document 
of the acceptance of the gift, by the council of the 



20 



ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 



Order, April 25th. of the same year. The sub- 
stance of the act was as follows: That the Empe- 
ror Charles V.King of Sicily, gave to the Order of 
St. John of Jerusalem, in his name, and in that 
of Jiis successors, the islands of Malta, Gozo, 
Comino, and Tripoli in Africa, as a free and noble 
fief, with all the privileges of the sovereignty, 
under these conditions: 

1. That every year the Order should present a 
falcon to the king, or viceroy of Sicily. 

2. That the bishoprick of Malta should always 
be nominated by the king. 

3. That the chief admiral of the fleet should 
always be an Italian. 

4. That they should preserve to the Maltese 
all their rights and privileges. 

The Grandmaster having accepted these 
conditions, embarked to take possession of the is- 
land, where he arrived on the 26th. of October 
1530, accompanied by a great many knights and 
principal officers of the Order. The Maltese, at 
first, were by no means pleased at the change, 
which they considered as an infringement upon 
their engagement with the King of Sicily; but, 
being assured by the Emperor, that their privi- 
leges would be religiously preserved to them by 
the new government, they quietly submitted. 

The first care of the knights, after having 



ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 



21 



settled their authority through the two islands, 
was to provide some better accommodation for 
the present, and to choose a proper place to fix 
their habitation. But, as the island had no other 
defence than the old castle of St. Angelo, and was 
so much exposed on all sides, that it would have 
required greater sums than their exhausted trea- 
sury could spare, to put it in a proper state to re- 
sist an attack, the Grandmaster was obliged to 
content himself with surrounding the above men- 
tioned castle, (wherein he had ordered new build- 
ings to be reared for the present habitation of his 
knights) with a stout wall, to prevent its being 
surprised by the Turkish and Barbary corsairs. 

The Turks made several attempts to gain a foot- 
ing on the island; but were always repulsed with 
loss. In 1546, the famous corsair Dragut effected 
a landing, and sacked the village of Tarshien; 
but being attacked by the English commander 
Upton, at the head of the Maltese, he was obliged 
to betake himself to a disgraceful flight. In 1551, 
another attempt was made, which proved equally 
unsuccessful to the Turks; but in which the Order 
lost the Cavalier Repton, the Grand Prior of Eng- 
land. D' Omedes, who was Grandmaster at 
this time, added a great many fortifications to the 
island. L'Isle de la Sengle, his successor, carried 
on these means of defence, especially the walk 



22 



ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 



around the peninsula, which is now called after 
his name, La Sengle, or Senglea. 

During the reign of John de LaValette who suc- 
ceeded La Sengle, Malta was destined to under- 
go its severest attack from the hands of the Turks. 
A short sketch of the siege and the capture of the 
castle of St. Elmo will be given under the de- 
scription of that fort, which was the only place 
the enemy succeeded in taking. After two suc- 
cessive attempts, the united forces under Musta- 
pha and Dragut were obliged to set sail from the 
island, after suffering great loss, and giving the 
Knights of Malta an opportunity of testing their 
renowned bravery and signal courage. 

One of the first cares of the Grandmaster, 
after repairing the fort, which had greatly suf- 
fered during the siege, was to enlarge the castle 
of St. Elmo, as this was the chief key of the two 
ports. But his great design was that of building 
a new city on the peninsula where it stood, and 
of fortifying it in such a manner, as might ren- 
der it a more secure retreat for the Order than 
that of Borgo, which is commanded by rocks and 
eminences. As soon as he had secured sufficient 
assistance, he immediately set about procuring 
the best engineers for the enterprise; workmen 
and materials were brought from Sicily, and he 
was enabled to lay the first stone of the new 



ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 



23 



city, on the 28th. day of March 1566. In 1571, 
three years after the death of La Valette, the city 
was completed by the Grandmaster Peter de 
Monte, and from that time became the seat of 
the government. 

The successive Grandmasters of the Order aug- 
mented the fortifications which had been begun 
under La Valette, raised numerous forts in the 
interior, and along the coast of the island, and 
established various institutions, which shall be 
described in the sequel of this work. A preda- 
tory warfare, by sea and land, was continually 
kept up between the Knights of Malta and 
the Turks, in which the forme/ generally dis- 
played more valour than true christian charity. 
They were in general successful, and at length 
became quite a terror to the Ottoman power. 

During the Grandmastership of Emmanuel de 
Pinto, the King of Sicily made some preten- 
sions on the island of Malta, declaring that it had 
only been yielded up to the Order, on condition 
that the supreme sovereignty should continue to 
be vested in the hands of the Kings of Sicily; 
that consequently he intended to send a Court 
to the island, called Monarchia, which should have 
the jurisdiction over all public affairs. This mes- 
sage was considered an infringement upon the 
rights of the existing government, and treated 

*2 



24 



ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 



with that indignity which so false an assertion 
merited. Still the king persisted in his attempt, 
and went so far, as to send the threatened court, 
in a splendid barge, handsomely damasked on the 
inside, to establish themselves in the island. Hear- 
ing of the arrival of so extraordinary an embassy, 
the Grandmaster sent forthwith to demand their 
errand; and not less astonished than enraged, when 
he understood that it was the Monarclua, he im- 
mediately ordered them to leave the harbour, and 
declaring that in ease they disobeyed, he would 
honour them with a salute of shot . Not expecting 
such a reception, the disappointed court weighed 
anchor, and returned home. When the king heard 
of the failure of his scheme, he ordered the ports of 
Sicily to be closed against all Maltese vessels, and 
cut off the communication between this island 
and his dominions. This was a terrible blow to 
Malta, as all her supplies were derived from Sici- 
ly; and, being at continual war with the Turks, she 
could procure nothing from Africa. At this cri- 
sis, the Grandmaster entered into a truce with 
the Infidels, in order that the Ottoman ports 
might be opened to the Maltese. The Turks 
gladly accepted the proposal, as it gave them 
a short reprieve from the uninterrupted annoy- 
ance which their commerce received from the 
gullies of the Knights. During this time, the 



ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 



25 



Turks continually brought supplies of every kind 
to the island; and were so assiduous in their at- 
tentions, that they even imported snow during 
summer, which is so much used here in making 
refreshments. Acting now as they did in con- 
junction with the Order, in carrying on an offen- 
sive warfare against the King of Sicily, they soon 
made him feel, that he had raised up against him- 
self a formidable enemy, which he was not able to 
repress. After loosing many of his vessels, which 
had been seized by one or other of his enemies, 
he sought for a renewal of the peace, relinquished 
his unjust claims, and made every possible re- 
paration to the Grandmaster, for the war he had 
occasioned. 

The Bailiff Emmanuel de Rohan, of the lan- 
guage of France, succeeded Ximenes, the succes- 
sor of Pinto, in the year 1775. One of his first 
acts after his elevation was to strengthen the 
executive government, by the formation of a re- 
gular battalion of infantry, composed promis- 
cuously of Maltese and foreigners ; but officered 
exclusively by knights. This step w r as thought 
decidedly necessary, if the knights wished to 
preserve their authority ; and the plan was stre- 
nuously recommended by several friendly pow- 
ers. This corps was intrusted with the keeping 
of La Valette, and the other important forts; 



26 



ORDER OF ST, JOHN. 



while a considerable force was also enrolled to 
guard the open coast. Several other efforts 
were made by the Grandmaster, to revive the 
ancient discipline of the Order; judicious altera- 
tions were carried into effect in the courts of 
judicature, and additional facilities given to pub- 
lic education. Nor, while thus busied in im- 
proving the internal administration, did the 
Grandmaster neglect the foreign policy of the 
Order. In Poland he obtained the restitution 
of some ancient possessions, and had new com- 
manderies formed in Russia and Germany ; which 
latter were endowed with the confiscated proper- 
ty of the Jesuits, to the extent of £15,000. 

This, however, was only the sunshine of pros- 
perity, which was destined to be darkened by 
the clouds of adversity. Towards the latter 
part of Emmanuel de Rohan's reign, the Order 
suffered serious losses, by the extinction of ma- 
ny of its commanderies, and the taxes imposed 
upon others by their several governments. By 
an edict of France, dated 19th. of September 
1792, the Order of Malta was declared to be ex- 
tinct within the French territories, and its pos- 
sessions were annexed to the national domains. 
To shew the delapidated state of the revenue, it 
need only be mentioned, that the receipts, which 
were in 1788 upwards of three million of livres. 



FRENCH. 



27 



were in 1797 reduced to one million. Not onlv 
were the possessions of the three French lan- 
guages confiscated, but the German and Arragon- 
ian commanderies, situated in Alsace, Rousillou 
and French Navarre, fell also a prey to repub- 
lican rapacity. Even in Spain, Sicily, Portu- 
gal and Naples, a similar system of spoliation 
had taken place. In this extremity, the Grand- 
master Hompesch, who had succeeded Rohan, 
found it necessary to melt and coin the plate of 
the gallies, and part of that used for the service of 
the hospitals; and to make use of the jewels, which 
were deposited in the palace, and in several of 
the churches. 

The French government, which had for some 
time manifested a spirit of hostility to the Order, 
now came forward to display it openly. The first 
division of the French fleet arrived before the port 
of Malta, on the 6th. of June 1798. On the 9th, 
General Bonaparte, with the remainder of the 
squadron, stood off the island, and through his 
consul Carson demanded free admission for the 
whole fleet. This not being complied with, on the 
same day, towards evening, the French began to 
disembark at the bay of Sta. Maddalena, and car- 
ried the small fort of St. George, without the loss 
of a single life. On the following day, fresh bodies 
of troops were thrown ashore, without meeting 

**2 



28 



FRENCH. 



with any resistance; who immediately began to 
lay waste the island with their usual license. To- 
wards the evening, the French army had secured 
almost all the important posts in the country, and 
had advanced beneath the walls of the city, where 
the greatest uproar now prevailed among the 
people, on account of the treachery which had 
been discovered among seyeral knights of the 
Order. 

On the 17th. a council was called, and it was 
resolved to yield up the city into the hands of the 
besiegers. No sooner did the French find them- 
selves the uncontrolled masters of the island, than 
they enjoined all the knights to quit it within three 
days. About ten pounds sterling were advanced 
to each, for the expenses of his journey ; but he 
was not permitted to depart, until he had torn the 
cross from his breast, and mounted the trico- 
loured cockade. By the articles of capitulation, 
the French engaged to pay the Grandmaster an 
annual pension of 300,000 livres, and to each 
French knight resident in Malta, a yearly allow- 
ance of 700 livres, with 300 liyres additional 
to such as exceeded sixty years of age. Horn- 
pesch, accompanied by twelve knights, embark- 
ed on the night of the 17th. of June, on board 
a merchant ship bound for Trieste, accompanied 
by a French frigate. This weak man died at 



FRENCH. 



29 



Montpelier in 1804, in the sixty-second year of 
his age. The knights who followed the most 
prosperous course, at the general dispersion, 
were those who took refuge in the Russian do- 
minions, under the wing of their Imperial pro- 
tector. The Emperor Paul was solemnly inau- 
gurated, as the seventieth Grandmaster of the 
Order, in the year 179S; a nominal dignity, 
after which he had anxiously longed. At the 
same time, the standard of St. John was hoisted 
on the bastions of the Admiralty at St. Peters- 
burgh, where it continues unfurled unto this day. 

Paul made several attempts to reorganize the 
Order; and to this end invited the nobility of 
Christendom to enlist themselves as knights in 
its service. A sudden change of policy, however, 
put an end to his project; for the army which he 
had raised to act in junction with the English for 
the reconquest of Malta, was sent to act against 
the British possessions in the East. 

The French expedition, with General Bona- 
parte, weighed anchor from Malta, on the 19th. 
of June, leaving General Vaubois with 4,000 
men for the defence of the island. The rarities 
found in the public treasury, and in the churches 
of the Order, together with then* standards and 
trophies, were all carried away by the spoilers, 
but never reached the country for which they 



30 



FRENCH- 



were destined: part of them perished in the 
Orient, which was blown up in the battle of Abou- 
kir, and the rest were captured by the English in 
the Sensible frigate, which afterwards fell into 
their hands. 

In the meanwhile, the Maltese began to feel 
that they had exchanged a feeble despotism for 
a yoke of extreme rigour. The French soldiery 
committed all sorts of depredations throughout 
the city; all faith was violated, every species of 
injustice was committed, the pensions suspended, 
and even the charitable benefactions to the indi- 
gent, which the knights had daily continued to the 
hour of their surrender, were withheld. These 
acts of oppression created an invincible antipa- 
thy in the Maltese for the government of their 
conquerors, and at length produced a sudden burst 
of popular vengeance. An attempt was made 
to despoil the church of the Citta Notabile, in 
order that its decorations might be sold for the 
public service; whereupon the inhabitants, ren- 
dered furious by a proceeding so sacrilegious, 
congregated in a body to prevent the sale. The 
French commandant Mosson succeeded in partly 
quelling the tumult; but he soon found it neces- 
sary to apply for fresh troops from Valetta. 
Before these could arrive, the population was 
reinforced by the villagers of Casal Zebbug, who 



FRENCH, 



31 



massacred the entire French detachment, with 
their commander, amounting to sixty men. From 
this moment, all communication ceased between 
the city and the interior, and Valetta assumed the 
aspect of a place reduced to a state of blockade. 

Matters were in this state when the English 
fleet appeared off the island, and in conjunction 
with a Portuguese squadron held a parley; in 
which it was demanded, that the island should 
be immediately evacuated. The answer return- 
ed was one of defiance; and a rigorous block- 
ade was forthwith commenced. The Portuguese 
admiral was left alone to maintain the blockade 
during the temporary absence of the English 
squadron ; on the return of which, a fresh sum- 
mons was sent for the place to surrender. 
Early in December the same was repeated, 
which was firmly and laconically answered. Hi- 
therto the city had only been partially canon- 
aded by a few guns; but on the night succeeding 
the last refusal, several new batteries were 
unmasked, and some balls happening to fall 
within the walls, the inhabitants feared that 
the threatened bombardment was about being 
put into execution. Famine now began to stare 
them in the face ; and the greatest misery raged 
among the citizens and soldiery. In these 
circumstances, the inhabitants of the interior 



32 



FRENCH. 



planned an enterprize against the garrison, in 
conjunction with a strong body of the town peo- 
ple, who were involved in the plot, and who 
were ready to rise in arms, as soon as they should 
hear the clangour of arms on the battlements. 
Two hundred Maltese, favoured by the night, 
crept into the ditches, and along the sea shore, 
close under the city walls in the Marsamuscetto 
harbour; but while laying in ambush, they were 
unfortunately discovered, and the alarm was gi- 
ven to the garrison. On this occasion, forty-four 
of the conspirators were apprehended, and shot 
by the French authorities. 

The blockade had now lasted for six months, 
and the city exhibited a scene of frightful priva- 
tion. The besiegers would not permit any to leave 
the tov/n, knowing that their doing so would 
relieve the garrison. Disease added its rava- 
ges to the general suffering, and soldiers and 
citizens became alike its victims. Month after 
month passed heavily over, and in August 1800, 
the citizens being totally beggared, the army was 
put on half pay. Four months afterwards it was 
entirely stopped, and their rations greatly less- 
ened. Still they bore all with astonishing for- 
titude, being supported with the hope of speedy 
deliverance. At length, however, the news of the 
interception of the supplies, and their capture 



BRITISH. 



33 



by the English, disheartened many, though 
it did not at once decide them to capitulate. 
The condition of the town was dreadful beyond 
description. Fresh pork brought seven shillings 
and two pence a pound; rats sold at an exor- 
bitant price; dogs and cats were generally eaten; 
and horses, asses and mules were similarly con- 
verted into articles of food. On the 8th. of 
September 1800, a parley was held with the be- 
siegers, when the terms of capitulation were ar- 
ranged and ratified by Major General Pigot and 
Commodore Martin on behalf of the English. 
On the afternoon of the same day, two English 
frigates and some small craft entered the port; 
while the British troops took possession of the 
Forts Tignfe, Ricasoli, and Floriana. The follow- 
ing morning, the French garrison sailed away, 
after having endured an obstinate blockade of two 
years. 

In the year 1814, agreable to the resolution 
of the Congress of Vienna, the islands of Malta, 
Comino and Gozo were confirmed to the Eng- 
lish crown; and they have ever since been consi- 
dered, by all the powers of Europe, as a British 
dependency. 

By way of comparison, we shall just give a 
succint account of the state of financial affairs 
during the last years of the reign of the Knights 



34 



BRITISH. 



of Malta, in order to shew that the island has lost 
nothing in point of wealth or prosperity, in hav- 
ing ceased to be the conventual residence of that 
government, and in having come under the rule 
of the British Crown. 

Reverting to the public expenditure of the 
Order, it may be satisfactory to compare it with 
the disbursement made here in present times out 
of funds voted by the British parliament. 

In the time of the Order the general treasury, 
which may be said to answer to our military chest, 
provided for the military and nayal charge, so 
far corresponding with the supplies now made by 
Her Majesty's treasury for carrying on similar 
services on this station. 

The money laid out within the place by the 
general treasury from the foreign resources of 
the Order, on an average of ten years ending in 
1788, did not exceed, if it even amounted to 
£82,525. 

From the First Report of the Commissioners of 
Colonial Inquiry, 8th. December 1830, it is col- 
lected that the disbursement from the revenues 
of the United Kingdom made within these islands 
for the service of the land-force alone, including 
the commissariat and ordnance departments, but 
leaving out the Maltese regiment (the expense 



BRITISH. 



35 



of which is refunded from the local treasury,) 
amounted in round numbers to £101,000.* 

Of this sum, it may be inferred from the same 
Report, that about £7,000were expended in Eng- 
land; which will leave £94,000 for the local ex- 
pense, being in round numbers £11,000 more 
than were laid out in the place from the trea- 
sury of the Order for all its services. 

To this excess of £1 1,000 must be added the 
expenses of the naval department in works of 
masonry, in the repairs and supplies of ships of 
war, and in payments on account of seamen's 
wages, all of which have been very considerable 
of late years, though varying according to cir- 
cumstances; and it will probably result that, for 
the lowest year, the expenditure of the United 
Kingdom in these islands has exceeded by about 
fifty per cent the corresponding public expense 
of the Order. 

By the same document it is seen that the works 
and repairs of the ordnance and barrack depart- 
ments amounted in 1829 to no less a sum than 

* According to the parliamentary return of the mili- 
tary expenses lately laid upon the table of the House of 
Commons, it appears that the expense of this island to 
the Military Chest of Great Britain was, for the year 
ending 3lst. March 1837, £167,671 ; only exceeded by 
the extensive colonies of Jamaica, the West Indies, Ca- 
nada, New South Wales, and the Cape of Good Hope. 

# *#9 



36 



BRITISH. 



£6,390; and, if the extensive works of the naval 
department be added, it must be evident that the 
Order cannot approach a comparison with the 
British government on the score of employment 
given to the industrious inhabitants, whose inte- 
rests are no longer, as they were then, opposed 
by the forced labour of slaves. 

Besides the expenditure out of the public trea- 
sury of the Order, it is assumed, on a generous 
calculation, that the sum of £185,000 was annu- 
ally put into circulation in the island out of the 
private incomes of the knights and other mem- 
bers. Against these disbursements are to be set 
the whole personal expenditure of naval officers, * 
the portion of expense arising from the private 
incomes of military officers, and the excess of mo- 
ney spent beyond what may have been the case 
formerly, in consequence of the greater affluence 
of strangers to the place, under the extended 
connexions and superior protection now enjoyed 
through British power and influence. 

The last assumption may indeed admit of 
dispute; but in whatever light it may be 
viewed, it will remain with the reader to form 
his own conclusion in regard to the extent to 



* That of the seamen, originating from the military 
chest ; comes into the comparison of public expenditure. 



BRITISH. 



37 



which the island may have obtained compensa- 
tion, since it has been annexed to the British 
empire, for loss of the benefit which it derived 
from the incomes of the resident knights. 

It is well known, however, that of late years 
British squadrons have continued at anchor in 
this port during many successive months. The 
money laid out in the place by the officers and 
seamen, and expended in the supply of fresh pro- 
visions, is likely to amount, at such times, for each 
ship of the line, to between £1000 and £2000 a 
month, exclusive of the charge for repairs and 
the supply of stores. 

But, whatever may have been the effect, to 
contest the superior protection enjoyed under the 
present ruling power, can scarcely enter the ima- 
gination of one accustomed to judge from the 
evidence of his senses. Let him refer to a map 
of the island, and he will perceive the population 
huddled together within from half to two-thirds 
of its surface, and (where not bounded by preci- 
pitous heights or rugged shores) shut in by lines 
or works of defence, such as those at Marsasci- 
rocco, St. Julian's, Nasciar and elsewhere,— works 
now become useless, although they still continue 
to bound the generally inhabited part of the is- 
land, through the force of habit and the situation 
of the parish churches, This concentration was 

3 



38 



BRITISH. 



caused by the insecurity of the people. In the 
days of the Order, no inhabitant trusted himself 
to sleep on the coast unsecured by walls of de- 
fence, as the solitary mansions of Spinola and 
Selmoon, built in those times strong enough to 
repel a sudden attack of corsairs, fully attest ; but, 
under British protection, the marine villages of 
St. Julian and Sliema have sprung up, where the 
inhabitants enjoy the sea-breeze without dread 
of being dragged from their beds into slavery. 

The truth is, that, without the protection of a 
great maritime power, Malta must be constantly 
exposed to aggressions, which can only cease or 
become mitigated in proportion as they reduce 
her to poverty, and leave her an object of no temp- 
tation. The island is not naturally fertile but by 
the exertions of an industrious population aided by 
a genial climate it has been rendered highly pro- 
ductive, through the adequate protection enjoyed 
during the last three centuries. That it was flou- 
rishing under the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthagini- 
ans and Romans, the monumental remains would 
prove, if the fa-ct were not evident from the mari- 
time power of those nations combined with its 
. Table position; but during the middle ages, 
iete iie precarious sway of the Arabs, Normans 
id f eilians, the island fell to decay, and had 
ot recovered in 1530, when it was given over by 



BRITISH. 



39 



Charles V. to the knights, who found the place in 
a state of great destitution. This fact appears 
from the report of the commissioners who on that 
occasion were deputed by the knights to visit 
Malta. Among other remarks they observed : 
"The island is continually exposed to the rapacity 
and devastation of infidel corsairs, who, without 
any dread of the castle, freely enter both ports, 
and very often reduce to slavery a great number 
of poor Maltese." The population has been es- 
timated* to have consisted at this time of about 
25,000 souls in both islands, and to have increased 
to about 100,000 during the following 268 years 
of occupation by the Order. This advancement 
in population, and consequently in wealth, could 
not have proceeded, had it not been guarded by 
the maritime power of the knights, furnished as 
it was by the papal, and respected by the pro- 
testant states of Europe. Previously to their 
sway, the two principal harbours seem, by the 
extract just given, to have facilitated invasions 
rather than afforded defence, and an inner cove 
was selected for the sea-port; but the knights 
transferred their main position to the neglected 
site on which Valetta now stands between the 
two harbours, which in time became no longer 



* Ransijat, Journal duSiigeet Blocus de Malte, p. 294, 



40 



BRITTSH. 



disproportioned to the extent of her commerce 
and publie establishments. 

Nevertheless, the protection of the Order, su- 
perior as it was to any thing previously enjoyed 
by the Maltese, was not of a nature, through its 
continued course of warfare with piratical states, 
to advance them far as a maritime people. Not- 
withstanding the advantageous position of the 
island, in the channel dividing the eastern from 
the western portion of the Mediterranean , inse- 
curity against depredators at sea originally forced 
the Maltese to become a rustic rather than a 
maritime people. It is remarkable, even at the 
present day, how much the rural prevails over 
the maritime in the features of the place; and 
equally so that the Maltese should not compete, 
with the success that might be expected, with 
others engaged in the carrying trade of the Me- 
diterranean, while they enjoy a protection more 
efficient both at sea and on shore than history 
records. Under the knights, the people felt se- 
cure, considered as a single body, like a garrison 
confidently sustaining a siege, whose killed, 
w r ounded and captured are not of sufficient num- 
ber to effect a marked impression upon the gen- 
eral features of the place; but under the superior 
maritime power of Great Britain, that security is 
felt by each individual in his own person. 



BRITISH. 41 

That there is still much room for improvement 
in the condition of the lower classes here, and 
great distress prevailing among them, is too evi- 
dent; but whatever may now be the extent of 
misery, it may be confidently affirmed to be less 
than it was in the time of the knights, if we mere- 
ly consider the greater proportion of wheaten 
bread at present consumed within both islands. 
During the last years of the Order, the annual 
consumption of foreign wheat was about 43,000 
salms or quarters by 100,000 inhabitants: at 
present it averages about 57,000 among 115,000 
souls; giving for each individual 3.96 bushels 
now, against 3.44 formerly, exclusive of the con- 
sumption from the native harvest, which cannot 
be less at the present day. As regards their future 
welfare, let us hope that, as the Maltese are an 
industrious people, who for their honesty, sobrie- 
ty and other excellent qualities will bear a com- 
parison with any nation upon earth, means may 
be devised for mitigating the distress which 
many of them continue to suffer through poverty. 
The charitable disposition of the wealthier class- 
es of Maltese is too well known to require being 
pointed out; but it may be remarked that an ex- 
tensive field still remains open to their benevo- 
lent exertion, by their uniting for the formation 
of some well concerted plan, adapted to improve 

*3 



42 



BRITISH. 



permanently the condition of the lower orders of 
their fellow countrymen. 

According to a statement extracted from the 
documents of the Land-Revenue Office, it is seen 
that between September 1800 and December 
1829 the civil services of these islands were sup- 
plied out of the revenues of the United Kingdom 
with no less an aid than the net amount of 
£668,666 7s. 2d. sterling/ 

These remarks conclude the comparison be^ 
tween the expenditure of the Order and that of 
the United Kingdom, as defrayed in Malta. The 
civil finances of the island under the British Go- 
vernment for the last two years is as follows: in 
1836 the revenue was £95,392 8 10$, the ex- 
penditure £89,224 10 3-J-; and in 1837 the income 
was £103,142 1 4, and the total expenditure 
£97,497 1 6§i The chief part of the revenue 
is derived from maritime and judicial duties and 
dues, and the proceeds of landed rents belonging 
to the English crown; the interior taxes on the 
island last year amounted only to £2,858 16 3-^ 
The surplus revenue is paid over into the Mi- 
litary chest towards defraying the expenses of 
the Malta Fencible Regiment. 

* For the foregoing account of the finances of Malta 
tinder the Government of the Order of St. John of Je- 
rusalem I am indebted to W. Thornton, Esq. by whose 
kindness 1 am permitted to extract several paragraph* 



BRITISH. 



43 



Since Malta has been under the dominion of 
England, the inhabitants have enjoyed all the 
rights and privileges of British subjects* Until 
very recently, the direction of all public affairs 
was vested in the hands of the governor, who is 
appointed to the office by the Home Government, 
and usually holds the rank of General in the ar- 
my. In 1835, His late Majesty, William IV. was 
graciously pleased to appoint a Council within 
these his possessions, to advise and assist in the 
administration of the government thereof; which 
Council at present consists of six persons,* ex- 
clusive of the Governor, three of whom must at 
all times be persons holding offices within thi3 
island or its dependencies, and the remaining 
Members persons not holding offices. The Se- 
nior Officer in command of Her Majesty's land 
forces in Malta, the Honourable Chief Justice, and 
the Chief Secretary to Government are the three 
official Members as aforesaid. The three unoffi- 
cial Members are elected by His Excellency the 

from his valuable work on the subject, printed at the 
Government Press 1836, to which I refer the reader for 
the calculation of those statements, which for the sake 
of brevity I have assumed. 

* It was intended originally that this Council should 
consist of seven persons beside the Governor, including 
the Romish Archbishop of the island ; but this prelate, 
not being permitted by the Pope to take the required 
oath, has resigned his seat. 



44 



BRITISH. 



Governor, two from out of the chief landed pro- 
prietors and merchants of the island, being Her 
Majesty's native-born subjects, and the third from 
out of the principal merchants being British-born 
subjects, who must have been actually resident 
for a period of not less than two years. 

The Members of this Her Majesty's Council 
enjoy the freedom of debate and vote, in all af- 
fairs of public concern that may be brought un- 
der their consideration in Council; and, whilst 
Members, are authorized to assume the adjunc- 
tive title of Honourable. 

This court must be considered, in every respect, 
as a gracious concession on the part of the Bri- 
tish government, which accords to all her pos- 
sessions the benefits of her free and liberal con- 
stitution. It, however, does not come up with 
the wishes of the people. They desire to have 
a National Parliament, or Consiglio Popolare, 
elected by themselves, which shall have entire di- 
rection of the public affairs; and to obtain w T hich 
they have made all possible exertions. To say 
nothing of the inconsistency which there would 
be in the establishment of such an assembly with 
our present constitution, and the universal mode 
in which England has treated her colonies, the 
smallness of the territory, and the general un- 
fitness of the inhabitants, at present, to govern 



BRITISH. 



45 



themselves, which they have never done, would 
be a sufficient reason for their request to be denied. 

Within the last two years, a Commission of 
Special Inquiry was appointed by parliament to 
examine into the affairs of the island, consisting* 
of two eminent gentlemen, who resided here for 
about eighteen months ; during which time a few 
alterations were made in the local administration. 
So far, the best result of their efforts may be 
seen in the plans which are now about being 
brought into execution, for the wider spread of 
education among the people. To the Normal 
schools, which were established in Valetta and 
Senglea, several others have been added in the 
country, in which a great number of children have 
commenced a course of instruction; and some 
improvements are contemplated in the University. 
The prohibition against private presses has been 
abolished ; though all publications must still un- 
dergo a censorship from government. In con- 
sequence of this, several printing offices have 
been opened, and no less than five papers* are at 
present published, and circulated in the island. 

* The Harlequin, published twice a week in English; 
the Portafoglio and Mediterraneo, two weekly papers, 
the former in Italian, the latter in Italian and English ; 
the Spettatore Imparziale and the Ape Melitense, two 
monthly publications written entirely in Italian, 

Besides the above, the. Malta Government Gazette 
■still continues to be issued every Wednesday. 

**3 



46 



BRITISH. 



The entire freedom of the press has been anxious- 
ly expected by the people, for some months past \ 
and we understand that the delay is occasioned in 
drawing up the laws and regulations by which it 
is to be governed. V/ e sincerely hope, that these 
circumstances will lead to the welfare and ad- 
vancement of the people, in moral as well as 
intellectual cultivation. 

Several other alterations of minor importance 
have been made, which do not merit a place in 
this brief account of the principal changes which 
have taken place in this island, under the va- 
rious governments to which it has been subject. 
In the progress of this work, remarks will be 
made upon the condition of the people, the ad- 
ministration of justice, and the v arious institu- 
tions at present existing, which will throw light 
upon the whole state of public affairs as they 
now stand. 



PART It 



GENERAL 

DESCRIPTION OF MALTA. 



DESCRIPTION OF MALTA, 



TOGETHER WITH A BRIEF OUTLINE OF IT8 PRODUC- 
TIONS, CLIMATE, LANGUAGE, &C. 



Geographical situation and features of the island, 

Malta, in respect to its situation, is farther 
distant from the mainland than any other island 
in the Mediterranean. It lies in 35° 50' of north 
latitude, and 14° 12' east longitude from Green- 
wich. It is 60 miles distant from the nearest 
point of Sicily, which bounds it on its north be- 
tween Capo Passero and Camarano ; 190 miles 
from Cape Spartivento, the nearest point of the 
mainland of Italy, and 200 from Calipia, the 
nearest point of Africa; so that by its position, 
it may claim to be an island appertaining to 



50 GENERAL FEATURES OF THE ISLAND. 

Europe. It is about 60 miles in circumference; 
its greatest width is twelve, and length twenty. 
Its longest day is 14 hours, 52£ minutes. 

The two chief ports of the island are divided 
by the oblong peninsula on which the town of 
Valetta is built. The Grand Harbour, which is 
to the east, is about a mile and a half iri length, 
and less than three quarters of a mile in width at 
the mouth. This again contains several conve- 
nient creeks or small bays, where even large 
vessels of war may ride safely at anchor. The 
entrance into this harbour is defended by the 
forts St. Elmo, Ricasoli, and the castle St. An- 
gelo, so that a forcible landing from this quarter 
would be next to impossible, if the above fort- 
resses were properly supplied with men and am- 
munition. The harbour to the west, called Marsa 
muscetto,* is destined for vessels arriving from 
places not in free pratique. Here they are obli- 
ged to perform their quarantine, and hence called 
also the Quarantine Harbour. This latter is also 
defended by Fort St. Elmo on the one side, and 
Fort Tigne on the other. The Fort Manoel, 
which is built on a small island within the 
harbour, is also intended to act upon its en- 
trance in case of attack. 



• Marsa, is an Arabic word signifying a place for 
anchorage, a harbour. 



GENERAL FEATURES OP THE ISLAND. 51 

Besides the harbours above mentioned, there 
are several others in different parts of the island. 
The principal of these are Marsa Scala, Mar- 
f sa Scirocco, and St. Thomas's bay on the 
I south-east, and the Bay of St. Paul, St. Julian 
I and Melleha on the nort west. Each of these is 
defended by a small fort, garrisoned at present 
'■ by a detachment of the Malta Fencibles. Besides 
these forts, there are several others built round 
the coast, in order to prevent smuggling, and to 
give the alarm in case of the appearance of an 
enemy off the island. 

Most of the southern coast of the island is by 
nature inaccessible. The rocks, which rise up per- 
pendicularly from the sea to the height of three 
hundred feet, form a natural fortiBcation it would 
be impossible to destroy. From the general bro- 
ken and rugged appearance of many parts of the 
shore, especially in this quarter, it is very probable 
that at some distant period the island underwent 
several extraordinary convulsions of nature; but 
the occasion of such an event is probably beyond 
the reach of history or tradition. The other 
divisions of the coast are low and rocky, and 
present a very barren appearance. > 



52 



FERTILITY AND PRODUCTION'S. 



Soil — Cultivation— Industry of the inhabitants — Corn — 
Cotton — Clover — Fruits — Figs— Singular process in 
cultivation of— -Supply of water — Cattle— -Fowl- 
Birds— Fish, 

Notwithstanding the stony soil of Malta the 
culture which is bestowed upon it renders it 
very fertile. The mould is not remarkably rich 
nor very deep in any part of the island. On 
many of the hills and rising grounds the fields 
are enclosed with stone walls, built up so as to 
form terraces, in order to prevent the heavy rains 
of winter from washing away the soil, and pre- 
venting the cattle from entering them. These 
walls, which are formed of the broken stones 
from the quarries of the island, give the country 
a very monotonous appearance; while their 
bright colour reflects back the rays of the sun 
in summer, and renders the heat much more 
powerful. 

The chief productions of the island are corn 
and cotton. In some parts the land yields 40 and 
even 60 to one of the former, while in others not 
more than from 12 to 25. This fertility must 
be attributed as well to the industry of the Mal- 
tese farmers, as to the natural richness of the 



FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 53 

soil. Indeed, the industry of the country people 
in cultivating their little island is surprising. The 
land is never permitted to rest, but is laboured 
and sown year after year without intermission. 
Wheat is sown every alternate year with barley 
and clover about the month of November ; the 
harvest commences in June. The barley is ga- 
thered about the month of May. After this crop , 
the fields are sown with cotton, melons, cummin, 
sesam, and other seeds. By this process, the land 
is not exhausted, and should it appear to be get- 
ting poor, instead of barley, peas, beans, Indian- 
corn and other leguminous plants are substituted. 

The cotton of Malta is of a very fine quality, 
and forms the chief article of export. It is of two 
kinds, distinguished by their colours, one being 
white, and the other of a dark nankeen colour. 
This plant is sown about the end of May, and 
gathered in the early part of September when the 
rains begin. In the year 1801, the value of raw 
cotton produced in these islands amounted to 
about half a million sterling. From various 
causes, however, especially the new discoveries 
of machinery for preparing this article, and the 
abundant supplies from Egypt, from whence it 
can be procured at a cheaper rate, the value of 
late years has diminished one half. The seed of 



54 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 

this plant is used by the inhabitants for fatten- 
ing their cattle, and I remarked that the same 
custom prevailed in the east, it being the 
chief food which the Arabs of Syria and Palestine 
give to their camels. 

A fine species of clover, called by Linnaeus 
hedysarum coronarvim with a red flower, is very 
abundantly produced in this island during the 
rainy season. The appearance of the fields when 
this plant is in blossom is really delightful. It 
grows to the height of from four to five feet, and 
forms green forage for horses, mules, &c. in win- 
ter, and what remains is put up and dried to be 
used as hay in summer. The other provender 
given to cattle is barley and carobs; both which 
are raised in the island, but not in sufficient 
quantity for the consumption. The carob or 
iocust abounds here, and is one of the few trees 
which are green all the year round. It is 
found scattered about the country, and grows 
in the most stony and rocky soil. Many of the 
poorer classes use this fruit as an article of food, 
a od when baked in the oven possesses by no 
means a disagreeable flavour. It is quite com- 
mon in the country for the traveller to be an- 
noyed by children who hold out their hands 
begging for Habba Harroob, a grain to buy lo- 
cust with. 



FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 55 

Besides the above, Malta affords a great abun- 
dance of vegetables and fruits. In fact, it would 
be a surprising sight for a stranger to stand with- 
out the gates of Port des Bombes, before sun-rise 
during the fruit season, and see the numerous 
carts laden with rich supplies of the above arti- 
cles waiting for admittance into the city. 

The market, at this time, is well stocked with 
strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples, 
pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, me- 
lons and prickly-pears, which are sold at very low 
prices, and upon which many of the poorer class- 
es, who are unable to purchase other food, chiefly 
subsist. The oranges of Malta are justly prized 
for their excellent quality; and the great quan- 
tities which are exported to England and other 
countries shews the esteem in which they are 
held abroad. The season continues for upwards 
of five months, from November to April, during 
which time these beautiful trees are covered with 
abundance of fruit. The egg and blood oranges 
are considered the most superior. The latter has 
been produced, according to some, by ingrafting 
the common orange-bud on a pomegranate stock; 
but this opinion is quite unnatural, and requires 
evidence to sustain it. The grapes also are ex- 
cellent, but the island does not produce more 
than sufficient for its own consumption, The 

4 



56 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 

first fig, which is called baitra ta San Juan, or 
St. John's fig, because it is generally ripe about 
the anniversary of the feast of that apostle, is of 
a large size, much larger than I ever met with in 
any part of the East. About the latter end of 
July, three other kinds appear, of a smaller size, 
but of a more delicious flavour; one of these is 
white, and the other two are of a black or dark 
purple colour called by the natives farketsdn and 
parsott. A little later, a second crop from the 
tree of the first large fig is ripe; but this is of an 
inferior quality, and not held in much esteem. 

A peculiar process in the treatment of this 
fruit is worthy of remark; and the necessity of its 
adoption in some countries, to the exclusion of 
others, is a question which the curious may find 
it interesting to determine. When the figs are 
advancing towards maturity, in order to prevent 
their falling off, and to hasten the ripening, a 
cluster of male figs is suspended upon the bran- 
ches of the female tree, by means of a plant ( Am- 
mi majus) called on this account Dakra, which 
effectually secures them from the danger, and 
soon effects the desired end. The male tree is 
called by the natives dokkdra; and as many 
small winged insects are generally found in the 
fruit upon opening, it is the firm belief of the 
country people that the tree generates them. 1 



FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 57 

have heard several opinions advanced on the sub- 
ject, but the most rational way of accounting for 
it, is that these small flies, which abound about 
all kinds of fruit trees, entering into the male 
fig, get clothed with the pollen with which the 
stamina on the inside are covered, and, carrying 
it with them into the female fig, produce that 
natural coalition which is necessary for the effec- 
tual generation of fruit. 

Attempts were made during the government 
of Sir Fred. Cavendish Ponsonby to cultivate the 
cochineal in these islands; but the attempt failed, 
as the climate was not found to be favourable. 
More recently, also, much has been done in re- 
gard to the rearing of silk-worms, for which nu- 
merous trees were planted during the govern- 
ment of the late Marquis of Hastings; but, al- 
though the silk produced was of an excellent 
quality, it was found that the trade would not 
turn to profit, as the worms did not thrive, and 
has therefore lately been abandoned. 

The land is supplied with water by the various 
wells and springs which are found on the island. 
Of the latter there are a great many, besides nu- 
merous cisterns in almost every field throughout 
the country. These together with the light dews 
which fall during the spring and summer months 
are sufficient to render the ground fertile and 



58 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 

abundant, because the soil, being very shallow, 
is soon moistened through; and as the rock below 
is of^ soft porous nature, it retains what is 
over and thus keeps the roots perpetually moist. 
Were this not the case, there would be no crops 
at all in summer, the heat of the sun being so ex- 
ceedingly violent. 

In regard to cattle, the greater part for the 
consumption of the island is brought over from 
the Barbary States, Oxen, especially, are import- 
ed from that quarter, and after being fed here 
for a short time yield very excellent beef. The 
mutton is less valued, as it is much poorer on 
account of the little pasture there is for cattle in 
the country. The sheep, however, are very pro- 
lific, often bringing forth four lambs, and scarcely 
ever less than two. The goats are of a superior 
quality, very large, and yielding abundance of 
milk. It is the custom for the milk-man to lead 
about his goats in the morning and evening 
through the streets, in order to serve any who 
may call for him; he then kneels down at the 
door, and milks the animal before the customer. 
The milk of the sheep is used particularly for 
making curd; and in Gozo, a very pleasant kind 
of fresh cheese, with which it supplies our island, 
is produced from the same. 

The asses and mules of Malta and Gozo are 



FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS, 59 

very remarkable for their extraordinary size and 
the symmetry of their shape. These animals 
form the chief vehicles for carrying burdens 
and for draught, and not unfrequently are seen 
yoked with oxen engaged in treading out corn, 
The Maltese are in general very careful of their 
beasts, and take care to supply them with a suf- 
ficiency of food. 

The race of Maltese dogs, so much renowned 
in Europe, and called bichons by Buffon in his 
Natural History, is now nearly extinct. They are 
very small, with long glistening hair reaching 
down to the feet, a face covered with the same, 
and a turned-up nose. I acknowledge that I can 
see but very little beauty in these dwarfish crea- 
tures, and am led to think it is only their rarity 
which fixes their value at so high a price; they 
are sometimes sold for forty dollars. 

Fowls, turkies, ducks, geese, rabbits, and: other 
domestic birds and animals are always found in 
the market, though by no means of Sk superior 
quality. Game is less plentiful, except in the 
months of September and April, when there are 
generally a great many quails, which light upon 
t he island in their flight, and are not unfrequently 
caught by the hand. Wild duck, snipe, fig-peckers, 
woodcocks, plovers and doves form the chief 
game for sportsmen. 

*4 



60 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 

The harbour and the surrounding sea yield 
abundance of fish, of which there is seldom any 
want. Mullet, whitings, tunny, sword fish, eels 
and various others of the crustaceous genus, such 
as lobsters, crabs and shrimps are the principal 
supply of the market. Of the testaceous kind, 
oysters are found in great plenty, as also several 
species of the cardium or cockle, the venus, the 
tellina, and the patella, of which the natives are 
very fond. The phola dadylus, or sea-date, is 
also another species very much esteemed by the 
inhabitants. It is found in soft lime-stones ta- 
ken out of the sea, and in such quantities, that I 
have seen fifty extracted from a stone not more 
than a foot square. It is of two kinds, one with 
a brown and the other with a white shell; the 
the latter is very phosphoric. SignorTrapani,a 
Maltese gentleman, has lately published a very 
interesting catalogue in five languages of the fish 
to be met with at Malta. He numbers about 150 
different species. 

The argonauta argo, or Paper Nautilus, is 
sometimes found here, but I have never seen it to- 
gether with the animal. The shell is of the broad 
keel species. 



61 



BOTANY,* 

The indigenous plants of Malta, or such as grow 
spontaneously on these islands, are perhaps more 
numerous than might be expected, from the dry 
nature of the soil, and the small extent of uncul- 
tivated ground existing. Dr. Zerafa, in his 'Flo- 
rae Melitensis Thesaurus, ' enumerates 644 species 
of plants. Deducting from this number those 
which are cultivated, and adding the omissions, 
the whole number of indigenous plants may not 
perhaps be very far from 700. A great portion of 
them, as the situation will naturally lead to expect, 
are maritime plants, common to the coasts of the 
Mediterranean in general. Such, however, as re- 
quire a sandy beach, are comparatively few : as Po- 
lygonum maritimum, in St. George's bay; Cakile 
JEgyptiacum, in the bay of Mellieha; Euphorbia 
Peplis, E. Par alias, E. terracina, and Eryngium 
maritimum, at Mellieha and Gozo; Pancratium 
illyricum, Gozo. One of the most common mari- 
time plants of Malta, not mentioned by Dr. Zerafa, 

* For this interesting article on the Botanical produc- 
tions and rarities of M alta, I am indebted to my much 
esteemed friend Mr. P. Brenner, who has bestowed 
much attention to this branch of science, particularly as 
connected with this island. J believe, that were he to 
publish, all the information which he has collected on this 
delightful subject, it would be considered a3 a valuable 
acquisition by amateurs, 



62 



BOTANY. 



is the lowly Crucianella maritima, which blossoms 
in May and June; the strong aromatic perfume 
of the flowers of this plant after sunset, betrays 
it at a distance. On the rocks, especially of the 
southern coast, are particularly to be noticed, Hy- 
pericum JEgyptiacum, and Anthyllis Hermannice* 
Malta is remarkable for its richness in plants 
belonging to the natural order Papilionacece, the 
Diadelphia Decandria of Linnaeus. Of this, the 
genus Trifolium counts the greatest number of 
species, among which the most interesting ones 
are T. subterraneum and T. suffocatum; both not 
mentioned by Dr. Zerafa. Then the genuses 
Medicago, Melilotus, Lotus and Ononis. The ge- 
nus Euphorbia contains likewise a considerable 
number of species. Many different kinds of this- 
tles are met with in Malta, of which the most 
formidable in appearance is the wild artichoke, 
Cynara Cardunculus. Remarkable for its veno- 
mous quality is the stalkless Atractylis gummifera ; 
and the Carlina lanataiov its fine purple -coloured 
flowers. Among the family of the grasses, of 
which Malta contains a great variety, one of the 
rarest and most curious is Lygeum spartum, found 
at St. Paul's bay, Mtahleb, Fauuara, &c. With 
regard both to abundance and elegance, the Stipa 
torlilis, by Dr. Zerafa erroneously called Stipa 
pinnate, is conspicuous. Aromatical plants of 



BOTANY. 



63 



the natural class Labmtiflara, or Didynamia 
gymnospermia of Linnaeus, are but few here, as 
Mentha Pulegium, Melissa marifolia, Thymbra 
hirsuta. The flowers of the latter are said to give 
the Malta honey its peculiar flavour. The plants 
are gathered and brought into town in large bun- 
dles for fuel. 

Owing to the mildness of the climate, there is 
no intermission of vegetation all the year roimd, 
and consequently every month produces its pe- 
culiar flowers. The beginning of the vegetable 
year may justly be counted from the end of Oc- 
tober, when the first rains have begun to restore 
to the soil the verdure of winter and spring. The 
first and most prominent flower which then makes 
its appearance is the Ranunculus bullatus y whose 
broad leaves and fragrant yellow flowers adorn 
all the uncultivated ground during November 
and December. This is immediately succeded by 
the Bellis annua, the white little flowers of which 
are so abundant in December and January as to 
make the hills and way-sides appear as if covered 
with snow. Also its much taller sister Bellis syl- 
vestris is not unfrequently met with at that season. 
The chief ornament of spring, however, is the 
pretty purple flowered Silene ciliata, which in 
March intersperses the white groups of the Bellis, 
and gives the ground a most delightful vivacity. 

**4 



64 



BOTANY. 



March and April are the months in which ve~ 
getation is in its most luxuriant state. Various 
species of the natural classes Ensatae and Lilia- 
cece, or the class Hexandria of Linnaeus bedeck, 
the^fields and hills at this season ; as Asphodelus 
ramosus, Gladiolus communis, Iris sisyrinchium, 
Narcissus Tazetta, Hyacinthus comosus, Ornitho- 
galum Narbonense, and 0. Arabicum ; and in May 
several species of the interesting class Orchidece, 
The plants which blossom during the summer 
belong for the most part to the natural class 
Composite or Synyenesia superflua Linnsei, with 
yellow flowers, and are almost exclusively mari- 
time plants. For instance, in June and Julys 
Cineraria maritima, Centaur ea Melitensis, Ver- 
bascum undulatum, (cl. Labiatiflorae,) Cappark 
sativa (cl. Rhceadeae) attiring with its large fra- 
grant flowers the walls and rocks of the fortifica- 
tions ofValetta. In July and August: Inula crith- 
moides, Crithmum maritimum, (cl. Umbelliflo- 
rae.) In August and September: Inula foetida, 
Ambrosia maritima, Scilla maritima (cl, Iilia- 
cese) whose leaves appear in November and die 
away in May. In September and October : Inu- 
la viscosa, and Erigeron graveolens. A plant very 
common in Malta, but rare in Europe, is the mean 
looking Evax Pygmea, which blossoms in April, 

The following plants are confined to particular 



BOTANY. 



65 



spots, or are otherwise rare in Malta : Putoria ca- 
labrica, on a rock in the Uied el Asel ; Convolvulus 
Cneorum, near Casal Dingli; Convolvulus Can- 
tabrica, near Mtahleb; Cheiranthustricuspidatus, 
near Marsa Scirocco ; Teucrium Scordioides, Heli- 
anthemum Fumana, near Gezzuma; Hyacinthus 
romanus, at Fauuara, Mtahleb, and Mosta; Car- 
thamus coernleus, at Mtahleb. On the rocks over- 
hanging the Fauuara a plant grows plenteously 
which Dr. Zerafa called Centaurea spathulata, 
and about which some remarks may be found in 
the Malta Government Gazette of Feb. 20, 1833. 
On closer examination, however, it appears that 
it is no Centaurea. Several German Professors 
of botany who examined dried specimens did not 
recognise the plant. It may perhaps finally be 
made out to be a new genus. In Gozo, the so 
called General's or Fungus rock, is peculiarly re- 
markable for various plants not found in other 
parts of Malta and Gozo. Besides the well known 
Cynamorium coccineum, commonly called Fungus 
Melitensis, which blossoms in April and May, 
there is the Cheiranthus sinuatus, Daucus gummi- 
ferus, Gnaphalium ambiguum, and several others. 
A great variety of sea- weeds are also to be found 
along the rocky shore. 



66 



CLIMATE. 

State of Thermometer — Sudden changes of temperature 
— Summer heat — South wind — Scirocco — Beauty 
of evening shy — Winter — Thunder, 

The climate of Malta has been variously des- 
cribed by persons, who perhaps were influenced 
by the particular effects it produced on their in- 
dividual constitutions. This, though yery natural, 
is an unfair way of deciding the general nature 
of the climate of any country. The freedom of 
the island from any endemic disease, the ordi- 
nary good health enjoyed by the natives, by the 
English, as also by foreigners resident here, 
and the actual state of the weather throughout 
the year, go very far towards establishing the 
salubrious nature of the atmosphere. 

During the summer months the thermometer 
generally shifts from 80° to 88° of Fahrenheit, 
and towards the end of October sinks to 70°. 
From this time it gradually decreases until Ja- 
nuary, when it varies from 55° to 50°, below which 
it seldom falls, and again rises about the end of 
February to 60°. From March to May it ge- 
nerally ascends to 70°, and continues advancing 
until the latter end of June when the summer sets 



CLIMATE. 



67 



in. This range continues from one year to an- 
other without arty important variation. 

The time, however, in which one is most af- 
fected by the heat or cold, is not that which 
marks their extremes on the thermometer. That 
there is an almost continual contrast between our 
sensations and the instruments which measure 
the true temperature of the air, between sensible 
and real heat and cold, any person who has re- 
sided in Malta for a few years will have disco- 
vered. The heat is sometimes very oppressive 
when the thermometer is comparatively low; 
and the same remark holds good in regard to 
the cold in winter, when it is comparatively high. 
This may be attributed to the direction of the 
winds, their sudden changes producing a less or 
greater degree of heat or cold according to the 
quarter from whence they blow, and their vio- 
lence modifying the sensations which they cause 
us to feel. The wind from the north and north- 
west always brings freshness, while that which 
blows from the south produces an increase in 
the heat. 

Rainhasbeen known to fall in summer, but is 
of very rare occurrence. The heat, however, is ge- 
nerally tempered by the north and north-west- 
erly winds, which prevail during the hot months, 
and which render the evenings delightfully 



68 



CLIMATE. 



pleasant. Though there are sometimes heavy 
falls of dew during this season, the natives do not 
find it injurious to sleep out in the open air, which 
is quite customary with many of the poorer class- 
es, without any bed or covering. When the south 
wind prevails in summer, the heat is very oppress- 
ive; the atmosphere assumes a hazy appearance, 
the air has sometimes a disagreeable odour, and 
its effects on furniture and book-covers, which it 
cracks and warps, are very destructive. After 
this wind has lasted for a day or two, the air 
becomes quite still and confined, and the sensa- 
tion felt is exceedingly uncomfortable. It is well 
that this state never continues for more than three 
or four successive days, and that it is not of fre- 
quent occurrence. This wind, which passes over 
the arid plains of Africa, is not purified from the 
currupt miasma which it contains by crossing the 
sea, as the straits are so narrow between this is- 
land and that continent. 

The wind, which has procured a bad name for 
Malta by foreigners, is the south-east, usually 
called the Scirocco. It is most prevalent in Sep- 
tember, yet unfortunately is not confined to this 
month alone, but occurs occasionally through- 
out the year. Persons with diseased lungs suf- 
fer more or less from its consequences; and 
hence Malta is by no means a healthy place 



f 

CLIMATE. 69 

for such as are inclined to consumption. Stran- 
gers, in general, are affected during the prevalence 
of the Sirocco with great lassitude and debility, 
w hich indisposes the system, and renders it liable 
to suffer from dyspepsia. The natives, however, 
seldom complain of its bad effects on their con- 
stitutions, but more of the inconveniences which it 
brings to workmen and mechanics. Any thing 
painted when this wind blows will never set well, 
glue loses much of its adhesive property, bright 
metals become tarnished, and from the dampness 
of the atmosphere the pavement of the streets 
is sometimes quite wet. Though this wind has 
occasionally held out for a week together, it 
seldom lasts more than three days successively. 

The delightful appearance of the evening sky 
during summer is a phenomenon in the climate of 
Malta which deserves mentioning. A little before 
sun-set, and during the interval which elapses be- 
tween that and dark, the whole western horizon 
exhibits a beautiful yellow, tinged with a variety 
of hues, which is truly grand. It is not uncom- 
mon for light clouds to intermingle in the scene, 
and occasionally rapid flashes of lightning to con- 
tinue for several hours together, which, shining 
beneath the clouds, whose dark edges become 
more plain from the bright glare imparted to 
them, add an increasing grandeur to the prospect. 



70 



CLIMATE. 



Perhaps this sight is not exceeded in magnificence 
by any appearance in the atmosphere, except the 
Aurora Borealis of the North. 

The winter of Malta is very temperate, though 
the cold is sometimes exceedingly penetrating. 
This proceeds from the north wind, which is very 
prevalent during this season, and by the continued 
motion which it communicates to the air, inces- 
santly renews the volume of it by which we are 
surrounded, and causes a sensation of cold which 
is very acute. That this is the case is proved 
from the fact, that upon removing from its action, 
the effects are immediately diminished. The 
north-east wind, known by the name of Gregale, 
which blows directly into the mouth of the har- 
bour, has occasionally been sufficiently strong to 
drive a first rate man-of-war from her moorings. 
These gales sometimes come on so suddenly, that 
time is not given to make any provision against 
them; and consequently it is not an uncommon 
occurrence for vessels lying at anchor to be injured 
by the violence of the storm, although the har- 
bour is one of the safest in the Mediterranean. 

Rain falls very plenteously here in winter, and 
occasionally hail, but snow never. Very rarely 
does the rain continue for several days in success- 
ion, and it is quite common to enjoy delightful 
clear weather in the coldest season. Storms are 



CLIMATE AND POPULATION. 71 

not frequent, and then not very violent, although 
there is in general much thunder during the 
winter. In eases when the claps are of long 
duration, and are known by their sound to be in 
the vicinity of the island, all the bells of the 
churches are made to ring. This, however, is 
generally delayed until the clouds containing the 
electrical fluid are in the zenith, from which, as 
it is natural to expect, they soon pass away and 
with them the lightning and its consequencss. 
This natural phenomenon is attributed by many 
of the superstitious natives to the holy character 
of the bells, which on account of being baptized, 
they imagine that their noise must certainly have 
some prevalence with Him who "rides upon the 
wings of the wind, and holds the lightnings in his 
fists." 



POPULATION- 

Number of— Impoverished state of — Causes of the fore- 
going: Improvidence of the people — Want of educa- 
tion — Bad system of teaching Mechanics — Ab- 
sence of a spirit of enterprise in the gentry, — Cha- 
racter of the people by a Spanish author. 

The island of Malta for its size contains a den- 
ser population than any other part of the habitable 
globe. Allowing 30,000 for Valetta, and Floriana, 

# **4 



72 



POPULATION. 



it is calculated that the whole number of inhabi- 
tants amounts to 120,000 not including Gozo, 
which is reckoned at 18,000 more. According to 
this statement, it appears, that upon a given 
space of ground where England contains 152 
souls, Malta contains nearly eight times the num- 
ber. The assurance of an easy subsistence is in 
general considered the most natural cause for the 
increase of the population of any country; but* 
in the present case, I do not think the axiom will 
hold good. Notwithstanding what has been said 
concerning the fertility of this island, it is after all 
only a rock, and incapable from its size to afford 
adequate means of support to so crowded a po- 
pulation. In these two facts, the disproportion- 
ate number of inhabitants to the extent of soil 
possessed, we must look for the cause of the pre- 
sent impoverished state of the island. It is true 
that the lack of the produce of a country may be 
compensated by manufactures and commerce; 
but of the former Malta has no resources, and her 
commerce, spite of every attempt to increase it, 
remains stationary, and has certainly very ma- 
terially failed during the last twenty or thirty 
years. In this respect, however, it is not alone; 
a general torpor has seized the trading world in 
in this quarter for some time back, the several 



POPULATION. 



73 



causes of which I do not intend, as I am unable 
to explain. 

In the report of the late Commissioners sent 
out to inquire into the grievances of the Maltese, 
they state the cause of the impoverished condition 
of the island to arise from "the improvidence of the 
people in multiplying their numbers beyond the 
demand for their labour." Nothing can be more 
true than this fact ; no sooner does a lad arrive 
at the state of puberty, than he begins to think 
of marriage before he has made any provision at 
all for maintaining a family. The present sys- 
tem of endowing females is the cause of the most 
distressing consequences, as in numerous cases 
it is the only attraction which a young woman has 
for an individual who seeks her as his wife. How- 
ever small the sum may be, very few are chosen 
but such as have something. This, when once 
in the hands of an idler, is soon spent in some 
hazardous project or speculation, if not in vice; 
and when he finds he can procure no more, either 
from his wife or her relations, he leaves her to 
her fate, either to be again received under her 
parents' roof, or to seek a living for herself and 
family in the best way she can* This is not an 
exaggerated picture of very many cases in Malta; 
and besides this, if the computation were made of 
the number of females at present on the island, 

5 



74 



POPULATION, 



whose husbands have left them for a foreign land, 
I believe it would not fail to astonish. 

To the above, however, we may add the want 
of education, as another cause of the poverty of 
the island. The overplus population which finds 
an asylum in the Barbary States, in Egypt, 
Syria, and in Turkey, are chiefly of one class, 
consisting almost exclusively of labourers who 
have already more than satisfied the demand for 
their work, and are, consequently, many of them, 
even in a worse state than their poor countrymen 
at home. Were the case different, were those 
who emigrated from the island capable of under- 
taking different branches of labour, both of a 
scientific as well as of a mechanical nature, there 
would be an increasing request for their services, 
as there would be more numerous situations 
which they would be able to fill. 

Here perhaps it will not be out of place to 
mention the very bad system of training up trades- 
men and artisans which exists at Malta; as this 
also, in connection with education, must have a 
very important bearing upon the interests of a ; 
nation. Here, a lad is put into a mechanic's shop 
by his parents, without any kind of agreement 
how long he is to continue at his business, or with- i I 
out any particular requisition from the master he 
is about to serve. It is commonly understood, 



POPULATION. 



75 



that the boy is to learn the trade in the best way 
he can. There being no law on the subject, the 
apprentice is at liberty to leave his master just 
when he pleases, which often happens before he 
half knows his business, and then endeavours to 
set up for himself. Every one will see that such 
a plan is attended with many disadvantages, and 
calculated to repress improvement in the impor- 
tant branch of labour, the mechanics. Such 
I tradesmen, also, emigrating from the island, can- 
not be expected to meet with that good fortune 
which they would do were they perfectly trained 
in their different branches of labour. It is to be 
regretted that something like our apprentice 
system has not yet been adopted in Malta; it is 
certainly much needed, and could not fail to be 
productive of good. 

Another cause for the poverty of the island lies 
in the entire want of a spirit of enterprise, so rele- f 
vant of the interests of the lower orders of society. 
Very few of those who possess property think of 
laying it out in some way so as to benefit their 
country; but choose rather to suffer it to lie by 
I at a sordid interest, or to rust in their coffers. 
Like the dog in the manger, they will not enjoy 
it themselves, nor suffer others to partake of it. 

It is worthy of remark, that the number of 
males in Malta is near equal to that of the females, 



76 



POPULATION. 



This destroys the false idea, generally received, 
that in warm climates more girls are born than 
boys; as it is also opposed to the state of the po- 
pulation in many of the northern and western 
countries of Europe. This would doubtless be 
the case universally, according to the analogy of 
nature, if various causes did not operate to destroy 
its course. The comparative little emigration 
which takes place in Malta, and the temperance 
of the male inhabitants contribute to maintain 
this regular law of our world. 

"The Maltese are in general of an ordinary 
stature, strong, robust, and of a brown comple- 
xion; one may easily recognise in their character 
the influence of the climate, and that mobility of 
sensation, gesture and features which characterize 
many people in the equinoxial regions of Africa. 
They are full of fire, and endowed with a pene- 
trating imagination; they possess very lively pas- 
sions, and are tenacious in their opinions, in their 
love and their hate. The action of a hot climate, 
beneath an almost continually serene sky, ren- 
ders their physical and moral character very 
expressive; they do not know how to conceal 
their real sentiments with the mask of convenien- 
cy ; insomuch that there can be no where found 
men less disguised, and whose character can 



LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 



77 



be more easily guessed by their physiognomy." 
D'Avalos Tom. i. p. 60, 61. 



LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 

Maltese language not derived from Phoenician — At- 
tempts to reduce the Maltese to writing — Present 
system of National Education — Inconsistency of— 
Backwardness of the general mass of the people. 

Notwithstanding the many attempts which 
have been made to refer the present Maltese dia- 
lect back to a Phoenician original, by producing 
a few words and phrases which are correspond- 
ing in signification in both languages, the basis 
upon which the hypothesis is formed is too weak 
to sustain it against the abundant proof to the 
contrary. We shall not dwell upon the almost 
necessary impossibility which there exists against 
our coming to any solid conclusion on the sub- 
ject, from our inadequate knowledge of the Punic 
toogue, but shall draw our inferences from the 
language itself as it exists at the present day,, 
which in its forms, phrases, construction and 
idiom proves it to be a dialect of the Arabic. 
We conceive, that if there are a few words which 
cannot now be referred back to this source, this 
fact does not destroy the abundant evidence 

*5 



78 LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 

-which may be brought forth in the whole body 
of the language. That there are such words, we 
admit; but that these have not become corrupted 
in their etymology and pronunciation, cannot be 
proved any more than they can be shown to be 
a part or parts of the ancient Phoenician. The 
vernacular Maltese comprehends the complete 
Arabic alphabet, with the exception of some of 
the dentals; and the distinctive sound of the guttu- 
rals has been preserved pure in many villages 
of the country, and in Gozo. In Valletta this is 
not the case; several of the gutturals have been 
dropped, and the whole dialect is more corrupt, 
being mixed up with a greater portion of foreign 
words, especially Italian. 

Several attempts have been successively made 
by different persons, within the last thirty years, 
to reduce the Maltese dialect to writing; but 
these efforts having been chiefly the effect of 
private exertion, without any support or counte- 
nance from the government or the people, have 
all failed, whatever may have been the compara- 
tive excellence of each plan adopted. This unset- 
tled state of things, in regard to language, has ope- 
rated very much to the prejudice of education 
among the people. All instruction being com- 
municated in the Italian, the Maltese child can- 
not begin his studies on a par with the children 



LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 79 

of other countries, because he must first learn a 
language entirely different from its own, as a 
means of acquiring the knowledge he seeks after. 
Under these discouraging circumstances, it is no 
small proof of the natural abilities of the Maltese, 
that many of them have by their talents and ac- 
quirements raised themselves to a distinguished 
rank in literature and science. While this state 
of things exists, however, there can be little hopes 
of the mass of the people making any very con- 
siderable progress in respect of education. The 
mother tongue is so implanted into their nature, 
that centuries must elapse, or some great change 
take place in the common order of things, before 
any attempt to eradicate the language of the 
people can be successful. 

Some small efforts are now making to intro- 
duce the Arabic as the chief medium of commu- 
nicating instruction in the government schools; 
and if the ultimate object of this plan should be 
energetically followed up, in a different manner 
there can be no doubt of its success. To say 
nothing of the advantages which would accrue 
to the Maltese should they be put into possess- 
ion of so extensive and useful a language as 
the Arabic, it is the mother language of their 
own, and consequently must be much easier for 
1 their acquirement than any of the western 

**5 

lit 



80 LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 

languages, which are entirely different in their 
whole construction. The present plan brought 
into use is briefly this : a new alphabet has been 
formed for the Maltese dialect, consisting of Ro- 
man and several Arabic letters, in which the child- 
ren are to be instructed so as to be capable of 
reading ; this then is to serye as a medium of 
studying the Italian, the English, and the Arabic ! 
This is not all, the language used is such a com- 
pound of distorted Arabic and Maltese terms and 
phrases, that it forms quite a new dialect, which 
without considerable instruction no Maltese can 
understand! ! Who will not at once see, that every 
attempt to instruct the generality of children, in 
so many different and opposite tongues, must be 
rendered futile. It is preposterous, to think of 
establishing any system for public education in 
which the instruction is to be communicated in 
no less than four languages. The time generally 
allowed for a child to remain at school will not 
even suffice to acquire a tolerable acquaintance 
with these; and when is he to make any progress 
in that useful knowledge which will make him a 
respectable and valuable member of society? If 
the Italian has obtained a partial footing in the 
town, it is an entire stranger in the country, and 
ought to be banished from the national system 
of education if it tends to increase the difficulties 



LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 81 

and inconveniences which exist without its addi- 
tion. If by the present plan the Arabic is pro- 
posed to be the general language of the people, 
why are they to be encumbered with another, 
which will be of little use in such a case? And why 
teach the Maltese language ? The dialect is al- 
ready corrupt, and every effort to systematize it 
must be calculated to fix it more deeply in the 
minds of the children, when on the contrary, en- 
deavours ought to be made at the outset for im- 
proving and bringing it up to the standard of that 
language which is to be made the general lan- 
guage of the country. To do this in Malta 
would not be attended with much more difficulty 
than in Syria, Egypt or Barbary, where the written 
language is the classical Arabic, but the colloquial 
dialect, in many respects, not better than the 
Maltese. It is to be hoped that the present plan 
will be reformed before being carried to any con- 
siderable extent. 

The above circumstances have had their influ- 
ence in restraining the progress of education a- 
mong the people, which, generally speaking, is 
at a low ebb. In many of the country villages, 
all the learning which exists is confined to the 
clergy, very few besides being able to read or 
write. In the town, besides the University there 
is a Normal school for boys and girls, containing 



82 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 



upwards of 500 children, and several others kept 
by private individuals. Very lately, also, by the 
zealous and praiseworthy efforts of Mrs. Austin, 
the lady of one of Her Majesty's Commissioners 
for Special Enquiry, four district schools have 
been formed in the country, which is to be hoped 
will be continued and be successful. Consider- 
ing the scanty means which the people enjoy of 
obtaining an education, we cannot wonder at their 
backward state, though we by no means intend 
to apply this remark universally; for, as we have 
said before, there are not a few among the Mal- 
tese who distinguish themselves by their literary 
attainments. 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 

Native musical instruments — Poetical compositions — 
Songs — Maltese Proverbs, fyc. 

The Maltese are not very rich in native musical 
instruments; and in their choice seem to have 
preferred such as are more noisy with the inha- 
bitants of Arabia, than such as are more soft 
with the Arabs of northern Africa. Even these, 
however, are getting into disuse, and their place 
is being supplied by companies of blind fiddlers 
who are found almost in every village, and whose 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 



S3 



performances, if exhibited within the hearing of a 
man acquainted with the science, would certainly 
put him into a position to serve as an exact coun- 
terpart of Hogarth's Enraged Musician. The 
tambarine, a species of bag pipe, the kettle-drum, 
a hollow tube about half a foot in diameter with 
a distended skin over one surface, and a round 
stick tied to the centre of it which is rubbed up 
and down with the hand, causing a most monoto- 
nous sound, * and several different shaped lyres, 
with from two to four strings, — form the native 
band of the Maltese country people. Of the 
above, the bagpipe or zaqq, as it is called, merits 
the most attention, as it is the most esteemed, 
This instrument is formed of an inflated dogskin, 
which is held under the left arm with the legs 
directed upwards, and having a mouth-piece by 
w T hich the skin is filled, and a flute or pipe played 
with both hands affixed to it. This instrument 
is generally accompanied by the tambarine and 
a dancing company, who move their bodies in 
graceful evolutions or ridiculous gestures to the 
sound of the duet. The accompanying sketch 
may convey some better idea of this rustic amuse- 
ment. 

The Maltese have the peculiar talent for poetry 

j * This instrument is called by the natives rabbdba or 
zuvzava. 



84 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 

which is natural to all those nations who speak 
the Arabic language. The taste for this kind of 
composition has very much degenerated in the 
cities, but in the country it is met with in its ori- 
ginal purity of style and expression. I have often 
stood and listened to individuals seated upon two 
opposite trees, or engaged in some kind of labour, 
singing answers to each other in rhyme, without 
any previous meditation. This the natives call 
taqbeel. The subjects vary according to circum- 
stances, sometimes partaking of the nature of epic 
poetry, and sometimes of satire upon the faults 
or character of each. The tunes set to these are 
in general somewhat wild, as is the music of the 
Maltese in general, but a wildness which is not 
without its romantic beauty and harmony. In 
this respect, few will fail to admire the singing of 
the natives as they join in small companies, each 
taking a part, which they maintain throughout 
the whole performance. 

I here subjoin two songs for the amusement 
of the reader, with a rough English translation, 
in order that he may judge somewhat of the na- 
tive ideas in the composition of such amorous 
effusions. 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 



SONG. 

Hanina seyr insiefer, 
Ja hasra ma niehdoksh mighi, 
Lilek, Alia yatik es-sabar, 
U izommok fl'imhabba tighi, 

Izommok fl'imhabba tighi, 
Biesh deyyem tiftakar fiyya, 
Iftakar li yien habbeitek, 
Mindu kont chkeiken tarbiyya. 

Mindu kont chkeiken tarbiyya, 
Kalbi kolha ingibdet leik; — 
Bl'ebda daul ma nista nimshi, 
Ghair bid-daul ta sbieh ghaineik 

Bid-daul ta sbieh ghaineik, 
Yien meshsheit il passi tighi; — 
Hanina seyr nsiefer, 
Ja hasra ma niehdoksh mighi. 

Meta niftakar li yiena seyyer, 
Dad-dulur sh* yigini kbir; 
K' Alia irid, O hanina! 
Ghad tgaudini u ingaudiL . 



86 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 



Translation, 

Beloved, I'm about to leave you, 
1 sigh that I take you not with me, 
May God give you now resignation, 
And preserve you secure in uiy love.— 

And preserve you secure in my love, 
That you may ever remember me; — 
Remember, I always have loved you, 
Since the time I was but an infant. — 

Since the time I was but an infant, 

My heart has always been drawn after you; 

And I *can walk in no other light, 

But the light of your beautiful eyes. — 

In the light of your beautiful eyes, 
I have always directed my steps; — 
Beloved I'm going to leave you, 
I sigh that I take you not with me. — 

How sore does the pain come upon me, 
When I think I must soon depart; 
But if Heayen be propitious, my dear, 
We shall yet enjoy one another. 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 87 

The following verses, which were furnished me 
by a Maltese lady, I insert chiefly for the sake of 
giving the reader an idea of the manner in which 
matrimonial alliances are entered into by a por- 
tion of the town people. The four persons in- 
troduced in the song are, the young man, the 
hottdba, the mother of the young woman, and 
the young woman herself. In order to render 
the piece intelligible, it will be necessary to pre- 
mise, that it is not customary for a young man 
unacquainted with the lady with whom he has 
fallen in love, to declare his passion in person, nei- 
ther would he be allowed to enter into her pa- 
rents' house; but he employs a third, generally 
an old woman, who takes upon herself the office 
of endeavouring to bring about the match. This 
character is called a hottaba, and is always pos- 
sessed with an exquisite gift for flattery; a speci- 
men of which will be readily noticed in the song, 
I give a literal translation, in order better to pre- 
serve the native idiom and phraseology. 

song. 

Tridu tafu shbeiba sh' taghmel^ 
Min fil ghodu sa fil ghashia. 
Taghmel il bokli f rasha, 
U tokghodlok fil gallaria, 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 



Tokghodlok fil gallaria, 
Tibda taghmel in-namoor, 
Meta tara 1' ommha geyya, 
Tibda tkoffu il maktoor. 

II giuvni yibda tiela u niezel, 
Halli vara hem shi shieha, 
Yibda tiela min fuk s' isfel, 
Ghash mairidsh yibka bir-rieha , 

Intaka ma nanna shieha, 
Kallha; Mara tridsh takdini, 
Flusi ma nibzash ghalihom, 
Basta taghraf is-servini? 

Sinyura, donni uafek, 
Kont chkeikuna tokghod hdeyya, 
Kem erfaitek, kem habbeitek. 
Kem ghazziztek geu ideyya. 

Sinyura, donni nafek, 
Yidirli ghandek ish-shbeibiet, 
Ghash kont ghaddeyya min hara , 
Yidhirli raitha hdei il bieb. 

Sinyura gheidli sh' ghandek. 
Kem narak malinconata. 
Ara sh' kalu fuk binti, 
Illi g& binti namorata. 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING, 



Iskot, Sinyura, iskot, 
Jlsna ta nies tghid wisk shorti; 
Dika bintek tifla taiba, 
Min yihodha ikollu shorti. 

lnzel, binti, inzel, 
Hauna nanna trid tarak, 
Tinsab mara antica, 
Li b' kliemha tik-konsolak. 

Risposta yiena gibtlek, 
Ohra fees yiena irrid, 
Baghatni il mahbub ta kalbek, 
Li bil piena yinsab marid. 

Risposta inti gibtli, 
Ohra fees ma natiksh; 
Dana il giuvni ommi tafu, 
B' zeugi niehdu ma tridnish. 

Translation. 

Inti\ Would you know what a maiden does. 
From morning until evening? — 
She adorns her head with curls, 
And seats herself in the balcony. 

She seats herself in the balcony, 
And sets about making love ; 
When she sees her mother coming 
She begins hemming her handkerchief. 



90 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 

The young man walks up and down, 
To see if the old woman is there, 
He traverses (the street) from one end to the other, 
As he does not wish to remain with the smell.* 

He meets with an old grandmother, 
And says; "woman will you help me, 
I care nothing about money, 
So as that you are able to serve me?" 

( The bargain is struck, and the broker ess goes to the house 
of the young woman, and meets with the mother.) 

Hott. Madam, I think I know you, 

When quite little you lived near me, 
How oft I bore you, how much I lov'd you, 
How oft I fondled you in my arms. 

Madam, I think I know you, 

I think you have several maidens, 

For as ] was passing through the street, 

I saw one standing at the door. 

Madam, tell me what ails you, 
For you appear very melancholy? 
Moth Do you know what they say of my daughter, 
That she is already in love. 



* A Maltese idiom for expressing failure in an under- 
taking. 



MUSIC, POETRY, AND SIXGING. 91 

Hott. Be easy, Madam, be easy, 

People's tongues say many things; 
Your daughter is a good girl, 
Whoever takes her will gain a fortune. 

Moth. Come down, my daughter, come down, 
Here's a grandmother desires to see you, 
She is a very old woman, 
And with her words she will console you. 

( The daughter descends, and the oldwoynan addresses her. ) 

Hott. A message I have brought you, 
And wish one hastily in return, 
For the beloved of your heart has sent me, 
Who with pain is now quite ill. 

Daugt. A message you have brought me, 
A hasty answer I will not give, 
For my mother knows this young man, 
And will not have him for my husband. 

Besides the above, the Maltese have also a 
large number of proverbs, or adages in rhyme, 
many of which preserve their strict Arabic origin- 
al. These are still often used in conversation, 
but without any new additions, as the taste for 
such compositions has greatly degenerated since 
the introduction of the Italian language. The 
late Sig. Vassalli published a collection of these 

6 



92 



COSTUME. 



proverbs, some years ago, with an Italian transla- 
tion and explanatory notes, which, in the purity 
of their style and morals, their figurative and 
enigmatical forms, contain much of that good 
sense possessed by the forefathers of the Maltese. 
"The whole of these adages, maxims, sentences, 
aphorisms and phrases, which the natives have 
preserved from time immemorable, by uninter- 
rupted tradition, form a species of national code, 
sanctioned from time to time with the seal and 
authority of the events or experiences of this or 
that proverb, the truth of which is acknowledged 
as soon as uttered." 



COSTUME. 

Dress of the Males — Dress of the females of the city — 
Neatness of — Costume of the country-women. 

In regard to the male population, the Maltese 
have in general adopted the Frank costume; 
but the native dress, which is still worn to some 
extent by the lower class of people in the town, 
is somewhat dissimilar, though not very peculiar. 
The chief difference is in the cap, which resembles 
a long bag made of wool, hanging dpwn behind, 
and dyed with various colours. This article of- 
ten forms a receptacle for small articles which 
the wearer wishes to carry about with him, and 



COSTUME. 



93 



sometimes serves all the purposes of a purse. 
I observed the same kind of cap used among 
the Maronites of Mount Lebanon. 

The girdle round the loins is still in use among 
the Maltese of the lower order; that made of 
cotton is called a terha, that of silk a bushakka. 
With this the pantaloons are confined round the 
waist, and is generally three or four yards in 
length. There can be no doubt that this is a 
relic of the oriental costume, introduced into 
Malta by the Arabs. 

It is not common to see any in this dress with 
a jacket, its place being supplied by a sedria, or 
vest, which, in many cases, is ornamented down 
the front with several rows of round silver but- 
tons, as large as birds' eggs. At other times, 
instead of these, the buttons consist of large pieces 
of money, especially quarter-dollar pieces, and 
sometimes shillings with long shanks fastened 
on to them. A Maltese cuts a very fine figure 
when he is thus set off, or is in gdla, as they ex- 
press it, with a long curl hanging down each 
side of the face, and having his fingers covered 
with many massy rings, of which they are parti- 
cularly fond. 

At the present day, the sandals are not used 
except by the country people; but there can be 
no doubt that they formed a part of the ancient 



94 



COSTUME. 



native dress. These consist of two oblong pieces 
of untanned bull's hide, drawn round the foot 
with two strings of the same material, and are 
called kork. Some years ago, an old man used 
to sit by the gate of Porta Reale, and it wks 
worth while seeing the dexteritv with which he 
shod the country people who applied to him. 
The whole was done in a few minutes; for the 
customer first laid his foot on the extended hide, 
and after taking the dimensions by just marking 
the circumference, the old man cut it off, and 
making four holes in each piece for ears, gave him 
a pair of strings, and all was over. 

Many of the working classes in the country, 
especially masons, wear over their shoulder what 
they call a khury, in which they take their pro- 
visions to town for the day, and carry it home 
laden with supplies for their family, in the even- 
ing when their labour is over. It is about three 
yards long and two feet wide, open in the mid- 
dle, so as to form a bag at each end. The ac- 
companying sketch will illustrate the above des- 
cription of the native dress of the Maltese males. 

As to the costume of the ladies of the towns, 
I fully accord with the observation of a Jesuit, 
who passed through Malta in the latter end of 
the last century. He says, "leur demarche et 
leur habillement sont si modestes, qu'oii les 



COSTUME. 



95 



prendroit pour des religieuses. " * I believe 
many, on their first arrival at the island, have had 
the same impression, that most of the females in 
Malta were nuns. It is rather to be regretted 
that so many have of late adopted the English 
costume, which is certainly far from being as sim- 
ple, and by no means as modest and becoming. 
The bonnet, especially, as well as the gentleman's 
hat, are quite unnatural appendages; the one is 
satirically called an umbrella, and the other a 
kettle by many of the orientals, t 

The outer dress consists of a black silk petti- 
coat, bound round the waist over a body of some 
other kind of silk or print; this is called a half 
onnella. The upper part is called the onnetta, 
and is made of the same material with the former, 
drawn up into neat gathers for the length of a 
foot about the centre of one of the outer seams. 
Jn the seam of one of the remaining divisions is 
enclosed a thin piece of whalebone, which is 
drawn over the head, and forms an elegant arch, 
leaving the face and neck perfectly open. The 

* Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, Tom, I. p. 315. 

+ As soon as the Frank costume was permitted to be 
worn in Damascus, the natives were quite surprised at 
the black hats ; and so much were they shocked, at their 
unseemly shape and size, that they have ever since de- 
nominated an European as Aboo Turtjara, the father 
of a pot. 

*6 



96 



COSTUME. 



left arm is covered with one part of this habit, 
and the right is used for keeping down the 
angle of the other. The whole is extremely 
neat; but it requires a peculiar grace in walking 
to shew it off to advantage. In this respect the 
Maltese ladies are not deficient, and here I beg 
to differ from Signor D ? Avalos, who writes, " elles 
n'ont ni les graces des femmes Francaises, ni le 
maintien noble et simple des Anglaises; "* unless 
he had written it concerning some of those who 
have adopted the English costume, to which they 
have not yet become much accustomed. 

The dress of the country women does not es- 
sentially differ in shape, but the material is ge- 
nerally striped or barred native cotton, of a very 
substantial quality. The head dress is called a 
isholkdna instead of an onnella. The doublett is 
in shape the same with the half onnella, but on 
particular occasions, such as a marriage or a 
christening, they put on the gezwira, which is a 
kind of petticoat of blue cotton striped with white, 
drawn up in very thick creases round the waist, 
and open on the right side, where it is tied at 
different distances with bows of ribbon. The 
undermost habit differs somewhat from that worn 
by the ladies of the city, and is called a dell. 

* Tableau Historique de Malte, vol, I. p e 77. 



COSTUME. 



97 



This reaches no farther down than the loins, upon 
which another garment is tied round the waist, 
answering something to an under petticoat. 

It is not very customary for the poor females 
in the country to wear shoes, though, if able, they 
in general endeavour to possess a pair. These, 
however, are reserved for very particular occa- 
sions, such as a visit to the city, the village feast, 
a wedding, or the day of confirmation, and then 
they make use of them as little as possible. It 
is quite common to meet with several in the 
morning upon their arrival at the gate of Porta 
Reale, performing their toilet beneath the arches, 
by putting on their best doublett and their 
shoes. A Maltese informed me the other day, 
that not long ago he heard a country woman 
asking a companion, while engaged in preparing 
to enter the city, how long she had had her shoes; 
the answer was, "Since the time of the plague." 
(1813) "Oh!" replied the other, "mine are 
much older than yours, for I have had them since 
the blockade of the French." I cannot vouch 
for the truth of this anecdote, but it certainly 
goes to shew the economy of the Maltese coun- 
try women in the article of shoe leather. 

I have little doubt that the origin of the onnella 
must be sought for in the oriental veil. Laying 
aside the great probability that the latter was 

**6 



98 



AMUSEMENTS r 



used in this island during the domination of the 
Arabs, I have been very much struck with the 
similarity which there exists between both, when 
the onnella is made of some thin cloth, and suffer- 
ed to hang down carelessly behind the back. 
Modern civilization and fashion, has, in my opi- 
nion, made this once barbarous appendage, one 
of the neatest head-dresses among the costumes 
of Europe. 

The accompanying sketches will serve to illus- 
trate the aboye description. 



AMUSEMENTS. 

Processions : Good Friday — Easter Sunday — Festival 
of St. Gregory — Curious article in marriage con- 
tracts— Feast of St Peter and St. Paul — Races — - 
Carnival — Parata — Origin of — Giostra or Slip- 
pery pole — Boat race. 

The principal recreations of the Maltese have, 
in general, some connection with their religious 
ceremonies. The numerous processions, which 
however of late have been very much diminished, 
afford opportunities to the stranger of seeing 
every rank and class of the people, in their best 
attire, congregated together in crowds to witness 
the scene. The two chief occasions when these 
walk are of opposite natures; one being that of 



AMUSEMENTS. 



99 



Good Friday, intended to celebrate the death and 
passion of our Saviour, and the other the process- 
ion of St. Gregory, which is continued unto the 
present day in commemoration of some sig- 
nal public deliverance. The former takes place 
in the town on Holy Thursday, and is attended 
by the greater part of the clergy of the island with 
the distinctive banners of their order, and their 
own particular dress. The train leaves the church 
of ta Gesu a little before sunset, the priests and fri- 
ars walking in file on each side of the street, with 
huge lighted wax tapers in their hands, and chant- 
ing as they follow the statues, which are carried 
before them at equal distances in the procession. 
These images are in general of a large size, and 
represent the various sufferings of the Saviour 
until he is laid in the sepulchre; which last is a 
splendid canopy, with rich curtains tassellated 
with gold, having a figure as large as life stretch- 
ed beneath them. The rear is generally brought 
up by a number of persons entirely covered in 
white or black garments, with eye-holes to see 
through, and dragging at their feet chains of dif- 
ferent lengths and dimensions. This is a penance 
which the poor creatures inflict upon themselves 
for the commission of some offence, or the ful- 
filment of a vow they have made in the time of 
affliction. It is not unfrequent to see the ancles 



100 



AMUSEMENTS. 



of some of these individuals very much bruised, 
and even bleeding with the weight of the chains 
they drag behind them; and in this state, some 
will not even allow the children to assist in mo- 
ving them, so as to render the task a little easier. 
After traversing several of the streets, the process- 
ion reenters the church from which it came out- 
Very early on Easter Sunday, before day-light * 
a great crowd with lamps in their hands assemble 
around the door of the Greek Catholic church, 
from whence they take a large image, represent- 
ing the resurrection of our Lord, with a Maltese 
fl ag in his hand. With this they proceed through 
Strada Reale, amidst the joyful acclamations of 
the people who follow it, and upon their arrival 
at the small church of the Vittoria, a gun is fired 
from the cavalier, which is a signal for a general 
run as far as the walls of the city. After traversing 
several other streets, they deposit the image in 
the same church from which they took it. I would 
observe, that this procession is unattended by any 
of the clergy. 

The feast of St. Gregory consists of a process- 
ion composed of the fratelli* of all the churches, 



* In order that the reader may understand what is 
meant by this term, I would just observe, that connected 
with almost every church is a fraternity consisting of 
laymen, who join themselves together by contributing 



AMUSEMENTS, 



101 



the clergy of the different parishes of the towns 
and villages, the canons of the the cathedrals, 
and the Bishop, who assemble together at the 
village called Casal Nuovo, and walk as far as 
Zeitun, the whole company joining in the re- 
sponses of the Great Litany, which is pronounced 
by the chief priest of each order. On their ar- 
rival at Zeitun, they all visit the old church of St, 
Gregory, where at a particular part of the cere- 
mony, the whole crowd exclaim aloud three times, 
"Misericordia;" and afterwards spend the remain- 
ing part of the day in eating and drinking, and 
various kinds of amusements. The origin of this 
feast is involved in obscurity; but it is commonly 
supposed to be founded upon a general vow of 
the inhabitants, on their deliverance from a great 
plague; some say, a large swarm of locusts 
which once devastated the island. 

a certain sum yearly into a common fund, which is ge- 
nerally laid out upon the church, or otherwise disposed 
of by them for religious purposes. Each fraternity has 
a president, and meets once a week in order to talk over 
the affairs connected with their body, which generally 
turns upon decorating the church, or their own particular 
altar, the ordering of illuminations, processions, &c 5 
Each fraternity wears a particular uniform correspond- 
ing with their banner, which is generally borne before 
them when they walk in procession. 

The fratelli of the convent of St. Domenico, under the 
patronage of the Madonna del Rosario, consists entirely 
of persons who have some relation with the law facul- 
ty, such as advocates, notaries, &c. 



102 AMUSEMENTS. 

It is a common occurrence for country females 

ft 

to stipulate with their intended husbands, that 
they shall take them once a year to see the prin- 
cipal feasts of the island. St. Gregorio is one of 
the above; and the bridegroom makes it a point, 
if possible, to become the standard-bearer in the 
procession of the lay brethren of his village. 
This is considered a great honor, and consequent- 
ly the privilege is held out to the highest bidder. 
The individual who succeeds in obtaining the 
prize, agrees with his bride, that he will meet her 
at the village where the procession terminates. 
On their arrival, to show his gallantry in the sight 
of his fair one, he seizes the staff of the standard, 
waves it about several times through the air, and 
then joins her for the remaining part of the day. 

Among the many ludicrous songs and compo- 
sitions used on the davs of carnival, the following 
is not uncommon, and as it alludes to the custom 
I have just mentioned, I shall transcribe it with 
an English translation. 

V aghrayyes yaghmhi il ptdtiyUt. 



Fr iscritta matrimoniali 
Yaghmlu il pattiyiet conjugali, 
Li yihoda fil festi principals 



AMUfexMENTS. 



103 



Yonsobha fuk il hait, 

Yishtreelha shriek kobbait, 

Li ikun tal cannebusa, 

Ghash minnu tiggosta is-sinyura gharusa. 

T R A X S L ATI ON . 

The Sweethearts Bargain. 

In the wedding contract 
They make conjugal agreements: 
That he (the bridegroom) shall take her to the 

[principal feasts. 

Shall set her upon the wall, 

Shall buy her a slice of sweetmeat, 

Made up of hempseed, 

For that's the kind which the bride likes best. 

Besides the above, there are several other pro- 
cessions which take place in the town, the prin- 
cipal of which are those of St. John and St. 
Paul. On these occasions, the exterior of the 
church dedicated to the saint is illuminated with 
numerous lamps, and bonfires are lighted up in 
several of the streets. The feast of St. Peter 
and St. Paul, called by the natives L'Mnaria, 
celebrated at the Old City, is another principal 
occasion of amusement. After theservices of 
the church, crowds proceed to the Boschetto, a- 
bout two miles distant, and dividing into com- 
panies, spread themselves over the gardens to 



104 



AMUSEMENTS. 



regale themselves with the refreshments they 
bring with them, while many of the country peo- 
ple amuse themselvesin dancing, and singing, and 
many other rural gratifications. Just below the 
city, on this day, there is also a race of horses, 
mules and asses, which are entirely unharnessed, 
and the riders without any means of maintaining 
their position except their legs, which they fix un- 
der the animal's belly, while with a thong in each 
hand they belabour the poor beasts until they 
reach the goal. Another race of this kind, on the 
feast of St. Rocco, is held at the PietSt, outside 
the gates of Port des Bombes, which had its ori- 
gin in the yearly inspection of the native cavalry 
of the Order of St. John. The prizes at these 
races consist of large flags of various coloured 
silk, which the winners generally carry about the 
streets tiie next day, together with their animal* 
covered with garlands of flowers and ribbons. 

The Carnival is another source of popular a- 
musement; this begins on the sunday preceding 
Lent, and lasts for three days. The afternoon is 
the principal time of the feast, during which nu- 
merous persons in masks are seen walking about 
the streets, endeavouring to amuse themselves, 
and to be a source of amusement to others. The 
variety of dresses used on these occasions is be- 
yond description. Not a few pride themselvea 



AMUSEMENTS. 



105 



in playing all kinds of antics in a black habit, 
with long red horns, and a huge tail of the same 
colour. Calesses filled with ladies follow in a 
train through the principal streets, who readily 
engage in pelting confits and peas with any of 
the by-standers who will enter the lists with 
them. The number of respectable persons, how- 
ever, who mask in the public streets has greatly 
diminished within the last few years, and it is to 
be hoped, that their good example will soon be 
followed by an entire relinquishment of so absurd 
and foolish a diversion. The day after the car- 
nival, most of those persons who have masked 
repair to a small church in Casal Zabbar, called 
Delia Grazia, by way of penance for their follies. 

On Saturday preceding the first day of the feast 
the Parata is celebrated. This consists of seve- 
ral companies of men, dressed up in gay ribbons, 
and armed with wooden staves and shields, who 
meet together under the houses of the wealthy, 
and perform several evolutions, striking their 
shields and dancing at the sound of music. This 
is concluded by raising up a little girl, splendid- 
ly arrayed, and girded with a small dagger, which 
she is taught to wave, while the band plays the 
national anthem, " God save the King." In the 
time of the Order, they proceeded to the palace 
j to receive permission for the celebration of the 



106 



AMUSEMENTS. 



Carnival. Their request was signified to the 
Grand master by one of the knights, and upon 
the boon being granted, they immediately per- 
formed a dance in front of the palace, and after- 
wards before the door of any other person, whom 
they thought would pay them for their trouble. 

The origin of this amusement must be sought 
for in the annals of pagan rites, which Christianity 
has not succeeded in abolishing in several coun- 
tries of Europe. In a work on Malta "Par un 
voyageur Francois/' the author ranks it with a 
popular feast very ancient in Thessaly, the Safcea 
of the Babylonians, The Chronia of the Athenians, 
and the Saturnalia of Rome, which many of the 
early christians continued, notwithstanding the 
zealous efforts which were made by the church 
to abolish them. 

Another very famous diversion of the Maltese 
is the Giostra, which takes place on the anniver- 
sary of the victory gained over the Turks, when 
they made their attack upon the island, in the 
reign of La Vslette. This sport is accompanied 
with races of boats which run part of the length 
of the harbour, the prizes being awarded by the 
Government. The Giostra is a large barge, an- 
chored in an open place in the centre of the port, 
having a long tapering pole placed horizontally 
from the head, with a small flag fixed on at the 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 107 

end, and made very slippery with grease, soap 
and several other ingredients. At a given signal, 
a number of naked boys are ready mounted on 
the barge, who immediately begin the task of 
endeavouring to seize the flag. One after an- 
other they continue tumbling into the water, and 
rising again to renew the attempt. Gradually 
the greasy matter begins to diminish, and they 
are able to advance farther; but an hour ge- 
nerally elapses before the prize is seized, and 
very seldom before some accident has happened 
among the competitors, many of whom strike 
their limbs on the poles in their fall into the 
water. This amusement generally attracts a nu- 
merous quantity of boats round the barge, filled 
with hundreds of spectators both male and fe- 
male. 

ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

Origin of the present Maltese codes — Confusion of — 
Enumeration of the courts — Suppression of the Bi- 
shop's Tribunal — Trial by Jury introduced — Com- 
missions to draiv up new codes — Result of their la- 
bours — Language in -which the Maltese codes ought 
to be written. 

The Order of St. John of Jerusalem made over 
to the Maltese a deposit of written and consue- 
tudinary laws, copied from the ancient Roman 

* * * g 



108 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 



and Roman Ecclesiastical legislations. At that 
period, Sicily followed the same course; for, since 
that island had come under the dominion of the 
Spaniards, it was obliged, in spite of the feelings 
of the people, to be subject to the power of the 
Vatican, which thought itself capable of regulating 
the morals of whole nations, with the confusion of 
laws one thousand two hundred years old, — a 
confusion increasingly aggravated by the Bulla- 
rium, the mass of the Pope's Decretals, and those 
of the Stravaganti. It appears, therefore, that 
the legislation of Malta was the same with that 
of Sicily. In later times, it is true, this island 
enjoyed several laws of her owivsuch as those 
of Manoel de Vilhena, Rohan, and other Grand- 
masters, who from time to time issued proclama- 
tions or provisionary regulations for particular 
cases; yet, both the Municipal Constitutions, as 
well as the above Proclamations, were, for the 
most part, very badly disposed, far behind the 
the times and the people which they governed, 
and coined, without exception, upon the impress 
of the above mentioned constitutions. 

As to the Judiciary Proceedings of the coun- 
try, they w r ere based upon the Rito Sicufo; and 
the organization of the courts conformed to the 
same. 

It cannot fail to surprise, tfyat the same disorders 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 109 

and even greater than those which existed in the 
legislation, during the rule of the Order, should 
continue unto the present day in actual force in 
the island. Half a century ago, this confusion 
of laws was not very sensibly felt by an endu- 
ring and docile people like the Maltese. The 
subjects of a theocracy, they found a remedy for 
their real evils in the religious fanaticism which 
supported them; and, which, while it stupified their 
minds, lessened their wants and even their desires. 
The case, however, is now different ; and if not 
from direct cooperation on the part of the local 
government, at least from the reflection of the 
light of European civilization, which shines upon 
them in the centre of the Mediterranean, under 
the auspices of Great Britain, — the Maltese peo- 
ple, although the same in many respects, have 
still become capable of valuing their own true 
,! state, as also the state of their legislation. 

The code of the Grandmaster Rohan is in full 
force up to the present moment. Very few of 
the salutary laws, however, therein contained 
I j (such, for example, as those which have reference 
i to fathers of families and vagabonds,) are follow- 
ed out; while a multitude of such as are incohe- 
rent, or written ad terrorem, or incompatible with 
the judiciary order newly introduced, or repug- 
nant with the newly established rule of commercial 

7 



110 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

jurisprudence, (which requires laws correspond- 
ing more or less between the countries which 
have commercial intercourse with each other) 
are in actual vigour. 

Where provision is not made in this code, 
(which very frequently happens) the indigested 
farrago of the Corpus Juris of Justiuian is brought 
in to supply the want. This monstrous collec- 
tion of the monuments of the knowledge, barba- 
rity, and imbecility of various Roman legislators, 
(as it is called by Filangieri) is much less adapt- 
ed for Malta, than for any other country, subject 
as it is to the dominion of England. A country 
like Malta, which draws its chief resources from 
commerce, and under the rule of the most com- 
mercial people in the world, should not be go- 
verned by the code of a people anti-commercial 
by nature, and by political disposition. The for- 
mulae, the solemnities, and the actions of law are 
so many insupportable shackles to commerce 
and good faith, and the expedition necessary in 
all commercial transactions. 

The infinite number of writers on the Roman 
Law, Dissertationists, Commentators, Casuists, 
Deciders, the Italian Rote, and more especially 
the Rota Romana, all come in to the aid of the 
already mentioned compilations, whenever 
doubts, anomalies, contradictions, either in the 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. Ill 

letter or spirit of the laws occur, which is 
almost always the case. But it scarcely ever 
happens that, in recurring to this host of writers, 
one ever succeeds in arriving at a clearer under- 
standing of the case; for they are even more 
confused and contradictory among themselves 
than the law itself. Notwithstanding all this, the 
authority of each is admitted in our tribunals, 
without any distinction; so that writers for other 
countries, for other times, under governments 
entirely different from that under which this 
island at present exists, are very often the legal 
criterion by which the magistrate pronounces his 
decision. 

To the above mentioned sources of the Native 
Legislation, there must be added the immense 
mass of Proclamations and Notifications which 
the Governors of the island have incessantly pub- 
lished; very often contradictory to each other, 
and almost continually revoking or amending 
the preceding. These at present form seven fo- 
lio volumes. 

In 1814 Sir Thomas Maitland made an at- 
tempt to reform the procedures, and to organize 
the Courts of Justice on a new plan. To this 
end he published a general constitution for all 
the courts, and a statute for each one in particu- 
lar, which are undoubtedly to be commended for 



112 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 



their simplicity and perspicuity; nevertheless we 
cannot refrain stating, from practical observation 
on this partial reform, that the principal design 
of the legislator was only to burden the public 
with a tax, whenever they had a case to bring 
before the court, or had occasion to claim then- 
own property. Even at present, the weight 
of the expenses of the several courts, differing 
from that of the Registrars through every Hall, 
is indescribable; and this, besides what is neces- 
sary for the pay of advocates, legal procurators, 
&c. In fact, in many cases, it is only left in the 
power of the rich to obtain justice in the tribu- 
nals of Malta. Again, the number of these halls 
is such as to create continual inconvenience, and 
to augment the arbitrariness of appeals without 
any real advantage to justice. The following is 
a list of the tribunals: 
First Hall of the Civil Court. 
Second Hall of ditto. 
Third Hall of ditto. 
Commercial Court. 
First and Second Halls of Appeal. 
Supreme Council of Justice, as a regular Court 

of Appeal, and as a Court of Reprieve. 
Commission for Bankruptcies. 
Criminal Court, composed of one, two or three 

judges, 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 113 

Court of Special Commission for certain criminal 
cases. 

Commission for Piracy. 

Criminal Court of the Police Magistrates. 

Civil Court of ditto. 

Criminal Court of the Marine Police. 

Civil Court of ditto. 

Magistrate's Court for the Markets. 

Court of the Lieutenant Deputies. 

Court of the Monthly Sessions. 

Deputation for Marriage legacies. 

All these without mentioning the appeal to Lon- 
don, or enumerating the different courts in the 
island of Gozo. 

Besides that these judiciary authorities must 
necessarily, from their number, be very burden- 
some to the population, by whom they are sup- 
ported, they are also rendered inefficacious of 
securing the design for which they exist, on ac- 
count of the confusion and disorder which result 
from them. The modes of trial, introduced into 
every court, are different; and the registers or 
offices appertaining to eaoh follow diverse sys- 
tems in the conduct of i$s affairs. The judges 
themselves have sometimes been confusee oix 
their benches, and seen asking of the official 
Registrar the practices to be followed in parti- 
cular cases. 



114 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

The suppression of the Bishop's Court, which 
took place in 1828, cannot be mentioned but 
with praise ; its jurisdiction is at present confined 
to cases entirely spiritual. The abuses of this 
tribunal had become insupportable, and the ap- 
peals made therefrom to the Court of Rome were 
not only attended with heavy expenses, but were 
also interminable. 

Trial by Jury in certain determinate criminal 
cases, where condemnation for life to the public 
works, or sentence of death is the penalty to be 
inflicted^ was introduced by virtue of a Procla- 
mation issued in the year 1829. So far, how- 
ever, experience shows, that this procedure, in the 
manner in which it has been conducted here, has 
not only been useless, and no improvement upon 
the old system; but> moreover, that it is tedious, 
and formulary. It is undeniable the great benefit 
which this mode of trial has been in England, re- 
garding itboth in a purely judiciary point of view, 
as well as morally and politically in its relations 
with the British Constitution, and with the actual 
state of the civilization of the people. In France 
it is evidently much less advantageous than in 
England. Of what practical benefit can it be 
for Malta ? Is it a legislative measure fit for a 
country only sixty miles in circumference ? What 
state of popular education ought to accompany 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 115 

it ? It appears that the legislator little thought of 
the solution of these important questions before he 
daubed out the law which he has introduced, — 
which law, to speak plainly, must have been but 
very little pondered, if we may judge from the 
manner in which it is written, and from its actual 
effects since it has been in force. We cannot 
withhold mentioning one of the most consider- 
able errors in this system, which is continually 
threatening its ruin, (and it is quite a miracle 
that it has hitherto resisted its force,) it is the 
absolute incompatibility which there exists be- 
tween the above law, and the humour of the code 
enacted during the reign of the Grandmaster 
Rohan, under the government of the Order; to 
which this law, by the manner in which it is drawn 
up, must necessarily refer in its application. 
Cases of piracy are prosecuted nearly in accor- 
dance with the English mode of trial by jury. 

All the inconveniences above referred to in 
the general system of the legislation of Malta, 
in the organization of the Courts, and in the ju- 
diciary order, have induced the inhabitants se- 
veral time? within the last few years, to demand 
a remedy from Great Britain. Their reason- 
able request was at length attended to, and a 
Commission was formed in order to draw up a 
new code of laws, after the model of those most 

* * 7 



116 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

recently enacted in Europe. For the accom- 
plishment of this purpose, the persons first elect- 
ed were Sir J. Stoddart, Chief Justice of the 
island, J. Kirkpatrick, Esq., Robert Langslow„ 
Esq., Attorney General at Malta, with Dr. V. €i 
Bonnici, and Dr. J. G. Bonavita, two of Her Ma- 
jesty's native judges. 

Several months after the emanation of the 
above commission the question arose, "Whether 
the English or the Italian was to be the text in 
which the new laws for Malta ought to be writ- 
ten." The English members, with the exception 
of John Kirkpatrick, Esq., held out for the Eng- 
lish language, and the Maltese for the Italian. 
The arguments on both sides were examined by 
the Colonial Department, and the Italian was 
approved. The matter finally terminated in the 
revocation of the commission, and the appoint- 
ment of another in the persons of five Maltese 
members. Up to the year 1835, the result of 
their labours was the Penal Code, and the Laws 
of Procedure and Penal Organization, which 
have not yet been put into practice. To these 
we must refer, rather than to any other source 
in order to decide upon the fitness or unfitness of 
the persons deputed for the accomplishment of 
the desired end. The chief basis of the design, 
as is believed, was laid by Dr. J.G. Bonavita, the 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 117 

principal advocate for the Italian language to be 
used in writing out the Maltese legislation. 

Are these codes, however, perfect? But, we 
would ask, what codes hitherto published to the 
world can be said to approach perfection, those 
of Austria, Prussia, and France not excepted? 
Those destined for Malta appear to possess some 
fo the necessary qualities of a good body of law, 
viz. integrity, method, and perspicuity, although 
no attempt was made to improve the Neapolitan 
Code upon which they are based. The Maltese 
public, however, did not give them a welcome 
reception from the moment of their publication; 
yet, notwithstanding the clamours which were 
raised against them, especially by the legal fa- 
culty, the general invitation which was given 
for any observations or suggestions to be made 
concerning them, within a fixed period, passed 
away without any such criticism having been 
presented. The late Commissioners of Inquiry, 
also, although deputed to examine into the state 
of legislation in general, left without taking any 
notice of them, or making any enquiries in regard 
to the judiciary organization of the island. And 
can it be imagined that the judgment passed upon 
j these codes, by that portion of the Maltese peo- 
i pie who read and write, can be entirely ex- 
empted from the suspicion of prejudice in many. 



118 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

and of offended self love in a few? For, whilst 
we admit that free concourse is the most recom- 
mend able plan in order to the formation of a good 
code of laws, such an end could not have been 
better attained in Malta, at the present time, than 
has been by the above mentioned Commission. 
If they have failed, the bad success of their la- 
bours must be sought for elsewhere. The Com- 
mission consisted of five persons, chosen by the 
local government, against which the worst feel- 
ings were entertained by a great proportion of 
the people; and this just at a time when the Com- 
missioners of Inquiry were expected to redeem 
them from the real or supposed evils which they 
were suffering from the said government. Be- 
sides this, before proceeding to the formation of 
such codes, the political code of power should 
have been better organized. At present the ma- 
gistracies do not know their proper limits; they 
are always safe whenever they are guilty of abuse 
or injustice. A proclamation was publicly issued 
which declared that Her Majesty's Attorney Ge- 
neral would not be held responsible for any de- 
linquency or abuse of power, of which he might be 
guilty in his office of public functionary. The 
legislative power frequently trespasses on the 
judiciary, and both, but more especially the for- 
mer, rule at their own caprice the executive. 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 119 

The labours of the above mentioned Commis- 
sion for preparing new codes of laws are at pre- 
sent suspended. It is said that a rough sketch of 
the Civil Code is already drawn out. What the 
reform will be in regard to this subject, if any 
reform is to be made, it is difficult to foresee; 
the necessity of such a change is felt more and 
more.* 

In regard to the language in which the laws 
for Malta ought to be written, it appears rather 
strange that our Home Government should have 
decided for the Italian. It is certainly an except- 
ion to the general plan of proceeding, as carried 
into effect in her other colonies; and if the same 
policy is continued, it must not only be detriment- 
al to her own interests, but also to the interests 
of the Maltese people. Yet, perhaps, consider- 
ing the present state of language at Malta, and 
the very limited number of such persons as can 
read and write, (and written laws can only be ser- 
viceable to such) who have any acquaintance with 
the English, the decision may be justified on the 
ground of their paternal wishes for the present 
welfare and advancement of the people. But to 
establish the Italian here as the language of the 

* For the foregoing part of this article I am indebted 
to the kindness of a friend of mine, an advocate of the 
Maltese bar, himself a Maltese. 



120 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

laws, without some decided and definite plan to 
effect a change at some fixed period, will be to 
give it a firmer footing; and, so far as we may 
judge from the analogy of the past, will only 
serve to keep the island much longer in its pre- 
sent unsettled and lamentable state in respect oi 
language. There will always exist the same con- 
flict which exists now between the English, the 
Italian, and the Maltese; the former may make a 
little more progress, but can never be expected 
to become the general language of the mass of 
the people, who do not see it their direct interest 
to acquire it; the Italian must necessarily be cul- 
tivated by the most enlightened portion of the 
inhabitants, and yet cannot become general un- 
der an English Government ; and the Maltese, 
which has maintained its footing for upwards of 
nine centuries, will not be driven away while the 
two former are left to dispute between themselves 
which shall have the preeminence. 

The supposition that the English tongue will 
gradually gain the ascendancy in the island, with- 
out any direct endeavour to effect such an end, 
has no analogous example to support it. I know 
of no country in which such a change has taken 
place, even where there has been only one lan- 
guage to overcome; but in Malta, the Italian 
creates a greater and more powerful obstacle 



ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 121 

than the mother tongue of the natives, because 
the former is written and studied to some extent, 
while the latter is not. 

The Maltese language gained its ascendancy 
within the limits of two hundred years, and al- 
though centuries have elapsed, it still continues, 
eminently, the language of the people. In the 
country scarcely any thing else is spoken, and in 
the town it is in general use by all classes of so- 
ciety. It does not appear that the then existing 
Arab government pursued any definite plan to 
effect a change in the language of the people; but 
the case was different. Whatever may have been 
the state of education among the very limited 
number, it is not probable that any other tongue 
then prevalent was used in writing to that extent 
which the Italian is at present; consequently the 
English cannot be expected to gain the same 
ascendancy even after the lapse of centuries. 

If a fixed time should be determined by the 
Government for the existence of the laws in Ita- 
lian, this alone would act as the most powerful 
stimulus to the rising generation to endeavour 
to obtain a competent knowledge of the English. 
After twenty or thirty years the present func- 
tionaries would be ready to resign their places, 
and others might be prepared to fill them, during 
I this period, having a sufficient acquaintance with 



122 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

the English to discharge all their duties in that 
language, with as much ease as their predecessors 
did in the Italian. If after the termination of the 
same time, no persons should be preferred to 
situations except such as possess a competent 
knowledge of the English, and all the business of 
the Government should be conducted in this 
language, a rapid change would soon take place 
in the state of things at Malta. By such mea- 
sures, this island would soon assume a different 
character, both morally and politically, and in a 
short period the inhabitants would become so 
blended with English spirit, manners, and litera- 
ture, as to be deserving of the name of Britons. 

To effect this desirable end, however, and to 
justify any measure which at first sight may ap- 
pear harsh and despotic, it will be the duty of the 
Government to facilitate the study of English li- 
terature, and to provide adequate means for the 
education of the mass of the people. The plan 
hitherto pursued in this respect must be mater- 
ially changed, both in the quality as well as the 
number of English teachers employed in the 
Government establishments. 



PART III. 



ITINERARY 

OF THE 

ISLAND OF MALTA. 



DIVISION OF THE ISLAND. 



The island of Malta may be said to contain two 
principal cities, three towns, and twenty-two casals 
or villages scattered over a part of the country. 
Many of the latter, from their size, population 
and building might be termed towns; and a few 
have been dignified with that title by several of the 
Grandmasters. As, for instance, Casal Zebbug 
is sometimes called Citta Rohan; Casal Curmi, 
Citta Pinto; and Casal Zabbar, Citta Hompesh. 

The two principal cities are Valetta and Citt& 
Notabile, called also Citta Vecchia, and in Mal- 
tese Mdina, situate about the centre of the island. 
Borgo, Senglea and Burmulo, the three chief 
towns, occupy the two promontories on the op- 
posite side of the harbour, towards the east of 
Valetta. 

In order to render the different descriptions as 
clear as possible, I shall class those objects which 
are most interesting and deserving of notice un- 
der separate heads, though by so doing, I may 



126 



ITINERARY OF VALETTA. 



sometimes be found guilty of repetition. Valet- 
ta being the capital, I shall commence with it, 
including its suburbs and fortifications. 



DETAILS OF THE CITY OF VALETTA. 

Foundation of the city — Its situation — Streets — Houses 
* — Mole — Warehouses on — Health Office — Exte- 
rior Fortifications — Gates. 

Valetta is situated on the east side of the is- 
land, in Long. 14 30' 25 7/ E. Lat. 35° 53' 4" N. 
It is built upon a promontory of land anciently 
called Shaab-er-Ras, the jutting out of the cape. 
Before the arrival of the Order, the capital of the 
island was the CittaNotabile; and the present site 
of Valetta was occupied by a few huts, and de- 
fended by the fort of St. Elmo, which at that 
time was very insignificant compared with its 
present size and strength. The first stone of the 
new city was laid by the Grandmaster La Va- 
lette, on the 23th. of March 15C6; and the whole 
was completed by his successor Pietro de Monte, 
on the 1 5th. of May 1571. 

The situation of Valetta is very convenient for 
commerce; the appearance of the town from the 
sea is delightful, nor does the interior produce 
the disappointment so common in towns of the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



127 



south of Europe. The streets are regular and 
generally well paved; but from the declivity on 
which some part of the city is built, many of them 
are steep, with side-walks composed of stairs, 
which the author of the piece entitled Farewell 
to Malta, erroneously attributed to Lord Byron, 
recollected with no very pleasant associations, 
if we may judge from the line, ' Adieu ye cursed 
streets of stairs.'' The town is kept remarkably 
clean, being swept every morning by the con- 
victs of the state prison. It is rather to be re- 
gretted, that it is so badly lighted by night; a 
small lamp affixed to the corner of every alternate 
street is all that is provided, and one is often in 
danger of falling over a heap of stones or rubbish 
piled up before some houses undergoing repairs; 
or, unless well acquainted with his way, liable 
to take a false step, and stumble down one of the 
sloping staircases. 

The houses are all built of stone, and very ge- 
nerally comprise three stories. Besides the win- 
dows opening into the street and yard, each 
dwelling has one or two balconies jutting out se- 
veral feet from the wall, and varying from six to 
twenty in length. These awkward protuberan- 
ces are sometimes open, and sometimes covered 
on the top ; and are supplied with glass windows 
which can be opened or shut at pleasure. How- 

8 



128 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



ever much these serve to destroy the beauty of 
the external appearances of the buildings, they 
are very comfortable retreats for the inmates, 
both in summer and winter, as from them they 
can espy all that transpires in the street without 
being exposed to the effects of either. 

The houses haye all flat-roofed terraces, which 
serve the double purpose of being an agreeable 
resort for a walk, and a receptacle for the rain 
which falls during the winter; from whence it runs 
into the cistern, with which almost every dwelling 
is provided. In case rain should fail, water can be 
let into the cisterns through underground canals 
which communicate with the acqueduct. Such 
houses as do not possess this convenience are 
supplied by the public fountains, of which there 
are several in different parts of the city. 

The range of buildings situated on the mole of 
the Great Harbour, under the walls of the town, 
are chiefly warehouses of two stories high. Those 
which extend as far up as the Custom-house were 
built by the Grandmaster Raymond Perellos in 
the year 1712, for the accommodation of mer- 
chants; and are very convenient for this purpose, 
from their nearness to the sea. By the same was 
erected the building at the commencement of 
these magazines, which contains the lodge of the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



129 



Marine Police, where the passports of all pas- 
sengers on their arrival are first taken, and their 
names registered in the books; they are after- 
wards deposited in the office of the Inspector 
General of Police, from whence they may be re- 
claimed after the persons have been guaranteed 
by some respectable British subject. This rule 
applies only to foreigners. 

The small chapel which stands at no great 
distance from the bottom of the stairs called Nix 
Mangiare was built by the same individual who 
founded the warehouses, and was intended for the 
use of persons on board of vessels in quarantine; 
from whence they might be spectators of the 
celebration of the mass by the officiating priest. 
The elevation of the host was signified by the 
ringing of a small bell; at which signal the audi- 
ence all knelt down to worship. The style of its 
building, on a raised base, and with a very expo- 
sed front, was designed in order that the service 
might be more conveniently seen. It is dedica- 
ted to the Santissimo Salvatore. 

Proceeding a little further, on a somewhat 
raised platform, is a circular fountain, in the cen- 
tre of which is a fine bronze statue of Neptune, 
holding the trident in one hand, and the escut- 
cheon of the Grandmaster Alofio Wignacourt, 
by whom it was raised, in the other. This piece 



130 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



of art is the work of Giovanni Bologna, a pupil 
of Michaelangelo. The semi-circular row of 
rooms situate round this fountain was built by 
the Grandmaster Raymond Despuig, and intend- 
ed as a fish-market; for which purpose it is at 
present used. 

The long excavated passage, leading from this 
division of the mole to that beyond the custom- 
house, was cut by the Grandmaster John P. Las- 
caris, and called after his name Lascaris Gate. 
The picturesque hotifce aboye it, with the garden 
which stretches beneath the Marina Gate, was also 
built by him, and was resorted to by his knights 
for pleasure and diversion during the evening. 
The parterre which leads into the dwelling, form- 
ed by the terraces of the storehouses beneath, is 
very spacious, and forms a delightful walk with 
a good view of the harbour. 

The long range of warehouses beyond the 
custom-house, as far as the Calcara Gate, was 
also the work of Lascaris. Those just below the 
Calcara Gate were erected by the Grandmaster 
Zondadari. Farther up still are nineteen other 
magazines, each two stories high, and very spa- 
cious. These were built by Emmanuel Pinto, and 
intended for an arsenal. In the centre of the 
range is a bronze bust of the founder with a Latin 
inscription. At present these are used as Ordnance 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



131 



stores. The mole was begun by Zondadari, and 
completed during the reign of Manoel de Vilhe- 
na A. D. 1726. 

The fortifications which surround the town 
are very high, and many of them formed partly 
of the native rock; the walls measure about 
fifteen feet wide, and are composed chiefly of 
the common limestone of the country. Their 
whole circumference is two miles and a half. 
The ditch which crosses the peninsula from the 
Quarantine to the Great harbour, cutting off all 
communication with the city, is about 1000 feet 
in length, 120 feet deep, and as many wide; this 
is crossed by five bridges: one before the prin- 
cipal gate, called Porta Reale, and the others 
connected with the covered ways leading from 
St. James's and St. John's cavaliers. These two 
fortresses flank the chief entrance into the town, 
and command the whole country before, and the 
city in the rear. One is at present unoccupied; 
St. James's to the left contains a detachment of 
the British garrison, and a part of the Malta 
Fencible regiment. Each is capable of quarter- 
ing five hundred men. 

Beyond the counterscarp are many outworks 
and glacis built in the same massy style, and well 
supplied with cannon, rendering the city one 
of the best defensible in the world, One would 

*8 



132 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



imagine that all these fortifications must require 
a great force to man them properly; yet, it was 
calculated by the Cavalier Foulard, that 12,000 
troops would suffice for the defence of the port, 
and the security of the walls. During the exist- 
ence of the Order, the knights of each Language 
had a particular post assigned to them in case 



of an attack. The division was as follows: to 
the Knights of 

Provence, The rampart of St. John, with its 

cavalier. 

Auvergne, ...... St. Michael. 

France, ...... St. James, with its 

cavalier. 

Italy, St Peter and Paul. 

Arragon, St. Andrew. 

England, Platform of St. Lazarus. 

Germany, Rampart of St. Sebastian. 
Castile, . . . • Sta. Barbara. 



The city is closed by three gates: Porta Reale, 
which is the chief entrance from the country; 
Porta Marsamuscetto from the Quarantine har- 
bour, and the Marina Gate from the Great har- 
bour. Besides the above, there are two sally- 
ports: one leading from the outer walls of fort 
St. Elmo, and the other before the rampart of 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 133 

St. Lazarus, which is at present open for the con- 
venience of those who live on the opposite side 
of the Quarantine harbour. Here they can take 
boats and cross over as far as Sliema or Fort 
Tign6 until sunset, when it is closed for the night. 
This passage is called the Jews' Sally-port. 

The principal street of the city is Strada Reale, 
which extends from the gate of the same name, 
as far as the castle of St. Elmo; a distance of 
three quarters of a mile. The chief streets which 
run parallel with this are: 

Strada Forni. Strada Stretta. 

. . . Mercanti. . . . Zecca. 
... St. Paolo. . . . Sta. Ursola. 

The principal cross-streets are : 
Strada Mezzodl. Strada Vescovo. 

. . . Brittanica. . . . San Cristoforo. 

. . . St. Giovanni. . . . SanDomenico. 
. . . Sta. Lucia. . . . Teatro. 

Strada San Nicola. 

We shall commence our details by describing 



THE CASTLE OF ST. ELMO. 

This fortress is built on the extremity of the 
peninsula of land which separates the two chief 
harbours of the island. The present site of St. 
Elmo was anciently called Delia Guardia; as 

**8 



134 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



here a watch was constantly kept to notice the 
entrance of all vessels into both harbours. Here 
also was a small chapel dedicated to St. Eras- 
mus or St. Elmo, the tutelar saint of seamen; 
from which the fort derives its name. The fort 
was first erected by order of the viceroy of Sicily, 
on the occasion of an attack of the Turks in 1488, 
When the knights of Rhodes took possession 
of Malta, they soon saw the importance of hav- 
ing this point well fortified, and after an invasion 
of the Turks, when it was first projected to build 
anew city on Mount Shaab-er-Ras, by order of the 
Grandmaster Jean D' Omedes, in the year 1552* 
this fortress was much enlarged, and destined to 
form the citadel of the town. The work was 
carried on and completed under the direction of 
the Grand Prior of Capua; masons and other 
workmen were brought over from Sicily for the 
purpose. 

In 1565, the eighth year of the reign of La 
Valette, Solyman, enraged at the seizure of a 
Turkish gallion belonging to the chief black eu- 
nuch of his seraglio, vowed the destruction of 
Malta; and for that purpose, destined a formida- 
ble armament under Dragut, the admiral of the 
Algerine fleet, which appeared off the island in 
the month of May. The first point of attack de- 
termined on by Solyman's general was St. Elmo, 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



135 



which was usually garrisoned by sixty men, under 
the command of one knight ; but such was the 
importance of the place, that it was thought ex- 
pedient to add a reinforcement. Accordingly, 
sixty knights and a company of Spanish infantry 
were sent to support it. 

On the 25th. of the same month the Turkish 
artillery began to batter the fort both from the 
sea and land. In a few days a breach was ef- 
fected, and a most bloody contest ensued, which 
must soon have ended in the entire destruction 
of so small a garrison, had not fresh supplies of 
troops continually arrived during the night, from 
Borgo, in boats, which took back the wounded 
from the fort. The ravelin was next stormed 
by the besiegers, and fell into their hands after 
a loss on their part of about 3000 men; but 
insensible to this loss, they continued the attack 
with unexampled ardour. In the mean time the 
courage of the garrison was unabated; but see- 
ing that the ravelin was taken, the fort exposed, 
the greater part of the artillery dismounted, the 
ramparts in ruins, with but very few soldiers to 
defend them, they deputed a knight to wait upon 
the Grandmaster to request that they might 
evacuate the fort. La Valette, though secretly 
deploring the fate of so many brave men who 
had fallen, yet^ knowing the importance of the 



136 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



place, would not consent to its abandonment on 
the most urgent entreaties from many of the 
Order. By a stratagem which he formed, he 
raised the emulation and jealousy of the peti- 
tioners, who were now determined to die rather 
than yield up their posts. On the 16th. of June, 
a general assault was made by the enemy, and 
the walls were laid even with the rock on which 
they were built. The Turks now entered the 
ditch, where a fierce engagement took place; for, 
while a continual fire was kept up from both 
sides, the parties grappled with each other, after 
they had broken their pikes in the contest. 
The assault continued for six hours, when the 
enemy began to give way, and sounded a retreat 
after having lost 3000 men. Seventeen knights 
perished in the breach, and 300 soldiers were 
either killed or wounded. 

A reinforcement of 150 men from Borgo, who 
voluntarily offered themselves for the service, 
was now sent over to the fort; but this was the 
last time such assistance could be afforded. The 
Turkish commander managed to land a force on 
the opposite side, at the Renella creek, which 
hindered any boat from crossing over to the help 
of the besieged. On the 21st. three assaults were 
made, and were as often repulsed, until night 
put a stop to the contest. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 1«3 I 

On the following day the assault was renewed 
by day-break, and after defending the breach for 
four hours, only sixty men remained to man it. 
At 11 o'clock, the Janissaries made themselves 
masters of the cavalier, and the Turkish com- 
mander entered the fort. Not one knight was 
left alive, and the few remaining soldiers perish- 
ed in the breach. The loss of the enemy is es- 
timated at 8000, while the Order lost 300 knights 
and about 1300 soldiers. 

The inhuman Turk, wishing to revenge the 
death of his troops, ordered a search to be made 
among the dead and wounded for the knights, 
whose hearts he had ripped out, and after cutting 
their breasts in the shape of a cross, commanded 
them to be set afloat on boards, designing that 
the tide should carry them over to St. Angelo 
towards Borgo. By way of reprisal, La Valette 
ordered all the prisoners to be put to death, and 
loading his cannon with their still bleeding heads, 
fired them into the enemy's camp. 

In the following year, after the reimbarkment 
and defeat of the Turkish expedition, when the 
first stone of the city of Valetta was laid, the 
Fort of St. Elma was repaired and fortified, and 
built in a more regular form than it was before. 
In the year 1687, under the Grandmaster Carafa, 
the fortress was almost rebuilt, and in the 



138 ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



commencement of the eighteenth century, the 
surrounding bastions were added by the Grand- 
master Raimondo de Perellos e Roccaful. These 
bastions, as also the fort, are built of a very hard 
limestone, called by the natives zoncor, and are 
well supplied with bombs and cannon, and other 
pieces of artillery. On the angles of the ramparts 
which command the entrance into both harbours 
are two turrets, formerly intended for the pur- 
pose of watching the vessels which entered and 
left the harbour. At present, the entrances to 
these are closed up with two marble slabs, one 
bearing an inscription to the memory of Admiral 
Sir A. Ball, once governor of Malta, below which 
are interred his remains surrounded by an iron 
railing; and the other in memory of Sir Ralph 
Abercrombie, whose embalmed body is enclosed 
in a barrel within the turret, just as it was brought 
from Aboukir. From this circumstance, the ram- 
parts to the west are called after the name of 
the former, BalVs bastions, and those to the 
East, Abercrombie s bastions. 

From the watch-tower surmounting the fort 
vessels may be seen at a great distance; the 
quality of the sail in sight is marked by different 
signals, and the points from which they are com- 
ing may be known by the position in which these 
signs are placed, on a stand prepared for the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



139 



purpose. This custom existed in the time of the 
Order, and is continued to the present day. 
Men-of-war are signified by two balls suspended 
on a small pole, a packet by one, and a merchant 
vessel by a small square white flag. 

The treble row of magazines, nineteen on each 
story, now forming a barrack for two regiments of 
the line, was erected, under the auspices of the 
Grandmaster Emmanuel Pinto, and intended for 
store-houses of ammunition for the Order, and 
a safe asylum for females in case of a siege. 
These magazines are bomb proof, and are built 
within the walls, under the western wing of the 
Fort, from a design by the Cavalier Tigne. The 
terrace of this building is well paved, and forms 
a delightful walk, enjoying an extensive view of 
the sea. In the square, in front of the barracks, 
is a fine fountain, surmounted by four large stone 
shells, from which the water was formerly made 
to spring. Over the two gates which open the 
descent to the square, were placed the arms of 
the Grandmaster Pinto, surrounded with warlike 
trophies and other ornaments. Those on the 
north-western side have been thrown down; but 
those opposite, towards the town, are still to be 
seen, though somewhat destroyed by the hand 
of time. 

The fort of St Elmo is at present garrisoned 



140 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



by English Artillery, and a small detachment 
of infantry. The quarters which they occupy are 
very healthy; those on the walls are open to 
the air, and those below are built with spacious 
corridors along the ranges of rooms. There 
w as a small chapel in the fort, which is now used 
for a different purpose. The light-house, which 
rises from one of the angles, has latelv been itn- 
proved by the English Government. 

Since the year 1565, when St. Elmo unhappily 
fellinto the hands of the Turks, but was afterwards 
retaken by the knights, the fort was siezed upon 
by a mob of priests and malcontents amounting 
to between three and four hundred persons. 
This event took place during the short reign of 
the Grandmaster Francis Ximenes de Taxada; 
but the conspirators were soon obliged to aban- 
don their position. On being seized by the Bailiff 
de Rohan, who had the charge of the attack, some 
were executed, whilst others were either ban- 
ished or imprisoned. 

The next object of interest to which I would 
direct the attention of the traveller is the 

PALACE. 

It was the original intention to erect a resi- 
dence for the Grandmaster of the Order on the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



141 



site now occupied by the Auberge de Castile; but 
P. de Monte preferred the present spot, situated 
on the most level part of the town, with a spa- 
cious square in the front, called Piazza St. Gior- 
gio. The ensemble of the exterior presents 
nothing striking, the whole forming a pile of 
unadorned architecture, about three hundred feet 
square, surrounded on every side by four of the 
principal streets, and almost enclosed on three 
with a line of open and covered balconies. It 
has two principal entrances on the front, each 
opening into an open court, and one in the centre 
of the three remaining sides. That on the back 
is never opened, on account of the stalls of the 
market, which are fixed up the whole length of 
the wall, and which not only give the building a 
very mean appearance, but destroy a great part 
of the street, with the nuisance necessarily atten- 
ding such a place of public resort. It is to be 
regretted, that another spot has not yet been se- 
lected for a market, and its present locality put to 
some other and cleaner purpose. 

The interior of the Palace was very much im- 
proved by the Grandmaster Emmanuel de Pinto. 
It consists of a lower and upper stoiy, each con- 
taining a range of apartments running round the 
building, and another transversely, which divides 
the space within into two almost equal divisions. 



142 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



The court to the left is by far the most spacious, 
and is surrounded by a portico formed with arches, 
covering a fountain opposite the entrance, sur- 
mounted with a statue of Neptune fixed in the 
wall behind. In the other yard, which communi- 
cates with the former, is also a fountain, and a 
racket-court, erected by the late governor for 
the amusement of the officers of the garrison. 

The upper story consists of numerous elegant 
apartments and spacious halls, embellished with 
views commemorative of the battles of the Order, 
executed by Matteo da Lecce. Some of the paint- 
ings are of a superior workmanship, and will well 
repay a more than cursory examination. Among 
the several masters whose genius adorns these 
walls are, Caravaggio, Giuseppe d' Arpino, and 
Cavalier Favray. In the Waiting Room, at 
the end of the hall as you ascend the chief stairs, 
are to be seen productions of Busuttil and Car- 
uana, two Maltese artists. Their principal pie- 
ces represent St. George and the Dragon, St. 
Michael, St. Peter, Mary Magdalen, and iEneas. 
Most of the very ancient paintings in the palace 
were placed here by the Grandmaster Zondadari, 
and are chiefly scriptural illustrations. 

In the corridor leading to the Armoury is the 
entrance to a room hung with tapestry of very 
superior workmanship. The drawings on these 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



143 



hangings represent scenes in India and Africa, 
and a great collection of natural history. This 
article was brought from France about 135 years 
since, yet the colours still look fresh and new. 

The most interesting sight in this building, and 
one well worthy the attention of the stranger, 
is the Armoury. This occupies a large saloon, 
extending the whole length of the building, con- 
taining the armour, and a great many warlike 
weapons belonging to the Knights of Malta, with 
numerous trophies of their splendid victories. 
The principal musketry was manufactured at the 
Tower of London, and placed here by the English 
Government, when that of the Order was remo- 
ved. The number of regular arms at present in 
this place is as follows : 

19,555 Muskets and bayonets, 
1,000 Pistols. 
30,000 Boarding pikes. 

90 Complete coats of armour for mounted 
knights. 

450 Cuirasses, casques, and gauntlets for 
infantry. 

The last mentioned armour is arranged along 
the upper part of the room in regular order, with 
their respective shields, on which is portray- 
ed the white cross of the Order on a red field. 
The armour for the mounted cavaliers and meir 

*** 8 



144 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



at-arms is of different kinds, some burnished, and 
other painted black and varnished. The complete 
suits are placed upright on stands, and posted up 
along the rows of muskets, at certain distances 
from each other, looking like so many sentinels, 
and giving a very sombre appearance to the whole 
room. A trial was once made of the force of re- 
sistance of one of these suits, and several musket- 
balls were discharged against it at sixty yards 
distance, which only produced a very shallow 
concavity. This piece of armour is still preserved 
with the rest. 

At one end of the room is a complete coat of 
black armour standing about seven feet high, and 
three and half wide. It is not very probable that 
this has been often used; the helmet alone weighs 
thirty-seven pounds. 

Close by the above is an open case, in which 
may be seen many curious specimens of musket- 
ry, pistols, swords, daggers, &c. chiefly trophies 
taken by the knights in their engagements with 
the Turks. The sword of the famous Algerine 
general Dragut is preserved among these spoils. 

Before this case is a cannon made of tarred 
rope, bound round a thin lining of copper, and 
covered on the outside with a coat of plaster 
painted black. This is a curious specimen of an- 
cient warfare, and was taken from the Turks 



I 

ITINERARY OF MALTA. 145 

during one of their attacks upon the city of 
Rhodes. It is about five feet long, and three 
inches in the caliber. 

At the other extremity of the room is the com- 
plete armour of the Grandmaster Alofio Wigna- 
court, beautifully enchased with gold; above 
which is a drawing of the same, armed cap-a-pie, 
a copy from a master-piece of the famous Cara- 
vaggio which is in the Dining-room. 

Several parts of the walls are covered with 
many curious specimens of ancient warlike im- 
plements. Here one may see cross-bows, maces, 
coats of mail, javelins, battle-axes, and various 
other instruments of bloodshed and death, which 
were wielded in days of yore by those who long 
since have finished their warfare, and now sleep 
silently in the grave. 

The man of reflection cannot fail to be affected 
with the vanity of ambition, as he examines these 
relics of the prowess of by-gone years. Is this 
all that remains of so much anxiety and love of 
power? "How mean are these ostentatious me- 
thods of bribing the vote of fame, and purchasing 
a little posthumous renown!" "How are the 
mighty fallen, and the weapons of .war perished ! " 
Of the one it may be said: 

" A heap of dust alone remains of thee, 
/Tis all thou art, and all the proud shall be ; " — 

9 



146 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



while the other serves for the decoration of a 
palace, and the momentary entertainment of a 
passing stranger. 

On the most elevated part of the Palace is 
the Torretta; a small quadrangular tower, from 
whence vessels of war are signalized. In the 
lower part of this building were formerly pre- 
served the treasures of the Order; among which 
was the sword, shield, and golden belt of Philip II. 
King of Spain, sent by him as a present to the 
Grandmaster La Valette. At present this forms 
the quarters of the Governor's Aide-de-champ. 

I must not take leave of the Palace without 
leading the stranger to the Government chapel; 
but in order to do this, he must follow me from 
the highest to the lowest part of the building, in 
a secluded spot, to the left of the chief entrance. 
It is a long room capable of accommodating 
about three hundred persons, and fitted up with 
pews, the greater part of which belong to per- 
sons employed by the Government, and the re- 
mainder let out to hire. The only part of the 
chapel where a stranger may find a sitting, with- 
out intruding upon the premises of another, is 
the end of the room, where hearing is almost 
impossible. It is certainly a disgrace to the Bri- 
tish Government to have occupied this island for 
thirty-eight years, and to have made no better 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



147 



provision for the public worship of her sub- 
jects; whilst in Italy, and in several parts of the 
east, under a foreign power, there have been 
edifices erected for this purpose. It is not per- 
haps generally known, that the British Govern- 
ment owns the church of St. John, and that of 
the Jesuits, besides several other chapels in dif- 
ferent parts of Valetta, which are at present in 
the hands of the Maltese, the local administration 
continuing to pay for the expenses and repairs 
connected with them. * Now, while we admit 
that justice demands an equality of privileges 
to servants of every denomination under Govern- 
ment, we confess that we can see no justice in 
thus ceding up to one party, what without dis- 
pute appertains as justly to the other. Under 
these circumstances, the stigma upon the British 
nation is greater, that they have not a convenient 
place in which their Protestant subjects may at- 
tend public worship after their own form. 

After having examined all that is interesting in 
the Governor's Palace, we shall next notice the 



* According to the account published in the Malta 
Government Gazette, the amount of 4i Repairs in St. 
John's Cathedral, and several chapels belonging to Go- 
vernment," was in the year 1836, £113. 3*. Id) and in 
£170. 9*. id. 



148 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



AUBERGES OF THE KNIGHTS OF MALTA. 

There was a palace or inn for each language 
of the Order where all the members, whether 
knights, serving brothers, professed or novices,, 
equally eat. The Commanders seldom went 
thither; indeed those who were possessed of a 
commandery worth two thousand Maltese dol- 
lars could not be admitted; neither could the 
servants -at -arms, if they had a commandery 
worth one thousand crowns. The chief of each 
inn was called the Pillier, and he received either 
a sum of money, or the equivalent in grain from 
the public treasury, for the provision of the mem- 
bers of his inn* The rest of the expenses were 
paid by himself, for which he was indemnified by 
the first vacant dignity in his language. 

In these edifices the knights of each nation not 
only eat, but assembled together for the purposes 
of consultation, and the transaction of business,. 
Such as preferred residing in their respective inns 
to having private houses of their own were per- 
mitted to do so; the same privilege was enjoyed 
by the brother chaplains, and the brother pages, 
in the service of the Order. 

The superior of every language was dignified 
with a distinctive title, to which were annexed 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



149 



certain functions, which we shall notice in our 
description of each inn. 

Auberge de Provence, 

The superior of this auberge was denominated 
the Grand Commander ; who, by virtue of his 
office was perpetual president of the common 
treasury, comptroller of the accounts, superin- 
tendant of stores, governor of the arsenal, and 
master of the ordnance. He had the nomination 
(subject to the approbation of the Grandmaster 
and council) of all officers from the different lan- 
guages ; and to this he added the power of ap- 
pointing persons to the various places of trust in 
the church of St. John, and in the Infirmary. 

The Auberge de Provence is situated in Strada 
Reale; it is a fine building, with a plain but im- 
posing facade. The lower apartments are at 
present appropriated for the sale of goods by 
auction, the office of one of the public auctioneers, 
&c; the upper rooms are let to the Malta Union 
Club. 

Besides the chapel which this language owned 
in the cathedral of St. John, it possessed another 
separate church, as did also several of the other 
languages. That of Santa Barbara belonged to 
the Knights of Provence ; it is situated a little 
higher up than the auberge, in the same street, 

*9 



150 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



on the opposite side. This chapel is at present 
made use of by the inhabitants. 
The next in order is the 

Auberge $ Auvergne. 

The head of this inn was called the Grand Mar- 
shal; he had the military command over all the 
Order, excepting the grand crosses or their lieu- 
tenants, the chaplains, and other persons of the 
Grandmaster's household. He entrusted the 
standard of the Order to that knight whom he 
judged most worthy such distinction. He had 
the right of appointing the principal equerry; and 
when at sea, not only commanded the general of 
the gallies, but the grand admiral himself. 

This auberge is even more simple in its struc- 
ture than the former ; and occupies a site opposite 
the side square of St. John's church, in Strada 
Reale. It is at present appropriated for the 
civil courts, and the tribunals of appeal and com- 
merce* 

Auberge of Italy. 

The superior of this language was styled the 
Admiral. In the Grand Marshal's absence, he 
had the command of the soldiery equally with the 
seamen; he also appointed the comptroller and 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



151 



secretary of the arsenal, and when he demanded 
to be named to the generalship of thegallies, the 
Grandmaster was obliged to propose him to the 
council, which was at liberty to appoint or to re- 
ject him at pleasure. 

This auberge is situated in Strada Mercanti, 
opposite to the Auberge de Castile. Over the 
entrance is a bronze bust of the Grandmaster Ca- 
rafa, with his coat of arms, and many trophies 
and ornaments of white marble, said to have been 
cut from a large pillar which once stood in the 
temple of Proserpine in the Citta Notabile. Be- 
low the bust is the following inscription : 

Gregorio Carafa Principi Optimo, 

belli pacisque artibus maxima 
post Ottomanicam classem ductu suo 
bis ad Hellespontum profligatam, 
relatasque XI. quinquerenium manubias 
ad summum Hierosolymitani Ordinis 
regimen evecto 
Itala equestris natio 
Magistrali munere sceculo 

amplius viduata 
augustam hanc effigiem 
reparatce majestatem indicem D. D* 
A. D. MDCLXXXIII. 

To this language belonged the small ehurch of 
Santa Catarina which adjoins it, having a small 

**9 



152 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



platform in front, enclosed with an iron railing. 
The principal painting in this church is that re- 
presenting Sta. Catarina; a good original by the 
Cav. Calabrese. 

The Auberge of Italy is at present occupied by 
the Civil Arsenal and the Government Printing- 
office. Opposite to this building is the 

Auberge de Castile. 

The chief of this inn was dignified with the 
title of Grand Chancellor. It belonged to his 
office always to present the Vice-chancellor to 
the council; and his presence was likewise neces- 
sary whenever any bulls were stamped with the 
great seal. Those who assumed this dignity 
were obliged to know how to read and write. 

This is the largest auberge in the city, and 
occupies a very delightful situation close under 
the walls of the ditch, commanding an extensive 
view of the country beyond. It has three en- 
trances; that to the front is ascended by a grand 
semicircular pyramidal staircase, and is sur- 
mounted with a great display of ornamental 
sculpture, consisting chiefly of warlike trophies, 
arms, musical instruments, &c. In the centre is 
a marble bust of the Grandmaster Pinto, with 
the following inscription carved on the base : 



i 



4 

ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



153 



Em. ac Seren. Princ. 
F. D. Emmanuel Pinto 
De Fonseca, 
Magisteri sui 
anno IV. 

To the knights of this language appertained 
the Church of St. James in Strada Mercanti; a 
very neat specimen of architecture, ornamented 
in a very chaste and simple style. This church, 
though but seldom used by them, is also in the 
hands of the Maltese. 

The Auberge de Castile is at present occupied 
by officers of the English Garrison. 

Auberye de France. 

The superior of this inn, during the existence 
of the Order, was called the Grand Hospitaller. 
He had the direction of the hospital, and ap- 
pointed the Overseer and Prior to the infirmary, 
and also ten writers to the council. The officers 
who filled these employments were changed 
every two years. 

The Auberge de France is situated in Strada 
Mezzodi. and is a plain, but commodious build- 
ing. It is at present the residence of the Com- 
missary General. 



154 



ITINERARY OF MALTA 



Auberge of Arragon. 

The title of the superior of this inn was the 
Draper, or the Grand Conservator. He was 
charged with every thing relative to the Conser- 
vatory, to the clothing, and to the purchase of 
all necessary articles, not only for the troops, but 
also for the hospitals. 

This building occupies a small square, with the 
front opening into Strada Vescovo. It is now 
the private residence of the chief Secretary to 
Government. 

Auberge of England, 
and 

Anglo-Bavarian. 

The head of this establishment was dignified 
with the title of the Turcopolier; he had the 
command over the cavalry, and the guards sta- 
tioned on the coast. 

While the Language of England existed, their 
inn was the building which fronts the square be- 
fore the small church of Sta. Catarina of the 
Italians on the one side, and Strada Reale on the 
other; the greatest part of it is now occupied 
by a large private bakery. After the Reforma- 
tion, when all the English commanderies were 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 155 

confiscated by order of Henry VIII. this language 
ceded up its rights, and was succeeded by the 
Anglo-Bavarian, whose inn stands on the plat- 
form of St, Lazarus, facing the entrance into the 
Quarantine harbour, This building is yery plain 
in its structure; and is at present occupied by 
officers of the British garrison. 

Auberge of Germany. 

The Grand Bailiff of the Order was the title 
given to the superior of this inn. His jurisdiction 
comprised all the fortifications of the Old City, 
and the command of the Castle of Gozo. 

This lodge is situated in Strada Ponente, and 
forms at present the private residence of the 
Chief Justice of the island. 

Having noticed all the Inns of the Order, we 
shall next direct the attention of the stranger to 

st. john's church. 

This edifice holds the first rank among the 
numerous churches and convents of Malta. It 
was built during the reign of the Grandmaster 
La Cassiera, about the year 1576, and was subse- 
quently enriched by the donations of the Grand- 
masters who succeeded him; especially by 



15,6 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

Nicholas Cotoner and Emmanuel Pinto, and 
likewise by several of the sovereigns of Europe. 
The church was consecrated by D. Ludovico 
Torres, Archbishop of Monreal; and at the first 
general chapter held at Malta, a separate chapel 
was assigned to the knights of each language. 
The facade is yery clumsy, and the ensemble 
quite monotonous. The building which adjoins 
the church on the right was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Prior of the Order; that to the left 
was tenanted by others of the clergy belonging 
to the establishment, and includes several apart- 
ments, in which were preserved the treasures of 
the church. These were mostly all seized by the 
French during their short occupation of the island. 

The interior is of an oblong form ; the upper- 
most part, which forms the choir, is ornamented 
with an admirable piece of sculpture in white 
marble, on a raised base, representing the bap- 
tism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as 
large as life. The above was from a design by 
the famous Maltese artist Melchior Caffa, and 
completed after his death by Bernini. The se- 
micircular roof which covers the nave is adorned 
with paintings illustrative of the life of the above 
mentioned apostle, by the Cavalier Mathias 
Preti, surnamed the Calabrese, by whom most 
of the paintings of the church were executed. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



157 



At present they are much defaced, and are fast 
losing their primitive beauty. This distinguished 
artist is buried before the entrance into the 
vestry. He died in January 1699. 

The pavement is composed of sepulchral slabs 
worked in mosaic with various coloured marble ; 
many of them contain jasper, agate, and other 
precious stones, the cost of which must have been 
very great. These cover chiefly the graves of 
the knights, and other servants of the Order, and 
bear each an appropriate epitaph, or rather a 
panegyric on the virtues of the deceased. 

The grand altar which stands at the uppermost 
part of the nave is very sumptuous, and deserves 
notice on account of the various coloured marble, 
and other valuable stones of which it is con- 
structed. Before it, on either side, on a raised 
pavement, stands a chair covered with a rich ca- 
nopy of crimson velvet : that to the right is oc- 
cupied by the bishop, and the one on the left is 
destined for the sovereign of the island, over 
which is placed the escutcheon of Great Britain. 
Close by the latter is a seat prepared for the 
Governor of the island. 

The chapels of the different languages of the 
Order, which run parallel with the nave, form the 
two aisles, and are very splendidily decorated, 
The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome 



158 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



in the interior, and are very profusely carved 
with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also 
are the walls. The whole was gilded during the 
reigns of Rafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears 
from an inscription over the entrance on the west 
side of the building. The arches of these chapels 
correspond on both sides, and leave their interior 
quite exposed to view as you pass down the nave. 

The first arch, on the right hand as you enter 
the church, forms a passage into the Oratory, or 
Chapel of the Crucifixion. This was set apart 
for the worship of the clergy, during the existence 
of the Order; and is now used for the same pur- 
pose. There are several fine paintings in this 
chapel, especially one behind the altar of the 
Beheading of John, the work of Michael-Angelo 
Caravaggio. The roof is remarkably chaste, and 
is not so profuse in gilded ornament as many 
other parts of the building. From this chapel a 
flight of stairs leads down to a subterraneous 
apartment, where there is a room in which stands 
a rustic altar. The floor covers several vaults, 
which were destined for the interment of Com- 
manders of the Order. 

The second arch covers the chapel of the Por- 
tuguese Knights. Over the altar is a drawing of 
St. James; and on the side walls are two other 
paintings representing some traditionary scenes 




NICOLA (dTOVt'H 




KM MA , Mi EL Q-R VIM I UNA 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 159 

in the life of that apostle. In this chapel are two 
mausoleums : one of Emmanuel Pinto, surmount- 
ed with his portrait in mosaic, and a large marble 
representation of Fame; the other, of Manoel de 
Vilhena, is by far the most costly. The whole of 
the latter is of bronze, sustained by two lions of 
the same material. On a tablet beneath his bust 
is an alto-relievo group, representing the Grand- 
master giving directions concerning the construc- 
tion of Fort Manoel, the plan of which is spread 
out before him by one of the knights. The ac- 
companying sketches will give some idea of these 
monuments. 

The third arch forms the entrance into the 
church from the eastern side, and contains no al- 
tar. The roof and walls, however, are carved 
and gilded in the same manner with the rest. 

The fourth arch leads into the chapel of the 
Spanish Knights. Over the altar is a painting 
of St. George; those on the side walls represent 
the trial and martyrdom of St. Lawrence. In 
this chapel are the mausoleums of four Grand- 
masters: Martin de Redin, Raphael Cotoner, Pe- 
rillos e Roccaful, and Nicolas Cotoner. The two 
last mentioned are very grand. That of Rocca- 
ful is surmounted by a fine copper bust, with a 
figure on each side as large as life, one represent- 
ing Justice, and the other Charity. The whole 



160 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



is adorned with warlike weapons and armour cut 
in white marble, and exhibiting a very imposing 
appearance. That of Nicolas Cotoner is equally 
grand; the monument is sustained by two slaves 
in a bending posture, one representing a Turk and 
the other an African; a very graphic delineation 
of the false views of Gospel liberty which formed 
the basis of all the crusades. 

The fifth arch leads into the chapel of the Lan- 
guage of Provence. The paintings over the altar 
represent the crucifixion of St. Sebastian; and 
the side drawings are also illustrations of some 
parts of the same history. The mausoleum of 
the Grandmaster Gersan is very simple, consist- 
ing of a black marble inscription surmounted 
with an alabaster bust. 

The sixth and uppermost arch leads into the 
small chapel of the Virgin. This, however, is not 
open to the nave, being covered with the benches 
which form the choir. The altar in this chapel 
is surrounded with a balustrade of massy silver 
posts, placed along a row of low marble pillars 
which extend the whole breadth of the room. 
Enclosed within this, on the side walls, are three 
silver plates containingthe following inscriptions, 
with a bundle of keys suspended to each. These 
as may be seen from the writing, were taken as 
trophies from the Turks by the Knights of Malta. 




JRAY VIOMDO DE PEPEM.o.s KOCAI'l'LL M M 



4 




ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



161 



K 

Deiparce Virgini ac Divo 

Baptists tutelari 
Castri Passava in Pelo- 
poneso a militibus Hieroso n ^ s vi- 
capto sub F. Ia. Dublot viverio 
triremium prafecto anno 
salu. hum<z. MDCI. die XVIII. Aug. men- 
sis F. Alofius Vignacurtius M. 
Magister tunc primum sui 
regiminis annum agens has oppidi 
claves ac signa Turcica memories 
ac pietatis ergo consecravit. 

2. 

Anno post captum Passava 
ejusdem viverii ejusdemq. 
mensis Aug. felicitate idib\ 
orto jam sole excisis portis ac 
magno militum impetu muris per 

scalas superatis capto etiam 
Hadrymeto urbes in Africa vulgo 
Hamameta idem Mag. Alofius eid. 
Em. Virgini Matri ac D. Baptistce 
quorum auspiciis hese gesta 
sunt pro gratiarum actione 
hoc monument um posuit. 



162 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



3. 

Duo Castra ad custodiam 
Corinthiaci sinus in ejus 
facib\ a barbaris ultimo 
constructa idem Alofius 
quo matris tractu sociali bello ad- 
versus Selimum Milesolim pugnave- 
rat y nunc M. Mag. an. sui principal! III. 
et Fascanio Cambriano classis prefec- 
to a suis capta diripuit. Ingentib? ad 
LXX tormentis inter alia hue inde ad~ 
vectis tant<£ igitur victories monumen- 
ta S. Victori cui auspiciis die Mi sacro earn 
acceptam referat ac Deiparce dedicavit, 

To the left hand, on entering the church, 
is a splendid copper mausoleum of the Grand- 
master Zondadari. The whole is supported by 
a marble base, and flanked with two fine pillars 
of the same material. The metal statue of the 
knight, as large as life, in a reclining posture, and 
the various ornaments which surround it, are very 
grand, and may be regarded as a first rate pro- 
duction of art. 

Walking down the left aisle, the first arch leads 
into the vestry, in which are several paintings; 
among them are the portraits in length of the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



163 



Grandmaster Pinto, La Cassiera, Perillos and 
Nicolas Cotoner. 

The second chapel is that of the Knights of 
Austria, The-altar piece represents the Adora- 
tion of the Wise Men; the pieces on the side walls 
illustrate the Murder of the Innocents, and the 
Birth of our Saviour, 

The third arch forms the western entry into 
the church. The walls of this recess are covered 
with small and neat sculpture. 

The fourth chapel is that of the Italian Knights; 
the walls are ornamented much in the same 
manner as the former. There are in this 
chapel two fine drawings of St. Jerom and Mary 
Magdalen, said to be the work of the famous Ca- 
xavaggio. The painting over the altar represents 
the espousals of the infant Jesus with St. Ca- 
therine! The only mausoleum here is that of 
the Grandmaster Carafa, which is partly of mar- 
ble and partly of copper. On the wall behind 
the bust is a prospective view in alto-relievo of 
the entry of several gallies into the harbour of 
Malta. 

The next chapel is that of the Language of the 
Knights of France. The conversion of St. Paul 
over the altar is a fine piece. The drawings on 
the side walls represent the shipwreck of St. Paul, 
and St. John in the desert. In this chapel are 

10 



164 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



the monuments of two Grandmasters, and one of 
the Prince Ludovico Philip D' Orleans, who was 
interred here in the year 1808. 

The sixth and last chapel is that of the Knights 
of Bavaria. Over the altar is a drawing of St. 
Michael and the Dragon, and on one side of the 
wall another of his miraculous appearance. The 
other side forms a small chapel in a recess, enclo- 
sed with a brass balustrade, dedicated to St. Carlo 
di Boromeo. This was used by the English 
Knights of the Order. 

From this chapel a staircase leads down 
to an underground apartment, in which are the 
tombs of several Grandmasters. Here is inter- 
red L* Isle Adam, the first commander of the 
Order in Malta. The remainder are those of La 
Valette, Wignacourt, La Cassiera, Cardinal Ver- 
dala, Ludovico Mendes de Vasconcelos, Pietro de 
Monte, and Martin de Garzes. The remains of 
these are chiefly deposited in sarcophagi of Malta 
stone, with marble covers, on some of which are 
carved full-length images of the deceased. On 
the pavement are three marble slabs with inscrip- 
tions to the memory of Claudius de la Sengle, 
Petrino aPonte, and loan, de Homedes; who, to- 
gether with several of the ab ove mentioned, were 
removed to this cemetery after the building of 
the church. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 165 

On particular days the interior of the build- 
ing is covered with a rich tapestry, which gives 
it a very splendid appearance. This article was 
presented as a gift to the church by the Grand- 
master Perellos. 

sdi baa E&kwb yhcsn el msm 

CHURCHES OF VALETTA. 

Besides the church already mentioned, there are 
three others in the city which belong to the Go- 
vernment: viz. the Church of the Jesuits in Strada 
Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco 
in Strada St. Ursola. The former of these we 
may have occasion to mention in our remarks 
on the Jesuits' college, now the Government Uni- 
versity. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the 
Knights of France. The walls of this building are 
adorned with gifts devoted to the Virgin, the 
fulfillment of vows made in time of affliction, in 
order to obtain her commiseration. The boat- 
men hold this church in peculiar veneration. 

The two parish churches of the city are those 
of St. Domenico and St. Paolo; the >former is 
connected with a monastery of Domenican friars; 
the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the 
street of the same name. The other monkish 
orders are those of the Augustinians, Carmelites, 



166 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



Franciscans, and the Miami Osservanti, or Re- 
formed Franciscans; all of which have churches 
connected with their respective convents. Be- 
sides these, there are two large nunneries, one of 
Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; hat 
the rage for this species of seclusion has very 
much subsided in Valetta. The former establish- 
ment is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving 
but very few additions. Two other churches m 
the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia, and the 
other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Pur- 
gatory) belong to the public. The Greek Catho- 
lics have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta & 
Maria, in Strada Veseovo. 

Several of these churches are ornamented with 
fine paintings, and decorated with images repre- 
senting things which are in heaven above, on the 
earth beneath, in the waters under the earth, 
and in the lower regions. To describe these, 
would be an almost endless task, and would yield 
but little interest to the general reader. 

It is calculated that the number of ordained 
priests and friars in the islands of Malta and Gozo 
exceeds one thousand; these are supported from 
the revenues of their respective churches and con- 
vents, the contributions of the people, and the 
money paid in masses for the living and the dead. 
Beside the above there are about three thousand 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



167 



Abbati preparing for ordination, who are con- 
sidered a part of the papal ecclesiastical esta- 
blishment of the island. 

In the month of February, in the year 1823, 
a very mournful event took place in one of the 
convents of Malta, no less dreadful in its effects 
than that of that of the Black-hole of Calcutta. 
The circumstance was as follows: 

It was usual in this island, on the last days of 
the Carnival, to collect together, from Valetta 
and from the three cities on the other side of the 
harbour, as many boys of the lower classes, of 
from 8 to 15 years of age, as chose to attend, — 
to form them into a procession, and to take them 
out to Floriana or elsewhere, where, after attend- 
ing service in the church, a collation of bread 
and fruit (provided from funds partly given 
by Government and partly by beneficent indivi- 
duals) was distributed to them,— and this with 
the view of keeping them out of the riot and con- 
fusion of the Carnival in the streets of the cities. 
The arrangement of this procession was under the 
control of the Ecclesiastical Directors of the In- 
stitution for teaching the Catechism. 

It appears that this procession had taken place 
on the 10th. of Feb. that the children went to 
Floriana, and from thence returned to the church 
of the Minori Osservanti in Valetta, and that the 

*10 



168 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



bread was on that day distributed in the Convent 
of that Order without any accident or confusion 
On the 11th, the procession was formed as usu- 
al; proceeded to Floriana, and returned to the 
church of the Minori Osservanti, and the bread 
was to be distributed, as on the preceding day. 
in the same convent. Unfortunately, however., 
the ceremony had been protracted to a later hour 
than usual, and it appears (the Carnival being 
over,) that a multitude of boys and full grown 
people, passing by the church and knowing that 
bread was to be distributed, mixed with the child- 
ren in the church with the view of sharing it with 
them. 

The boys were to enter the corridor of the con- 
vent from the door of the vestry of the church ? 
and were to be let out through the opposite door of 
the convent in Strada St. Ursola, where the bread 
was to be distributed; and it had been customary, 
when they were collected in the corridor, to lock 
the door of the vestry, for the purpose of prevent- 
ing those boys who had received the share of the 
bread from entering the second time into the 
corridor. 

On the door of the vestry, however, being 
thrown open on the present occasion, which took 
place about sun-set, after the entrance of the boys, 
who originally attended the procession, and who 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



169 



could not have exceeded one hundred, the whole 
multitude of men and boys, who had subsequently- 
entered the church, forced themselves into the 
corridor to an unknown extent, and pressed upon 
the foremost, pushing them gradually to the other 
end of the corridor, where the door was only half 
open, with the view of letting out one at a time. 

As soon as the people had all entered the cor- 
ridor, the vestry door was as usual locked, and, 
though there was one lamp lighted in the corri- 
dor, it appears, by some accident, to have been 
early put out — thus leaving this immense crowd 
entirely in the dark; — and there being unfortu- 
nately a flight of eight steps within the half closed 
door, at the opposite end of the corridor, the 
crowd behind, who pressed upon the foremost, 
forced the boys down the steps, who fell one up- 
on the other, thus unfortunately choaking up the 
half-shut door at the bottom (which opened in- 
wards,) and adding to the distress. 

The shrieks of the children were soon heard by 
the persons employed in the distribution of the 
bread which they had commenced issuing, and by 
the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, — and it 
appears that every aid was immediately given. 
Some persons, after endeavouring in vain to get 
the boys out of the half closed door, rushed into 
the church and got the keys of the vestry door 3 . 

**10 



170 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



which was then opened; — while others entered 
the corridor from the vestry, passed through the 
crowd to the other end, and broke down the door 
at the bottom of the steps; — but unfortunately 
their exertions were not in time to save the un- 
happy sufferers. 

Many, however, were taken out fainting and 
soon recovered; others apparently lifeless were 
afterwards brought to their senses; but, sad to re- 
late, one hundred and ten boys of from 8 to 15 
years of age perished on this occasion from suffo- 
cation, by being pressed together in so small a 
space* or trampled upon. 



HOSPITALS. 

The present Military Hospital, situated at the 
lower extremity of Strada Mercanti, was former- 
ly the public building used for the reception of 
the sick by the Knights of Malta. It is a very 
commodious edifice, containing many ranges of 
rooms, disposed in excellent order for the free 
circulation of air, with a spacious court, in the 
centre of which is a good fountain. During the 
existence of the Order, this establishment was 
open to strangers as well as to the citizens, for 
whom suitable accommodations were proyided* 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



171 



The sick were regularly attended by the knights 
in person, provided with medicines and medical 
assistance free of expense, and their food served 
up to them in vessels of silver. Here also was 
a provision made for foundlings. 

The direction of this institution, after the 
Grandmaster, was committed to the chief Hos- 
pitaller, which dignity appertained to the French 
knights. To him belonged the election of the 
Overseer of the Infirmary, the Prior, and other 
ministers. The Overseer generally resided in 
the Hospital ; to the Prior was committed the 
charge of the spiritual concerns of the patients, 
and the other ecclesiastical servants helped in as- 
sisting the sick, and in celebrating the sacrament 
in the different wards. To the right hand, on 
entering the chief gate of the Hospital, was the 
Pharmacy of the establishment, well supplied 
with all kind of drugs and medicines. This is used 
for the same purpose at the present day. 

On the arrival of the French, they seized upon 
all the plate which was to be found in the esta- 
blishment, and converted the building into a 
Military Hospital. The inhabitants being obliged 
to demand another, the Nunnery of Sta. Madda- 
lena was given them, the nuns promptly yielding 
I up their residence for the purpose, some of whom 



172 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



retired in to the Monastery of Sta. Catarina, and 
others went to their homes. 

Close by was the cemetery for all persons who 
died in the Hospital, and adjoins a small church 
called the Church of the Cemetery, founded by the 
Commendatore Fra Giorgio Nibbia, who is him- 
self buried there. Upon a part of the locality 
which formed the burial-ground is now built a 
semicircular building, set apart for dissection, and 
practical lessons in anatomy, to the students who 
attend the Government University. By the side 
of this is a very extensive charnel-house, contain- 
ing many thousand sculls and human bones, 
which have been dug up from time to time out 
of the cemetery. 

Close to the above is the public Female Hos- 
pital, founded in the year 1646 by the Lady 
Catarina Scoppi Senese, who bequeathed the 
building to the public, and endowed it with all 
her wealth. This institution was likewise under 
the direction of two knights of the Order, who 
were called Commissioners. At present it serves 
the same purpose as formerly, and the sick are 
attended to with every possible care. 

Opposite this building is the public Male Hos- 
pital, which in the time of the Order, as I have 
mentioned above, was a Nunnery of The Peni- 
tents, dedicated to Sta. Maria Maddalena. Whilst 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



173 



this establishment existed, by order of the Pope, 
it was partly supported by the fifth portion of 
the inheritance of prostitutes. The church which 
adjoined it is now made use of as a ward for the 
wounded, and such as have broken limbs. Both 
Hospitals are at present under the direction of 
the local government, who employ all the funds 
which were left to their support for the purpose 
of rendering a very possible assistance to the 
poor who apply for admittance. Twice a week 
the relations and friends of the sick are permitted 
to visit any whom they may have in the Hospi- 
tal, but are obliged to undergo the strictest search 
lest they carry in something concealed about 
their persons, which might be injurious to those 
under medical treatment. 

Opposite the Military Hospital is another 
large building, which is at present occupied by 
private families. The part to the right was for- 
merly called La Camarata, where a number of 
the more pious knights were accustomed to re- 
side, and where they assembled together at stated 
hours for devotion. The left division, called La 
Lingerie, was set apart as a magazine for the linen 
and other articles required for the service of the 
Hospital. Here also the bedding and clothing 
of the patients were washed. This building was 



174 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



erected in the year 1593 under the Grandmaster 
Cardinal Verdala, and subsequently repaired du- 
ring the reign of the Grandmaster Lascaris. 

MONTE DI FIETa\ 
or 

PUBLIC PAWNBROKERY. 

This institution occupies a large building in 
Strada Mercanti, opposite the house called II 
Banco del Giurati. It was originally established 
in the year 1597, and like all institutions of the 
sort in other parts of Europe, particularly at 
Rome, with the object of affording pecuniary 
relief to the distressed at reasonable interest, 
thereby preventing them from having recourse 
to usurious contracts. Any sum of money, 
however small, is advanced to applicants on the 
security of property given in pawn, such as gold, 
silver, and other precious articles, or wearing 
apparel, whether worn or new. The period of 
the loan is for three years on pawns of the first 
description, and nevermore than two on those of 
the latter, renewable at the option of the parties, 
who are also at liberty to redeem their pawns at 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



175 



any time within the period on payment of inter- 
est in proportion. The rate of interest now 
charged is 6 per cent per annum. The unclaim- 
ed pawns, at the expiration of the period, are 
sold by public auction, and the residue of the 
proceeds, after deducting the sum due to the in- 
stitution, is payable to the person producing the 
respective tickets. Of the accommodation thus 
afforded by the Monte not unfrequently persons 
in better circumstances have availed for any mo- 
mentary exigency ; and in this way considerable 
sums have been advanced. Till the year 1787 
the operations of this institution were conducted 
by means of money borrowed at a moderate in- 
terest, and by funds acquired by donations, &c. 
But the Grandmaster Rohan authorized the con- 
solidation of the funds of the Monte di Piet& 
with those of the Monte di Redenzione, another 
institution, equally national, founded in the year 
1607 by private donations and bequests, for the 
philanthropic object of rescuing from slavery any 
of the natives who might fall into the hands of 
the Mohammedans not having means of ransom. 
As this institution had larger funds (mostly in 
landed property) than it actually required to 
meet all demands, the act of consolidation proved 
of the greatest advantage to the Monte di Pieta. 
Thus united the two institutions, with the new 



176 



ITINERARY OF MALTA . 



title of Monte di Pieta e Redenzione, conducted 
their separate duties under the superintendence 
of a board consisting of a President and eight 
Commissaries, till the expulsion of the Order of 
St. John from Malta, which happened in the 
year 1 798. The French Republicans by whom 
the island was then occupied stripped the Monte 
of every article whether in money or pawns, and 
the loss sustained by the institution on that un- 
fortunate occasion amounted nearly to £35,000 
sterling, including the share of the proprietors of 
pawns, in as much as the advance they received 
on that security never exceeded one half or two- 
thirds of the value of the articles paw r ned. It is 
needless to state that not a shilling of this sum 
was repaid by the French Government after the 
occupation of the island by the English. 

When the British forces took possession of 
La Valette in September 1800, it was one of the 
first cares of the head of the Government to see 
this useful institution resume its operations; ac- 
cordingly a new board was elected, and about 
four thousand pounds advanced to them (with- 
out interest) from the local treasury. A loan 
was opened to which individuals did not hesitate 
to contribute when they were assured that the 
institution considered itself bound to pay the old 
loan though forming part of the amount carried 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 177 

away by the French, and that in the mean time 
interest would be paid on it. The Monte pos- 
sessing landed property to a much greater amount 
could never refuse such an act of justice. Hap- 
pily the cessation of slavery having put an end 
to the old charge for ransoms enabled the insti- 
tution to devote its revenues to the payment of 
interest on the old loan to the extinction of 
part of the capital to the improvement of its 
property, and, for the last fourteen years, to as- 
sign a subsidy in aid of the expense of the House 
of Industry. 

The Administration of the Monte di Pieta e 
Redenzione was by a Minute of the Governor 
dated the 27th. December 1837, vested, from the 
1st. January 1838, in the Committee of the Go- 
vernment Charitable Institutions ; instead of the 
former board consisting of a President and six 
Commissaries. 



178 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



GOVERNMENT UNIVERSITY 

formerly 
the jesuits' college* 

It was during a very tumultuous and seditious 
time in the era of the Knights of Malta, that the 
Jesuits were called in by Bishop Gargallo, to sup- 
port him against the power of the Order. This 
learned and artful body of men soon gained the 
same ascendancy in Malta as in every other 
place where they have ever been established. 
In order to provide them with a permament 
settlement in the island, the above prelate erect- 
ed for them the present church and college, the 
foundation of which was laid on the 12th. of 
November 1592, during the reign of the Grand- 
master Verdala. 

The Jesuits, how r ever, did not long enjoy their 
power in Malta. Forty-seven years after their 
introduction, an affair took place which termi- 
nated in their expulsion. Some young knights, 
who had just ceased acting as pages, disguised 
themselves as Jesuits during the Carnival. This so 
offended the holy fathers, that they made their 
complaints to Lascaris the Grandmaster, who im- 
mediately gave orders that some of the youth 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



179 



should be apprehended. This act enraged their 
companions, who proceeded first to the prison, 
the gates of which they forced, and after libe- 
rating their companions from their confinement, 
proceeded in a body to the college, threw the 
furniture out of the windows, and compelled the 
Grandmaster to send the Jesuits out of the island. 
Eleven of them were accordingly embarked ; but 
four contrived to secrete themselves in the city 
where they remained. This event occurred in 
the year 1639; their total expulsion did not take 
place until the year 1769, after which the insti- 
tution became subject to the Order, and from 
them was transferred over to the direction of 
the British Government. 

The university and church occupy an extensive 
site surrounded by four principal streets. The 
latter is a very regular and neatly ornamented 
building, containing several paintings by the Ca- 
valier Calabrese. To the left of the southern 
entrance, over which is the inscription, "In nomi- 
ne Jesu omne genu fleet atur," is the Oratory, 
where the Jesuits held their secret council. In 
1803, the Governor Sir A. Ball instituted the 
Merchants 5 Bank in one angle of this edifice, 
which was considered as a great piece of injustice 
by the Maltese, who perhaps did not esteem the 
proceeding so much a desecration of the locality, 

*** 10 



180 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



as delude themselves that it was an infringement 
on their rights. The decision of the existing go- 
vernment carried through the design. The Mer- 
chants' Bank and Commercial Rooms now 
occupy a part of the building. 

In giving the reader a short sketch of the pre- 
sent state of the University we cannot do better 
than make some extracts from one of the num- 
bers of the Mediterraneo, which usually devotes 
a liberal space in its columns to the important 
article of the education of the people. 

"At the head of the University there is a Rec- 
tor, who is a clergyman, and who governs it by 
an old statute, w r hich, not being at all adapted 
to the changes which have taken place, and to 
the actual state of things, offers thousand occa- 
sions of arbitrary deviations. 

A council composed of eleven members, no- 
minated by the Governor, of which he is himself 
the head, presides over its affairs. The Rector 
is, ex officio, a member of this council. 

The Professors are sworn in annually by the 
Bishop, according to the doctrine of the Council 
of Trent. 

The University has a Confessor for the youth; 
and the duty of confession is made a consideration 
in the examinations. 

The funds of the University having passed into 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



181 



the hands of Government, they are charged with 
its support; the stipend of the Professors is 3Z. 2.5. 
6d. per month. The Masters of the Lyceum re- 
ceive 21. Is. 8d. Some Masters on account of 
particular duties have 42. 3s. 8d. and the Master 
of the English language 51. The Teachers of Ca- 
ligraphy and Arithmetic have 16s. 8d. each. The 
monthly salary of the Rector is 61. 13s. 4d. that of 
the Confessor 1Z. lOd. of the Prefect 11. 5s. of 
the Procurator 21. Is. 8d. the Beadle 17. 13s. id. 
andof the Door-keeper 1Z. 5s. Doctorships and 
diplomas, &c. of foreign countries, and even of 
England, are not admitted. Five pounds are paid 
for taking a Doctor's degree, and one pound for 
the Government license. 

The youth of the Lyceum pay one shilling a 
month each; those of the University two shillings 
and sixpence each. As the course of the study 
for the attainment of the degrees cannot be short- 
er than twelve years, it costs every student for the 
obtaining of his degrees £5, in monthly pay- 
ments £18, for the Government license £1, which 
together amounts to £24; a greater sum than 
is paid for similar degrees at the first University 
of Italy. 

The number of students at the Lyceum does 
not now surpass that of from 90 to 100 ; — that 
of the University from 80 to 85. It has been 

11 



182 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



remarked that the number in students of the 
Lyceum has been always diminishing. 

According to the present establishment, the 
preparatory school to the Philosophical Faculty 
consists of eleven Masterships; viz. Elementary 
school of the Latin language, Humanity, Rheto- 
ric, Italian, English, Greek and Arabic langua- 
ges, Navigation and Elements of Mathematics* 
Arithmetic and Caligraphy, Ornamental Design 
.and the Principles of Architecture. The course 
of instruction in the Philosophy of Science con- 
sists of four Professorships; this instruction is 
preparatory to the faculties, and the course occu- 
pies three years. The Faculty of Theology 
includes four Professorships; that of the Holy 
Scriptures is nothing more than a class of the 
Hebrew language and even this, a disgrace to the 
nation, but more especially to the ecclesiastics, is 
to be abolished by the new reorganization of the 
University. The Faculty of Law also numbers 
four Professorships, and the Faculty of Medicine 
five. 

The many abuses exfcting in this institution 
was a chief article in the petition which the Mal- 
tese lately laid before the House of Commons. 
The Commissioners sent out to examine into 
this, as well as into other grievances of the peo- 
ple, saw the necessity of a reform, and through 



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183 



their representations some changes are to take 
place, which will come into operation on the 1st. 
of January 1839. According to the outline of 
the new organization, as published in the Go- 
vernment Gazette, the University will consist of 
Professors in the four Faculties of Arts, Theolo- 
gy, Law and Medicine. The Faculties of Theo- 
logy and Law w r ill be reduced to two Professor- 
ships; and several changes are to take place in 
the Masterships of the Lyceum. 

The existing council is to be abolished, and a 
special one formed for each of the four faculties 
of the University, composed of the Rector, the 
Professors of the Faculty, and two non-profess- 
ional Members chosen by the Governor. Be- 
sides which there will be a General Council com- 
posed of the Rector, and a Committee chosen 
from the Special Councils, proportionally to their 
respective Members, the Members of which 
Committee will be chosen by the Governor, or 
by lot. 

The Government Library will be deemed the 
Library of the University, and will beplaced under 
the controul of the Rector, who is still to have 
the principal administration of the University 
and Lyceum, 



184 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



PUBLIC AND GARRISON LIBRARIES. 

The building which encloses the above two 
establishments adjoins the Governor's Palace, 
and is one of the finest specimens of architect- 
ure in the town. The style of the whole edifice 
is grand and regular; and the arcade which ex- 
tends along its whole length forms a delightful 
portico, and gives the facade a very imposing 
appearance. This structure was erected during 
the reign of the Grandmaster Rohan, but was 
not made use of as a library until the year 1811, 
when Sir H. Oakes, the British Governor, had 
all the books transported from their former in- 
commodious lodging, near the Public Treasury, 
to their present situation. 

The Public Library had its origin in the Bailiff 
Ludovico Guerin de Tencin, who endowed it 
with a great number of his own books, and pro- 
cured for it vast legacies of literature from other 
sources. Not being able to make a sufficient 
provision for its maintenance at his death, it was 
made over to the Order, and afterwards enriched 
by the private libraries of the Knights, who at 
their decease were obliged to bequeath all their 
books to this institution. The number of vol- 
umes now existing is about 39,000. 

In such a collection, as one might expect from 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



the manner in which it was brought together, 
there are many books of very little worth; how- 
ever, any person desirous of examining the re- 
cords of antiquity, or of traversing the extensive 
fields of the scientifical research of by-gone days, 
or of deriving amusement from the peregrina- 
tions and voyages of the ancients, or of studying 
long treatises on military tactics and enginery, — 
all the intermediate tastes from the most zea- 
lous disciple of Euclid, to the most pitiable novel 
reader, — may here find ample provision to satisfy 
his most enlarged desires. In fact, one may find 
almost any thing but new books. 

The works in this Library are written princi- 
pally in Latin, French and Italian; however, there 
is a small collection of English literature, and a 
few books in other European languages. 

In the same room with the Library is alsa 
kept a small collection of antiquities and curiosi- 
ties, found at various times in this island and at 
Gozo, together with a few birds, a wolf, a wild 
cat and a snake, all stuffed. The principal an- 
tiquities are the following: 

Several Phoenician and other coins or medals 
which are not generally exposed, but kept under 
the care of the Librarian. 

Several earthen jugs and lachrymatories, upon 
one of which certain Phoenician letters are per- 
ceivable although illegible, 



188 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



A statue of Hercules of Parian marble in very 
good condition. The god is crowned with a 
garland of poplar, reclining on his club, and ex- 
hibiting a very calm and placid countenance. 

A square altar dedicated to Proserpine, on 
one of the sides of which two men are represent- 
ed as offering a fish to the goddess; and on an- 
other is the emblem by which the Syracusans 
designed Sicily. It consists of a head from which 
issue three legs, so disposed as to form the three 
extremities of a triangle. 

A Phoenician Inscription on two pieces of mar- 
ble, which has been differently translated by the 
several persons who have made the attempt; 
an undeniable proof that very little is known m 
our days of the ancient Punic. These monu- 
ments contain also a Greek inscription; but the 
genuineness of both has been much questioned. 

A small brass figure, found at Gozo, represent- 
ing a young beggar seated in a basket, which is 
covered with large letters, as also is the tippet 
which is thrown over his shoulders. These 
letters appear to be a compound of Greek and 
Gothic characters, and are very difficult to 
decipher. An ingenuous writer thought he dis- 
covered on it the figure of the cross, preceded by 
the word ®YflEI for ETTflH, which together he 
renders Le Seigneur fut frappe. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



187 



A small marble figure found at Gozo repre- 
senting the wolf suckling Romulus and Remus. 

A marble slab containing two basso-relievo fi- 
gures representing Tullia and Claudia, the former 
the daughter of Cicero, the latter the wife of 
Cecilius Metellus, who both lived at the same 
time. The inscriptions on this monument are 
very plain: one is tvliola *m *tvllii *f * and 
the other clavdia *metelli. 

Another square marble stone containing a bust 
in basso-relievo of Zenobia, wife of Odenat, King 
of Palmyra. The inscription which surrounds 
this figure is in good preservation; it reads, 
zenobia *orienti *domina) and bears the date 

AN * DNI * CCLXXVI. 

Besides the above there are several other 
Greek and Latin inscriptions, not very perfect, 
and of little import. 

This library is open to the public five hours 
every day, Saturday and the principal feast-days 
excepted. Any person wishing to read here 
makes known to the librarian what book he de- 
sires, and is then at liberty to sit until the hour 
appointed for closing the room. Subscribers 
paying the sum of 10s. yearly are permitted to 
take any books home, the time allowed for their 
retention being regulated according to the size 
of the work. 

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188 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



The Garrison Library which occupies a small 
room in the same building consists at present 
of about 5000 volumes of English literature. 
There are also a fe^ works in French and Italian. 
Any person wishing to subscribe is to write his 
name in a book kept by the Secretary, which is 
submitted to the Committee for approval. The 
entrance money of all officers and gentlemen 
holding civil appointments is respectively to be 
a sum equivalent to two days' pay, as well civil 
as military; the annual subscription of such is 305. 
sterling. No entrance money is required from 
private persons who may wish to subscribe. 
Temporary subscribers are obliged to pay the 
sum of 5s. monthly. 

The great convenience in this institution are 
the newspapers and periodicals, of which it pro- 
vides a good supply. These must remain on the 
Library table eight days before being put into 
drculation, during which time they are free to 
any subscriber who may wish to read them. For 
this purpose a Reading-room is provided, which 
is open nine hours a day in winter, and twelve 
in summer. 

PUBLIC THEATRE. 

This building is situated in the street named 
after it Strada Teairo. It was erected by the 



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189 



Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena in the year 1731 , 
but presents nothing remarkable in its exterior 
or interior construction. Government grants the 
use of the Theatre gratis, and it is supplied almost 
all the year round with Italian operas. Occa- 
sionally the Naval and the Military officers of 
the garrison exhibit themselves as actors on the 
stage for the amusement of the public. 

It will be allowed by all, that the intention of 
most players in acting is to procure money, and 
of the company in attending the theatre is to 
seek amusement. Hence it will be found here, as 
every where else, that the plays performed gene- 
rally correspond with the taste of the audience; 
and there is no doubt that the performance of 
Cinderella and the Glass Slipper would find more 
votaries among the inhabitants of Malta, than 
one of Shakespeare's dramas, or even a tragedy 
of Alfieri. 

CASTELLANIA. 

In this public edifice is held the Criminal 
Court, the Courts of the Magistrates of Judicial 
Police, and also the Office of the Magistrate of 
Executive Police. It is situated in Strada Mer- 
eanti, and was rebuilt by the Grandmaster 
I Emmanuel Pinto in the year 1758, as appears 
from an inscription over the entrance, In 



190 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



the same street, opposite the Monte di Pietk, 
is the 

BANCO DEI GIURATI. 

In the time of the Order, the office of the 
Magistracy for supplying the inhabitants with 
corn and other articles of food, and for fixing the 
market-prices was held in this building. This 
court consisted of four native Magistrates elect- 
ed by the Grandmaster, and was presided over by 
a Bailiff Seneschal. Until the late abolition of the 
corn monopoly under the British government, 
the office of the Grain Department was held 
here. At present it only contains the archives 
of all the public and official writings belonging 
to deceased Notaries. 

QUARANTINE HARBOUR AND 
LAZARETTO. 

The gate called Marsamuscetto leads down a 
long flight of stairs, and over a drawbridge, to the 
shore of the Quarantine Harbour. Here is a 
large building, the upper part of which is occu- 
pied by the Health Office, and that of the Cap- 
tain of the Port; and the lower floor is divided 
into separate open apartments, where the captains 
of vessels in quarantine generally come with their 
boats in order to transact business with the peo- 
ple of the town. This is called the Parlatorio 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



]91 



and each room is provided with two wooden 
rails in order to prevent the parties from coming 
in contact with each other. 

Taking a boat we may cross over to visit the 
Lazaretto, accompanied by a guardiano, whose 
business it is to see that we do not infringe any 
of the sanitary laws. Before landing, this per- 
son must demand permission at the Quarantine 
Office, and if there is no objection, we are at li- 
berty to proceed and call upon any friend whom 
we may have undergoing his imprisonment in 
this establishment. Each division of the build- 
ing is provided with a small room close to the 
shore, where persons are permitted to converse 
with each other, under the same restrictions as 
mentioned in the Parlatorio. The fixed regula- 
tion in regard to the payment of boats in this 
harbour frees tiie stranger from the annoyance 
he usually meets with from the boatmen in the 
other. The price is 6d. for each half hour. 

On arriving in a vessel from a suspected port, 
the traveller is invited by one of the officers of 
the establishment to land and visit the apart- 
ment where he is destined to pass his quarantine. 
In case he wishes to hire furniture over and above 
that provided by the Government, consisting of 
a table, two chairs, and two bed-boards and tres- 
tles, he may do so from a person privileged for 



192 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



the purpose, who, at a pretty high rate, will 
supply him with any thing he may require. In 
regard to food, should the person not possess the 
means of ordering a breakfast and dinner at the 
high rate charged by the Trattoria connected 
with the Lazaretto, he stands a good chance 
of suffering from hunger, unless he has friends 
in the town who will undertake to supply him; 
because the only plan by which he may other- 
wise procure it, through caterers, is so badly re- 
gulated, as frequently to occasion the greatest 
inconvenience to travellers. As the guardiano 
placed over you is not allowed to serve in any 
way, (though you are obliged to pay him a sala- 
ry, besides supplying him with food) one must 
almost necessarily hire a servant, who may 
charge as much as 2s. 3c?. per day. In the 
latter case, however, the sum to be awarded is 
according to agreement; but as it regards the 
guardiano, the price is fixed by the Government. 

The day on which the passenger lands begins 
to count as the first of his term; but should he 
neglect to open his trunks, &c. in order to air 
his baggage on this day, he runs the risk of being 
detained a day longer. The morning of the ter- 
mination of his quarantine goes into the account 
as one day, and he is permitted at an early hour 
to leave for the city. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



193 



The chief part of the magazines and other 
buildings of the Lazaretto were built by the 
Grandmaster Lascaris, but have been lately 
much improved by the British Government. 
They occupy a site on a small island which is 
joined to the mainland on the western side by a 
stone bridge. On the same island stands a 
strong bulwark called 

FORT MANOEL. 

This fortress was erected by the Grandmaster 
Ant. Manoel de Vilhena, in the year 1726, as 
appears from an inscription over the entrance, 
surmounted by a copper bust of the founder. 
The walls of this fort are very strong, enclosing 
a spacious yard, in which are three ranges of 
buildings, each containing two rows of apart- 
ments, capable of lodging a garrison five hundred 
strong. Adjoining one of the above buildings is 
a small church, dedicated to St. Anthony of Pa- 
dova, at present only used occasionally by some 
clergyman who may happen to be in quarantine. 

In the centre of the court stands a bronze sta- 
tue of the Grandmaster Vilhena, on a high square 
base, containing an elaborate eulogy, on its four 
sides, of the virtues and mighty deeds of the 
founder. The observation of Sig. D' Avalos in 
regard to this monument is worthy of notice. 



194 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



He suggests that it should be transplanted over 
to some conspicuous place in Valetta, in order 
to embellish the city; as, where it now stands, 
it is almost buried, and can neither be seen nor 
admired by the public. 

On account of the increasing concourse of 
strangers to the island, this fort was recently ap- 
propriated to the service of a Lazaretto, for which 
purpose it is at present used. These quarters 
are much to be preferred to those already de- 
scribed, as they possess all the conveniences of 
the other, together with good air and a spacious 
square to walk in. 

The Quarantine regulations of Malta are very 
strict, so that although persons and vessels af- 
fected with the plague have several times been 
entertained in the establishment, such have been 
the precautions taken, that no accident has ever 
been known to occur through improvidence or 
neglect 

To the north-east of Fort Manoel, on the point 
called Cape Dragut, in memory of that famous 
corsair who was slain here during the great siege 
of Malta, stands another called 

fort tigne'. 

This fortress was erected in the year 1796, un- 
der the direction of the Commander Tousard, and 



ITINERARY OF MALTA.. 



195 



named after the Cavalier Tign6, the engineer 
who planned the design of the barracks of St, 
Elmo. This fort was built in order to act in 
junction with the castle of St. Elmo for the de- 
fence of the entrance into the quarantine harbour. 
Though small, it is very strongly fortified, and 
is extensively mined. The mines are cut out 
of the solid rock, and have two outlets: one by 
the side of the stair-case which leads up to the 
fort, and the other, at some distance from it, near 
the beach on the north. On the top of the fort 
are four entrances leading down to the mines 
underneath, which separate in four directions ac- 
cording to the points of the compass. These pas- 
sages are again separated into smaller divisions, 
containing apartments for the deposit of the 
powder destined to blow up the fort in case of 
its seizure by an enemy. It is at present garri- 
soned by a small body of artillery, and a com- 
pany of the line. 

TOUR ROUND THE WALLS OF VALETTA. 

Before taking leave of the city I would in- 
vite the stranger to a walk round the walls, es- 
pecially those which overlook the ditch, where 
are several monuments raised to the memory of 
various deceased governors of the island, and 



196 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



other illustrious persons. Under the bastions of 
St. Michael lie the remains of Capt. Spencer, R. 
N. to whose memory a pillar was also erected 
on the heights of Coradino, in the Great Harbour. 
Below this is another monument, projected by 
the Maltese, to the memory of the late governor 
Sir F. C. Ponsonby. The expenses of this work 
were defrayed by public subscription. 

Under the cavalier St. John, within a small 
grove of trees, is the tomb which encloses part 
of the remains of the Marquis of Hastings, who 
governed this island previous to the appointment 
of Sir F. C. Ponsonby. Beyond this is the New 
Baracca, a kind of parterre, where several other 
monuments are erected to the memory of noble 
personages, and where the ashes of the late Go- 
vernor Sir Thomas Maitland repose in a seclu- 
ded part. 

The view from this place is very extensive and 
beautiful, and as it overlooks the Great Harbour 
and its several creeks, with the sight of vessels 
of every size anchored therein, — the three towns 
which are directly opposite, the castles which 
defend the port, the Marina, the Floriana suburbs, 
and a great part of the country, — it forms one of 
the most pleasant and agreeable places of resort 
which the city affords. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



197 



On the walls of the town which defend the en- 
trance of the Great Harbour is the Old Baracca, 
in which is planted a grove of trees surrounding 
a massy monument, raised to perpetuate the 
memory of Sir J. Ball, late Governor of the island. 
This also is a place of public concourse, enjoy- 
ing a very pleasant view of the sea and of the 
harbour. 

Having finished the tour of the most inter- 
esting localities in the city, we invite the stranger 
to a walk without the city gates, in the direction 
of the suburbs called 

FLORIANA. 

This place is surrounded with strong fortifica- 
tions planned and superintended by the engineer 
Col. P. P. Floriani, sent from Rome by the Pope, 
at the urgent request of the Grandmaster, in the 
year 1635. It is provided with four gates; one 
leading up from the beach called Delia Marina; 
two others opening in the direction of the coun- 
try, one called Dei Cani or St. Anns Gate, 
and the other Delle Pera or Notre Dame Gate, 
after the emblem on the escutcheon of the Grand- 
i master Perellos, which consisted of three pears ; 

* * * 2j 



198 



ITINERARY OP MALTA. 



and a fourth enclosing the advanced works call- 
ed Des Bombes. On the outer front of the latter 
are to be seen the impress of several balls, which 
were fired by the Maltese when they blockaded 
the town against the French. 

The open unoccupied space within these forti- 
fications is divided by a long narrow enclosure, 
dignified with the title of the Botanical Garden, 
This is a scene of public resort, and serves more 
as a pleasant walk than a place for the study of 
botany. There are, howeyer, a number of flow- 
ers collected here, and even a little green spot 
in Malta may be likened to an oasis in the desert. 

Near the above is another garden, called 
D'Argotti, situate within the precints of the walls, 
which owes its improvements to the late Gene- 
ral Villette. Though not quite so abundant in 
flowers as the former, it is much more extensive, 
contains more wood, and combines some of the 
beauties of native rural scenery with the embel- 
lishments of art. There is a convenient villa ad- 
joining this garden, which is occasionally occupied 
by persons holding high offices in the island. 

Not far from the latter is another garden, con- 
nected with the Government University. This, 
though much smaller than the two former, con- 
tains a larger variety of rare and valuable bota- 
nical productions. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



199 



HOUSE OF INDUSTRY, 

This building, erected by the Grandmaster 
Manoel de Vilhena, was originally intended as a 
Conservatory for poor girls, where they were 
taught to do a little work, and in other respects 
to perform all the offices of nuns. In 1825 this 
establishment underwent an entire reform, and 
until very lately was in a very thriving condition 
as regards the occupation of its inmates. A great 
diversity of labour was done here, such as weav- 
ing, knitting, making lace, sewing, washing, shoe- 
making, straw-plaiting, se gar-making, and many 
other very useful branches of female manufacture. 
The girls, however, were never allowed to go out, 
unless under the conduct of the Lady Superior, 
and in this respect the establishment differed little 
from a nunnery. In case any application should 
be made for a servant, it was left to the option of 
some one chosen for the purpose, whether she 
would accept the situation. But the training 
which these girls received here was not at all cal- 
culated to fit them to be useful in household 
work. Another means by which they might be 
liberated was by marriage. A respectable young 
man desiring a wife, and holding acquaintance 
with any young woman in this establishment, 

12 



200 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



might request her in marriage, and she was quite 
at liberty to leave, if she chose, for this purpose. 

Since the breaking out of the cholera, which 
took place last year, and which necessitated the 
temporary dispersion of the inmates, this institu- 
tion has not assumed its former system. A great 
number of the best workwomen have left, and 
those who remain are only occupied in making 
clothes for themselves, and other labour connect- 
ed directly with the establishment. One hour 
daily is set apart for teaching them to read and 
write. 

The lower part of the back side of this build- 
ing forms a barrack for a regiment of the British 
garrison. 

ASYLUM FOR THE AGED. 

Descending a long staircase close by the bar* 
racks, the traveller passes through a gate called 
La Polverista, which leads him to this establish- 
ment. It was erected by the same Grandmaster 
who founded the above mentioned institution, in 
the year 1734, and is now under the direction of 
the local government. Here are collected a great 
number of old and infirm persons, who are furnish- 
ed with all the necessaries of life, and provided 
for as long as they liye. Each one is supplied 
with a bed, a trunk for his clothing, and a stool, j 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



201 



The ringing of a bell calls them together for their 
meals; and it is a most interesting sight to see a 
long table lined with hoary heads sitting down 
to eat, apparently happy and comfortable in the 
last stage of their earthly existence. The aged 
females are kept separate from the males. Ad- 
joining this institution is another, destined for the 
reception of lunatics and maniacs. 

The open space before this building has lately 
been planted with trees and flowers, which makes 
it a very pleasant and agreeable walk. Follow- 
ing the pathway which leads from the Asylum, the 
traveller reaches the house and garden called 

SA MAISON. 

This is a delightful spot, possessing a most 
charming view of the Quarantine harbour, the 
Pieta, and the country beyond. The garden, 
though small, is laid out with exquisite taste, 
and is well supplied with flowers and fruits. The 
battlement which encloses it on one side is almost 
covered with ivy, giving it at a distance a most 
beautiful appearance. This house belongs to go- 
vernment, and is generally hired as a country-seat 
by some of the gentry of the island. 

Beneath the bastion, which extends along the 
Poor Asylum to this villa, is a very massy arch, 



202 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

leading down to the shore of the Quarantine Har- 
bour. The architecture of this piece of work- 
manship is very much admired by conoisseurs; 
the curve is of a tortuous and oblique form, 
and extends over a space about thirty feet in 
width. It was thrown by the Maltese engineer 
Barbara, who assisted Colonel Floriani in the 
erection of the fortifications which surround 
these suburbs. 

PROTESTANT BURIAL GROUND. 

A gate which bounds the precints of the Poor 
Asylum leads down to this repose of the dead- 
Two extensive enclosures have already been filled 
up with the mortality of English residents, and a 
third, opened about ten years ago, is rapidly oc- 
cupying its space with the bones of our country- 
men. This latter is planted with flowers and 
trees, and contains many sumptuous monuments, 
the only seniority which the noble can now boast 
over the base, or the rich over the poor. Here 
repose many who sought in a foreign country 
a more genial climate for diseased nature, but 
whose destiny it was to be borne by strangers to 
their long home. Here they rest as quiet as in 
the sepulchre of their fathers, and will sleep on» 
blended with other dust, until the resurrection 
morn. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



203 



Let not the passer by neglect to receive the les- 
son which this place affords, and which is very 
simply inculcated on one of the tombs, in the 
following stanza: 

Stop, traveller, stop, ere you go by, 
As you are now, so once was I ; 
As I am now, so you must be ; 
Prepare yourself to follow me . 

The delapidated tombs, the crumbling urns, 
and weather-worn inscriptions, in the more ancient 
burial-grounds, prove what faithless remem- 
brancers these are of recording to posterity our 
real excellencies ; — what a poor substitute for a set 
of memorable actions is polished alabaster or the 
mimicry of sculptured marble. The only way 
of immortalizing our characters, a way equally 
open to the meanest and most exalted fortune, is 
so to live as not to fear to die. Even the tongues 
of those, whose happiness we have endeavoured 
to promote, must soon be silent in the grave; but 
this virtue shall be inscribed indelibly on that 
book, from which the revolution of eternal ages 
shall never efface it. 

Close by the English burial-grounds is one 
owned by the Greek church. 



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204 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



CAPUCHIN CONVENT. 

This building, erected under the auspices 
of the Grandmaster Verdala, in the year 1584, 
is situated on a very interesting locality, com- 
manding an extensive view of the Great harbour 
and of the country. The lower part of the edifice 
is occupied by the church of the convent, and a 
spacious court. The upper story is traversed by 
several narrow corridors lined with the cells of 
the monks, of which there are about sixty. The 
walls of the passages are covered with pictures, 
representing the astounding miracles performed 
by friars of this order. Over each cell is a small 
Latin inscription taken from the Holy Scriptures. 

This convent is very much frequented on holi- 
days, when a great number qome here to while 
away an hour in traversing the corridors, examin- 
ing the pictures which decorate the walls, reading 
the accounts of the mighty deeds of this brother- 
hood, chatting with some of the fraternity, or 
enjoying the fine air and beautiful prospect 
which surrounds the place. 

The church contains nothing remarkable, but 
the good supply of confessionals which line its 
sides. The holy fathers of this body are in better 
repute than any other, and consequently have 
piany more applicants for shriving. Below the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



205 



church is an extensive vault called the Carneria, 
or Charnel-house, which is one of the most hor- 
rifying and disgusting spectacles I ever beheld. 
Here, those monks who die in the convent, after 
being disembowelled and well dried, are dressed in 
their clericals, and fixed up in niches until they 
fall to decay. The bones of such are taken and 
nailed upon the walls, in regular order, so as to 
form a kind of decoration; and the sculls are like- 
wise arranged in rows along the ceiling, standing 
like so many grim spectators of the mockery and 
indignity offered to their remains. In one of the 
sides of this vault are two enclosed coffins, con- 
taining the bodies of two friars, whom my guide 
endeavoured to persuade me performed mi- 
racles. 

This Golgotha was formerly open to the pub- 
lic on the second day of November, the anniver- 
sary of the festival called All Souls' Day; but 
that custom has lately been abandoned. With 
the permission of the Superior, however, any per- 
son is allowed to visit it. As this particular day 
is still very devoutly observed by the Church of 
Rome, I shall just give the occasion of it. "A 
monk, having visited Jerusalem, and passing 
through Sicily, as he returned home, had the cu- 
riosity to see Mount Etna, which is continually 
belching out fire and smoke ; and for that reason 

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206 



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is imagined by some to be the mouth of hell. 
Being there, he heard the devils within complain- 
ing, that many departed souls were taken out of 
their hands by the prayers of the Cluniac monks. 
This idle story he related soon after, as actual 
fact, on his return to Odilo his Abbot, who there- 
upon appointed this day to be annually observed 
in his monastery, and prayers without ceasing 
to be made for departed souls. Soon after the 
monks procured this day to be solemnized as a 
general holiday by the appointment of the Pope. M 



CASA DELLA MADONNA DI MANRESA. 

This building is situated opposite the House 
of Industry, and was erected in the year 1751 at 
the expense of D. Pietro Infante, Grand Prior of 
Crato in Portugal. It contains a small church 
of an oval form, which is one of the neatest hou- 
ses of worship I have seen in Malta. The whole 
establishment is remarkable for the plainness and 
simplicity of its architecture; and at the same 
time, for its clean and decent appearance. It 
consists of several passages or corridors, on the 
walls of which are hung a vast variety of old 
paintings, arranged in symmetrical order, and 
lined on both sides with small rooms, each con- 
taining the most necessary articles of household 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



207 



furniture. In one angle of the building is a spa- 
cious yard, very tastefully laid out with flowers. 

This institution was originally intended as a 
place of retreat for such persons as wished to per- 
form the Exercises of St. Ignatius, consisting of 
meditations for ten successive days, during which 
time they secluded themselves from the rest of 
the world, and gave up all their temporal cares. 
At present it is used for the same purpose, by a 
portion of the clergy, during eight days in the 
month of October, and in December by such as 
are about to present themselves for ordination. 
The three days of Carnival is another season 
when this establishment is sometimes crowded 
with the more religiously disposed from among 
the respectable classes of the people, who pass 
the time here in seeing masses, in hearing ser- 
mons, confessing, meditation, and other devout 
duties. Twice a year, also, three days are ap- 
pointed for such of the country-people who de- 
sire to avail themselves of the quiet retirement 
and religious privileges which this place affords, 
The establishment provides nothing but soup and 
lodging for any of the above; so that all persons 
wishing to enjoy better fare must bring it along 
with them. 

A spacious apartment in the building is set 
apart as the public refectory. This is supplied 



203 



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with chairs and tables for the convenience of the 
inmates, who during their stay generally dine 
together. 

Among the edifying spectacles, exhibited in 
this place during the seasons of seclusion, was a 
figure representing a soul suffering the tortures of 
hell, so constructed, as that by the motion of a 
wheel it was enveloped in flames, which moved 
in rapid succession round the victim, together 
with hideous snakes writhing themselves about 
his body, and adding increased tortures to his 
sufferings. Whatever may have been the reaL 
effect of such a sight, it has lately been suppressed. 

Besides the above, there are two other churches 
in Floriana, one dedicated to St. Publius, and the 
other called DeW Immaculata Concezione cli Ma- 
ria; which latter appertains to the Government. 
It is generally known by the name of Sarria, so 
called after the Cavalier F. Martino de Sarria, 
who founded it in the year 15S5. In conse- 
quence of a vow made during the time of the 
plague, it was repaired and enlarged by the Or- 
der in 1676, but contains nothing worth noticing. 
On the walls are hung many small pictures, pla- 
ced there as the fulfillment of vows, representing 
the persons in their distress, and the real or ima- 
ginary cause of their deliverance. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



209 



Having terminated the circuit of Floriana, I 
shall now pass over to observe what is most 
remarkable on the opposite side of the Great 
Harbour, including the three towns of Borgo, 
Burmola, and Senglea. 

This division of the island contains several 
small bays or creeks, formed by narrow peninsu- 
las of land jutting out into the Great Harbour. 
On the two principal of these stand the cities of 
Borgo and Senglea, separated by a piece of wa- 
ter which runs inland as far as the centre of Bur- 
mola, and called formerly the Port of the Gallies. 
As the former of the above mentioned cities was 
the first residence of the Order, we shall give it 
the precedence in the following description. 



BORGO 

OR 

C1TTA VITTORIOSA. 

On the arrival of the Knights of St. John at 
Malta in 1 530, this spot, which at that time was 
only occupied by a few huts, was selected as the 
place of their residence, and from that circum- 
stance took the name of the Burgh or Borgo. 
After the victory gained over the Turks in 1565, 
(a short sketch of which I shall give at the end 



210 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

of the description of the three cities) it was dig- 
nified with the title of the Citta Vittoriosa, or the 
Victorious city; in commemoration of which de- 
feat, a statue of Victory was erected by the 
Grandmaster in the square of St. Lawrence, which 
exists to the present day. This city continued 
to be the seat of government until the year 1571, 
when the whole body of the knights moved over 
to Valetta, which from that time became the 
conventual residence of the Order. 

The site on which the small town of Borgo 
stands is very uneven, the streets are unpaved, 
narrow and irregular, and consequently not re- 
markably clean. In general the houses are built 
much in the same manner with those of Valetta, 
but come far behind the latter in the neatness of 
their exterior, and the finish of their interior. 
Though there are several wealthy persons resi- 
dent in the city, it is chiefly inhabited by the 
second and third classes of the people, many of 
whom are engaged in the sea-faring line. 

The inner side of the peninsula is not walled 
in with fortifications, these being rendered unne- 
cessary by the castle of St. Angelo, and the forts 
of the Point and St. Michael, on the opposite 
town of Senglea. The outer side, however, 
towards the bay called Calcara, is defended by a 
strong wall which reaches the whole length of 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 211 

the city, and encloses it by forming an angle at 
the termination of the above mentioned bay, and 
continues the line until it joins with the Harbour 
of the Gallies. That part of the bulwark which 
crosses the peninsula is defended by a deep ditch, 
which is traversed by a bridge leading into the 
city, and by the cavaliers of St. John and St. 
James which overlook the entrance. The chief 
defence of the city, as also of the Great Harbour, 
is the Castle of St. Angelo, which on account of 
its importance merits a more particular descrip- 
tion. 

CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 

The first notice which we have of the occupa- 
tion of this site for a place of defence is in the 
year 870, when the Arabs, after dispossessing the 
Greeks, erected here a small fort for the purpose 
of guarding their marauding vessels which an- 
chored in the Great Harbour. On the arrival of 
the Knights of St. John it was made the chief 
bulwark of the town, and consequently was very 
much enlarged. In 1686 new fortifications were 
added to it under the auspices of the Grandmas- 
ter Gregorio Carafa, and finally it assumed its 
present state in the year 1690, under the reign 
of Adrian de Wignacourt, as may be seen from 
an inscription over the outer gate. 



212 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



Towards the mouth of the Great Harbour this 
fortress presents an imposing front, consisting of 
four batteries, built one above another in the style 
of an amphitheatre, mounting fifty-one guns be- 
side those which are posted on the cavalier and 
the walls connected with it. The fort is separa- 
ted from the town of Borgo by a ditch, into which 
the sea runs from the two harbours which flank 
it at both extremities. This ditch is about twen- 
ty-five yards in width, and according to tradition 
occupies the ancient site of the temple of the 
goddess Juno. 

St. Angelo is at present garrisoned by a de- 
tachment of British artillerv, under the command 
of a captain who occupies the building formerly 
tenanted by the Grandmaster. The only object 
of interest to be noticed within the walls is an 
extensive powder magazine, and a small Gothic 
chapel built on a level with the uppermost bat- 
tery, and containing two sienite pillars which 
were probably brought by the Knights from the 
island of Rhodes. 

VICTUALLING YARD. 

A large extent of the inner wharf of Borgo is 
occupied by a range of magazines, with a cover- 
ed portico, furnished with every thing necessary 
for the supply of the British fleet. This place is 



I 



I 



1 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



213 



called the Victualling Yard. A little higher up 
are three long arched entrances, where thegallies 
of the knights were drawn up to undergo repairs. 

The row of buildings which line the mole 
above the magazines are at present occupied by 
the office and the officers belonging to this na- 
val establishment; they were formerly the resi- 
dence of the Captain and Lieutenant General of 
the fleet of the Order, and of the Commanders 
of the gallies. 

inquisitor's palace. 

This is an extensive building, situated in the 
street called Strada della Porta Maggiore, and 
at present forms the mess-house for the officers 
of the British garrison stationed at the barracks 
of Fort St. Michael in Senglea. There is nothing 
particular to be noticed in the upper part of the 
edifice, and the passages which lead down to the 
cells underground, and which formed the prison- 
house of the poor wretches who unfortunately fell 
into the hands of this diabolical tribunal, have 
long since been walled up. About ten years ago, 
whilst digging to form a wine-cellar, a rack was 
discovered in one of the subterraneous apart- 
ments. 

The office of the Inquisition was introduced into 



214 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



the island of Malta by Pope Gregory XIII. in the 
year 1574, during the reign of John de la Cassiera. 
This circumstance took place on account of an 
action brought against the bishop of Malta by the 
Grandmaster, for interfering with the religious 
concerns of the Knights, which had ever been ru- 
led and directed by a council of the Order. In 
order to decide to what lengths the bishop's juris- 
diction should extend, Gregory agreed to send 
an Inquisitor to Malta, whose intervention, how- 
ever, was not accepted until the Council of the 
Order had exacted a promise from the sovereign 
pontiff, that the officer sent from the court of Rome 
should never act but in conjunction with the 
Grandmaster, the Bishop, the Prior of the church 
of St. John, and the Vice Chancellor of the Or- 
der; by which means this new tribunal was di- 
vided between the Inquisition and the principal 
officers of the state. But this prudent arrange- 
ment lasted a very short time. The Inquisitors, 
from a spirit of emulation so common among 
themselves, and on pretence of maintaining the 
authority of the Holy See, contrived to get fresh 
assessors; and, in order to become absolute in 
their tribunal, endeavoured to establish a degree 
of dominion in the island, and frequently strug- 
gled hard to make it supersede the legitimate one. 
To effect this purpose, they pursued the following 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



215 



method : any Maltese who was desirous of throw- 
ing off the authority of the Order might address 
himself to the Office of the Inquisition, which im- 
mediately presented him with a brief of indepen- 
dence, to which was given the name of patent. 
Those who took out this patent were called the 
Patentees of the Inquisition ; which implied, that 
in consequence of the said patent, they and all 
their family were under the immediate protection 
of the Holy See ; so that in all causes, either civil 
or criminal, the patentee was first tried in Malta 
by the tribunal of the Inquisition, and, if the con- 
demned party thought proper to make a last 
appeal to the Court of Rome, he was there tried 
a second time by a tribunal called La Rotta* 
Whilst the trial lasted their persons were secure, 
and the government of the Order could neither 
commit them to prison, nor punish them in any 
manner whatsoever. 

During the reign of La Cassiera the Inquisition 
had carried its evil designs to such a pitch, that 
three of the holy brotherhood were seized for 
forming a plan, in conjunction with some Spanish 
knights, to murder the Grandmaster. In 1657, 
fourteen years after the establishment of the tri- 
bunal, the Grand Inquisitor Odi raised disturb- 
ances by his interference in the election of a 
Grandmaster; and in 1711 one named Delci 

*** 12 



216 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



carried his pretensions to the highest degree of 
arrogance. He began by insolently demanding 
that the carriage of the Grandmaster should stop 
on meeting his; and afterwards insisted that the 
Infirmary belonging to the Order should for the 
future be under his jurisdiction. 

This hospital, which had ever been regarded 
as the most privileged spot on the island, and 
into which even the Marshal of the Order could 
not enter without leaving his truncheon at the 
door, was entrusted to the care of some French 
Knights, who were particularly zealous for their 
liberties, and who acknowledged no superior au- 
thority, but that of the Grand Hospitaller, who 
alone was permitted free entrance without leaving 
behind him the ensigns of his dignity; yet even 
here the officers of the inquisition had the auda- 
city to enter by surprise, and to begin their visits 
of examination. But the moment the Overseer 
of the Infirmary was informed of their conduct, 
he obliged them to depart immediately, and de- 
clared null and void all their proceedings. The 
Inquisitor Delci did not stop here; but, without 
the smallest attention to the rights of the sover- 
eign, and to prove his own superiority, distributed 
a great number of patents, such as we have al- 
ready mentioned, declaring in the most absolute 
terms, that every Maltese to whom they were 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



217 



granted became from that moment exempt from 
all obedience to the legitimate sovereign.* 

This tribunal continued its iniquitous proceed- 
ings until the arrival of the French, who expelled 
them from the island, and confiscated all their 
property. 



CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES OF BORGO. 

St. Dominies Convent. 

Opposite the Inquisitor's Palace is a convent 
dedicated to St. Dominic, the founder of the Holy 
Tribunal, which is at present occupied by a few 
friars of the same order. The upper division of 
the building consists of seyeral passages, contain- 
ing the cells of the monks; but the whole is in a 
very delapidated condition, and unless repaired 
will soon fall to ruin. The church connected with 
the convent might once have made some pretence 
to elegance, but at present it has the appear- 
ance of being the worse for wear. Over the altar 
of the Inquisition, which is on the right side of 
the wall on entering, is a large picture, represent- 
ing an Inquisitor, with a rod in one hand, bela- 
bouring some poor individual who is ^crouched 

* See Boisgelin, Vol. II. p, 140, 195, 220; and Ver- 
tot, Tom. IV p. 225 et seq. 

13 



218 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



at his feet, and pointing with the other to a 
tablet containing these words, Credo in Deum:— 
a very exemplary method of teaching the precepts 
of the Gospel. 

Church of St. Lawrence. 

This is the parish-church of the Citta Vittoriosa, 
and ; during the residence of the Order in this city, 
was made use of by them as their place of pub- 
lic worship. It contains several commodious 
chapels, and is rather richly ornamented. On 
one side stands an image of St. Lawrence, holding 
a large silver gridiron in his hand. This article 
was presented to the church by a Maltese, on the 
last anniversary of the feast of the saint, in ful- 
filment of a vow made by him during the preva- 
lence of the Cholera. The gridiron is about one 
yard and a half long, and three quarters wide, 
The cost was 800 scudies, or 66/. 13s. 4c£. 

Santa Maria dei Greet. 

This was formerly one of the chapels which 
belonged to the Greeks who followed the Knights 
of St. John from Rhodes. The number of this 
persuasion having greatly diminished, this chapel 
was sold to the Fratelli * of St. Joseph, who have 

* For the signification of this term see note on p, 100 
and 101. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



219 



it in their possession at the present day. The 
only object of interest worth noticing here is the 
sword and hat, which the Grandmaster La Valette 
wore, on the day in which he drove the Turks 
from the island. They are preserved in a glass 
case, with the following inscription engraved on 
a marble slab underneath : 

Emmanuel Rohanus 
Magnus Ordinis. Hieros. Magister 
Sacellum Deiparce. Virgini 
Consumatrice sacrum 
Vetustate conlapsum 
cum omni cultu 
Restituit. anno MDCCVXXIX 
Idemque providentia sua cavit 
ut injuria superiorum temporum neglecta 
decentiore loco servarentur 
Ensis et Galerus 
quce Ioannis Valetta 
ejusdem ordinis Supremus Magister 
anno MDVV 
Turca devicti 
Melitce obsidione soluta 
Republica bene grata servataque 
lubens et Icetus 
Hers sospitce Dei genetrici 
suspender at 



220 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



Convent of St a. Scolastica. 

During the time of the Bishop Gargallo, the 
nuns composing this sisterhood were transported 
from the Citta Notabile, their original residence, 
to the present convent, which had formerly be- 
longed to the Ursoline nuns of the Order of St. 
John, This was considered so great an innova- 
tion by the citizens of the Notabile, that the 
Commander Lascaris, afterwards Grandmaster, 
was sent to escort them in safety, lest they should 
be seized by the fury of the people. 

The convent is large, and has a very neat church 
connected with it. On either side the altar is a 
grated window, where the nuns are permitted to 
come, in order to hear mass. In one of these there 
is a small opening, from which they communicate 
of the consecrated host. 



BIRMULA or CITTA COSPICUA. 

This city lies inland between Borgo and Sen- 
glea, and is surrounded with a strong bulwark, 
which commences at the counterscrap of the for- 
mer, and joins on with the walls of the latter, where 
they overlook the inner harbour, called the Port 
of the French. This fortification was commenced 
in the year 1 638, during the reign of the Grand- 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



221 



master Lascaris, under the superintendence of the 
engineer Vincenzo Maculano, a Dominican friar, 
sent over by the Pope for the purpose. The de- 
sign of the defence was much enlarged under the 
Grandmaster Perillos, and was finally completed 
by Manoel de Vilhena m 1730. 

On the hill, called Sta. Margarita, which is si- 
tuated just without the chief entrance of the Citta 
Vittoriosa, is a nunnery dedicated to that saint, 
and also a conservatory for girls, under the di- 
rection of the Bishop of Malta. At the foot of 
the hill is a monastery of Carmelite monks, dedi- 
cated to Sta. Teresa. The parish church called 
Delia Concezione is a spacious building, but con- 
tains little worthy the attention of the traveller. 

The chief part of the town of Birmula is situ- 
ated on a low site, and is very thickly populated. 
The streets are generally narrow and irregular, 
and a great proportion of the houses, especially 
those situated near the walls, are nothing better 
than hovels. In this quarter, the city presents a 
very miserable appearance, not only from the 
mean aspect of the dwellings, but from the great 
accumulation of stones and rubbish which crowd 
the fortifications. One side of the wharf of the 
small harbour of Birmula is occupiedby the Dock- 
yard and Naval arsenal, provided with every thing 
requisite for the supply of the British fleet in the 



222 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

Mediterranean. Part of the opposite shore is 
also taken up with magazines, destined for the 
same purpose. 

The extreme southern point of the Birmula 
fortifications is defended by the Fort San Fran- 
cesco di Paola, garrisoned at present by a detach- 
ment of English infantry. 

Following the road leading north from the 
abovementioned fort, we arrive at the outskirts 
of the city of 

SENGLEA or ISOLA. 

This city is situated upon the peninsula oppo- 
site Borgo, having the Harbour of the Gallies on 
one side, and that of the French on the other. 
Towards the former it is not w-alled in, but a 
strong bastion extends the whole length of the 
town towards the latter, and then crosses the pe- 
ninsula at the entrance of the principal gate, form- 
ing an exact counterpart to the fortifications on 
the opposite side : so that a line run across the 
extremities of the Galley Port would connect 
the walls of both cities. The chief defence of 
Senglea is the strong fortress of St. Michael, 
w T hich commands the entrance into the town, as 
w r ell as the two harbours by which it is flanked. 
This fort was ejected in the year 1552 by the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 223 

Grandmaster John d' Omedes; the walls and 
other fortifications were raised in the subsequent 
reign by Claude de la Sengle, from whom the 
city took its name. Previous to this, it was call- 
ed Chersoneso, and after the siege of 1565, was 
known by the name of Isola or the Citta Invitta. 

On the mole of the inner harbour is the Mer- 
chant's Yard, where all Maltese vessels and boats 
are built ; on the outer, towards the end, is a large 
building, formerly appropriated to the Captains 
of the gallies, but now occupied by several offi- 
cers of the British garrison quartered in the bar- 
racks of Fort St. Michael. This wharf is known 
by the name of La Sirena, (the Syren) from the 
circumstance that a figure of this creature for- 
merly stood over the entrance into a small cave* 
at the commencement of the mole, to which the 
natives were accustomed anciently to resort as 
a place of amusement. 

Senglea is in every respect superior to Borgo 
and Birmula. It contains many well-built hou- 
ses, and the streets are in general tolerably good, 
though none of them are paved. It includes 
one large church and a monastery: the former 
dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, and 
the latter to St. Philip. On the wall just inside 
the entrance of the church is a marble slab, con- 
taining an inscription, put up to record the fidelity 

**13 



224 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



of the inhabitants during the siege, and their 
obstinate refusal to accept the offered bribes 
from the Turks in order that they should desert 
the Order; for which gallant action they were 
freed from the annual tribute, which they pre- 
viously paid to the knights. The writing is as 
follows. 

h O. M. 

Ampliss. Hier. Ordini, 
Pr i n c ip i Mu n [fie en t i ss i mo, 
Fidei, et Bellicce virtutis remuneratorl 
ob liber atum populum eib onere census 
clecreto sacri concilii status 
edito, Magisterio vacante, 
IX. Februarii MDC. ah Incarnato Christo 
Senglea Civiias Invicta 
Graft anhni monumentum p. 

On the wharf of the Sirena is a small establish- 
ment, founded in the year 1794 by Nicola Dingly 
and Maria Cornelia, two wealthy Maltese, for 
the reception of female convalescents belonging 
to this city and the village Siggiewi, who are re- 
ceived and lodged here for eight days after they 
leave the Public Hospital. There is a small cha- 
pel connected with this institution. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



225 



COTTONERA FORTIFICATIONS. 

This vast bulwark, extending for several miles 
from the city Vittoriosa round the whole of 
Birmula with the Firenzuola fortifications, and 
joining the bastions of Senglea, was built in the 
year 1670 by the Grandmaster Nicholas Cotoner, 
and originally intended as a safe retreat for the 
whole population of the country in case of a 
siege. The fort of St. Salvador, erected by the 
Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena, occupies an 
elevated position on the Cottonera lines, about a 
mile to the east of Vittoriosa, and completely 
commands that city. In case of attack, this si- 
tuation would be very dangerous in the hands 
of an enemy. 

CAPUCHIN CONVENT. 

Without the gate of St. Salvador, situated in 
a very pleasant and elevated spot, stands the 
above convent, built under the auspices of the 
Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena. The only ob- 
ject worth noticing in the church is a small cha- 
pel, built after the model of the House of Loretto. 
In a small recess opposite this chapel is a paint- 
ing, representing the ass of St. Anthony bowing 
down to the consecrated host. The moral which 



226 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

some desigyj that this traditionary tale should 
convey, is, that because the ass knelt on the oc- 
casion, ergo, man must follow his example. 




NAVAL HOSPITAL. 



The hill upon which this building is erected is 
known by the name of Bighi, so called after a 
Prior of the same name, who built a residence for 
himself on the presept site of the Hospital. It 
is situated on a small piece of land, jutting out 
between the bay called Renella and that of Cat- 
vara. Until within the last Ave years, when the 
Naval Hospital was removed to this spot, it oc- 
cupied a building within the walls of Vittoriosa. 
The present establishment is well worth the 
traveller's attention. The edifice is neat and ex- 
tensive, and every thing requisite for the comfort 
of the patients is amply provided. A wide space 
of ground is walled in round the building, and 
is planted with shrubs and trees, forming a tie- i, 
lightful walk for such as are convalescent. 

• 

v » 

FORT RICASOLI. 

} 

This fort was founded in the year 1670 by the I 
Cavalier Gianfrancesco Ricasoli, who contributed 
the sum of £3000 towards defraying the expenses i 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 227 

of the building, and endowed it with a large por- 
tion of his income. The Grandmaster Cottoner 
publicly acknowledged his gratitude to the knight 
tor so generous an action, and ordered that it 
should be called after his name, Ricasoli. 

This fortress is built on the extreme point of 
an angular projection, and corresponds with St 
Elmo on the opposite shore. The two forts to- 
gether command the entrance into the Great 
Harbour. In itself it is a place of considerable 
strength, and is additionally guarded by the bul- 
warks which extend and ramify towards the Cot- 
tonera lines. From the sea, this fort, if tolerably 
garrisoned, would be quite impregnable. From 
the land side it could only be reached by sur- 
mounting a long succession of strongly defended 
posts, at each of which the assailants would be 
subject to imminent, almost insuperable danger. 

On the 3rd. of April 1807, this fort was the 
scene of an event, which as it is but little known, 
may be worth recording. During the progress 
of the war, when the necessity of large military 
supplies was hardly satisfied by the resources of 
our country, the expedient was adopted by our 
Government of entering into a commercial con- 
tract with different speculators, who engaged, for 
I a certain remuneration, to levy troops, according 
to the emergency, from the peasantry of different 



228 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



countries, to be rendered disposable for foreign 
service, when that service did not seem to require 
more trustworthy or veteran troops. A French 
noble proposed to raise for the Mediterranean 
service a regiment, composed entirely of Greeks. 
The bargain being struck, he proceeded to gather 
together from the Levant, Archipelago and the 
Continent, a horde of various men, Greeks, Al- 
banians, Sclavonians, and what not, who were 
to be enrolled under the English banners, with 
the title of Frobergs Regiment. In a short time 
they were equipped, transported to Malta, and 
appointed to occupy this fort. The officers who 
had been placed over them were chiefly Germans; 
and in order to perfect them more, an English 
drill-serjeant or two, with an officer, were ap- 
pointed to the same duty, and some artillerymen 
as usual remained in the garrison to superintend 
the guns. The severity exercised over the Fro- 
bergs by their commanders was increasingly ag- 
gravated, when they found that all the specious 
promises of professional dignity, with which they 
had been lured into the service, were vain and 
delusive. A frequent use of bodily punishment, 
often inflicted by caprice, ripened these soldiers for 
rebellion, and the occasion of an officer striking 
a drummer on the face with a cane was the sig- 
nal for open revolt. Several officers were killed 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



229 



by the rebels, and finally they closed the gates 
against the garrison of Valetta and declared 
themselves independant. 

In their stronghold, these rebels bid defiance to 
the numerous troops that were at that time sta- 
tioned in the garrison, and the dubious]measures 
of the military governor Villetes, then second in 
command, so far assisted them, as to leave nothing 
to be dreaded but the consequence of block- 
ade, which was established forthwith. An Eng- 
lish artillery-officer and several of his men, who 
were still imprisoned within the fort, were obliged 
to assist in pointing the guns, and firing over 
shot into the city. 

The scarcity of provisions, and the absence of 
all subordination among the revolters, soon pro- 
duced intestine quarrels, which, as might be 
expected in such a company, soon terminated in 
bloodshed. This state of things did not continue 
long; a large section burst open the gates, threw 
themselves in the midst of the English troops, 
leaving behind about one hundred and fifty of 
their companions in possession of the fort. 

These resolute fellows still continued to man 
the walls, and to keep up their former hostile 
proceedings. Their affairs, however, were soon 
rendered desperate. An English Naval officer, 
named Capt. Collins, offered to take upon himself 



I 



230 



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the capture of the fort; and accordingly succeed- 
ed in storming it by night, and in securing all the 
men, with the exception of six, who took pos- 
session of the powder-magazine, and there defied 
the courage of the assailants, by protesting that 
they would blow it up in case they persevered 
in their endeavours to seize them. 

Of the number taken, ten were hung and fif- 
teen musketted, on the plain of Floriana. Their 
execution, however, was carried on in the most 
inhuman and barbarous manner. Pinioned and 
handcuffed, they were made to kneel upon their 
coffins without being blindfolded, and after the 
first volley fired at them, several, still clinging to 
life, rose up and ran about the plain pursued by 
the soldiers like so many hares. One in particu- 
lar made great efforts to escape ; after stumbling 
close by a well into which he had attempted to 
throw himself/ he managed to reach the bastions, 
from which he cast himself headlong the height 
of one hundred and fiftf feet. The soldiers in 
pursuit followed him to the place of his fall, 
where, finding that he still lived, they soon put 
an end to his miserable existence. 

But to return to the six rebels, who continued 
in possession of the powder magazine. Confi- 
dent of making advantageous terms with the 



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231 



Governor, they persisted in their obstinate resist- 
ance, and made no advances towards a surrender. 
From time to time some one presented himself 
in order to negotiate with the besiegers, but to 
no avail; nothing but an unconditional surrender 
would be listened to by the Commandant. Five 
days passed away in this manner, during which 
time all their urgent entreaties for provision were 
obstinately refused, and the unfortunate wretches 
were reduced to a most pitiable condition. On 
the sixth these entreaties were pressed with addi- 
tional importunities, and seconded with the threat, 
that in case of a refusal, or the non-assurance 
of pardon, they would blow up the fort as soon 
as the first vesper-bell tolled from St. John's ca- 
thedral. No notice was taken of this desperate 
menace, nor any thought entertained that these 
six men valued life so little as to join together 
in so horrible a design for their own destruction. 
All was still until the appointed hour, when the 
fatal crash was heard, the stones of the magazine 
were seen rising in the air, and the whole building, 
with a part of the fortification, was reduced to 
ruins. The loss sustained by tHe besiegers from 
this explosion was considerable. 

Some time had already elapsed, and the affair of 
the rebels had ceased to be talked of, when a priest 



232 



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returning home on a donkey, from a rather soli- 
tary quarter in the direction of the fort, was as- 
sailed by a man dressed in the Froberg uniform, 
who pointed his musket at him over a wall, and 
apparently intended to make him the receptacle 
of its contents. The affrighted father immedia- 
tely took to his heels, and upon his arrival at home 
made known the circumstance to the police. 
An armed body w r as forthwith sent in pursuit 
of the bandit, which succeeded in discovering the 
retreat of the six poor wretches, whom it was ima- 
gined had been blown up with the magazine. 
Pale and emaciated they were secured with ease, 
and led into the town, and soon aftenvards receiv- 
ed the full reward of their inhuman deeds by a 
public execution. 

From their own account of their escape, it ap- 
pears, that during the siege they had continued 
to carry out one of the mines to the precints of 
the fortifications, leaving but a slender wall to ab- 
stract their retreat, which they might throw down 
in a moment, during the night, without any noise* 
when they wished to escape. Until this work was 
completed, they continued to make every appear- 
ance of holding out, but when all was ready, a 
train of powder was laid at a sufficient distance , 
to secure them from the effects of the explosion, 
and which they kindled at the precise time of their 



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233 



threat. It seems to have been the hope of the 
rebels, that in getting free from the fort, they 
might fall in with some vessel on the coast, and 
thus make their escape from the island. It after- 
wards appeared, that they had actually attempted 
te seize a small boat, upon which occasion they 
narrowly escaped being apprehended. 

SIEGE OF BORGO AND SENGLEA. 

As I have had occasion during the foregoing 
description to revert several times to the siege of 
1565, in which the above two cities were invest- 
ed for upwards of two months, I shall proceed to 
give a short account of that event, in order that 
by the associations of history, an increased inter- 
est may be felt in examining the localities with 
which they are connected. 

After the capture of St. Elmo by the Turks^ 
which I have already noticed in my description 
of that fort, a christian slave was sent from the 
Turkish camp to St. Angelo, in order to propose 
a negotiation ; but being sent back with an an- 
swer of defiance, the entire peninsulas of the 
Bourg and La Sangle were invested without de- 
lay. The latter town, and its principal defence, 
Fort St. Michael, were the points against which 
the besiegers directed their fire. Several batteries, 

*** 13 

I 
i 



234 



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planted on Mount Sceberras and the hill of Cor- 
radin, completely commanded these posts, and 
as they were esteemed the weakest, the flower 
of the Order undertook their defence, The Har- 
bour of the French alone remained open, and 
here the Ottoman leader determined to make 
his principal assault; but as it was impossible for 
a flotilla to pass under the batteries of St. Ange- 
lo without certain destruction, he determined to 
adopt the expedient of transporting a number of 
boats from Marsamuscetto into the Great Har- 
bour, across the isthmus which joins Mt. Sceber- 
ras to the mainland. The desertion of a Greek 
officer from his service, however, put the knights 
in timely possession of this project, and occasion- 
ed it to be materially altered. 

Thus forewarned, the Grandmaster prepared 
to defeat the contemplated assault. The sea- 
ward walls of La Sangle were heightened by his 
orders, and the cannon on them brought to com- 
mand the inner port at every point; while a vast 
stockade, extending from Mount Coradino to the 
point of Senglea w T as formed, by driving huge 
piles into the shallow water, and then fixing a 
chain on the top of them by means of iron rings. 
In order to remove this barrier, Mustapha dis- 
patched a band of expert swimmers under the 
cloud of night, with axes in their girdles, to open 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 235 

a passage through the booms and palisades; but 
the noise of these adventurers alarmed the gar- 
rison, and the guns on the walls immediately 
commenced a fierce cannonade. Being too ele- 
vated, they threw their shot over the heads of 
the Turks, and therefore proved ineffective; but 
at the suggestion of Admiral de Monte, a party 
of Maltese swimmers were dispatched against 
them, and, after a sanguinary water combat, 
completely routed the Turks. A subsequent at- 
tempt was made to destroy the booms and stakes* 
by means of cables worked on the shore by ship 
capstans; but this also was baffled by the intre- 
pidity of the marines, who swam out again and 
cut the ropes. 

Enraged at being thus circumvented in a fa- 
vourite project, the Pasha, on the 5th. of July, 
ordered his guns to open simultaneously on the 
two towns. Accordingly, the vast batteries 
which had been raised on the hill of Sta. Marga- 
rita and the rock of Coradino commenced a 
furious cannonade against Fort St. Michael, and 
the bulwark of Senglea, while those on Mount 
Sceberras and the hill of Salvador played on 
Borgo and the castle of St. Angelo. The can- 
nonade did not cease until considerable breaches 
were made in the advanced works of both towns, 
and the Pasha was only delayed from making 



236 



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an attempt to storm the latter, from a desire 
that the Viceroy of Algiers would soon arrive 
with a reinforcement to share in the assault. 

Hassan, the leader of the Algerine troops, soon 
came, accompanied by t wo thousand five hundred 
chosen soldiers. He was the son of the famous 
Barbarossa, and the son-in-law of the scarcely 
less famous Dragut, who lost his life on the cape 
on which Fort Tigne stands. To this young war- 
rior was committed, at his own request, the land 
attack on Fort St. Michael, and to Candelissa 
his lieutenant, the maritime part of the enterprise. 
Under his superintendence, and in accordance 
with the Pasha's original project, a number of 
boats were dragged overland from Marsarnuscet- 
to, and launched in the Great Harbour, where 
they were manned with four thousand Algerine 
and Turkish soldiers. Under a galling fire of 
round shot and musketry, the enemy sprang 
bravely upon the stockade, which obstructed the 
entrance of his fleet into the French Harbour, and 
with hammers and hatchets endeavoured to de- 
molish it. After several attempts they succeed- 
ed in forming a passage to an uncovered part of 
the beach, at the extremity of Senglea. This 
headland wus defended by a battery of six guns, 
playing level with the water, and by a strong in- 
trenchment, within which were posted a number 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



237 



of expert harquebusiers. Several discharges of 
shot among the assailants greatly diminished their 
numbers; but, rendered desperate by the perils 
which surrounded them, after a combat of five 
hours, they forced the defenders to retire, and 
planted seven Turkish ensigns on the summit of 
the intrenchment. 

The sight of the Moslem standard floating tri- 
umphantly on this outwork, filled the knights 
with shame and indignation, and a fresh body of 
them, headed by Admiral De Monte, renewed the 
battle. After a severe conflict, the Turkish pen- 
nons were torn down, and their defenders driven 
headlong from the rampart. All those who 
failed to reach the boats were sacrificed, many 
were shot while swimming after their boats, and 
of the boats themselves many were sunk by the 
fire of the batteries. 

The landward attack, headed by the Algerine 
Viceroy in person, was not more successful. At 
the sound of a signal- gun, his troops rushed gal- 
lantly towards the breaches on the side of the 
Birmula Gate and the castle of St. Michael, and 
in a short space, a small corps of Algerines dis- 
played their ensigns in several points of the pa- 
rapet. A murderous discharge, however, from 
the cannon of the fort poured death into the heart 
of the enemy, and drove them back again with 



238 



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great slaughter. Unable to stand the steady 
and destructive fire of the knights, the Viceroy 
at length sounded a retreat, leaving the flower 
of his troops lifeless at the foot of the rampart. 

The Turkish general did not fail to follow up 
this bloody effort with a fresh attack, but was 
again as violently repulsed by the bravery of the 
knights. Undismayed, however, by these suc- 
cessive repulses, he ordered a kind of bridge to 
be constructed, by means of which he anticipated 
his troops would be able to enter the works, 
The Grandmaster, who regarded this contrivance 
with apprehension, made two attempts to burn 
it by night; but the sleepless vigilance of the 
enemy rendered them futile. He at length de- 
termined to make a final attempt to destroy it 
by day, and his nephew, Henry de La Valette* 
was intrusted with the perilous duty. At the head 
of a body of picked men, and in the teeth of a 
heavy fire from the Turks, he sallied out, accom- 
panied by a brother knight, with the intention of 
fastening a number of strong ropes to the princi- 
pal posts and beams of the bridge, so as to en- 
able them to drag it by main force from its 
position. The design, however, was baffled by 
the fierce fire of the harquebusiers, and the fol- 
lowers of young La Valette bore back the life- 
less remains of their leader into the fortress. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



239 



The Grandmaster, though secretly mourning 
the fate of his nephew, did not allow himself to 
be deterred for a moment from effecting his pur- 
pose. By his orders, an entrance was opened 
in the wall, immediately facing the bridge, 
through which a piece of artillery was brought 
to play on the whole structure. A few discharges 
shattered it in such a manner as to render it un- 
serviceable; and, on the following night, it was 
set on fire and consumed to ashes. 

Disconcerted by this event, the Pasha again 
ordered the Turkish batteries to open upon the 
two towns with redoubled activity, and the con- 
test waxed daily more bloody and desperate. 
For four successive days the Christians were en- 
gaged in incessant skirmishes on the walls of La 
Sengle; and at length, on the 2nd. of August, the 
Turkish horns sounded a scalade. The Turks 
fought with extraordinary obstinacy; but at the 
end of six hours their ardour abated, and they 
retired from the breaches leaving them choked 
with their dead. Five days afterwards, simulta- 
neous attacks were made on Fort St. Michael and 
the bastion of Castile. The Janissaries, who led 
the van of the battle, advanced against the for- 
mer fortress with warlike shouts, and though the 
' ground over which they crossed was strewn with 
mutilated bodies, they fought their way to the 

*14 



210 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



top of the breach, and for four hours maintained 
their position. At this crisis, not only the knights, 
but the citizens, men, women and children, hover- 
ed on the skirts of the combat and supplied their 
protectors with refreshments, or flung missiles and 
fire-works into the Ottoman ranks. Wearied and 
oppressed with fatigue the Christians prepared for 
the worst, when suddenly, to their astonishment 
and joy, they heard a recall sounded along the 
Turkish line. This seasonable relief was occasion- 
ed by a diversion on the part of the Governor of 
the Citta Notabile, who, observing from his post 
the cloud of smoke which enveloped Fort St. Mi- 
chael, hastily ordered a few squadrons of cavalry 
to make an attack on the nearest point of the 
Turkish position. The knights w T ho commanded 
this detachment led it down to the Marsa, and 
massacred all the sick and wounded which were 
found in the hospital of the enemy. The fugi- 
tives who had escaped carried the news, that the 
Sicilian succours had arrived, which caused ftfas- 
tapha, at the moment of victory, to relinquish the 
breach, and to march against this new foe. His 
indignation knew no bounds when he discovered 
the true state of the case; and had it not been for 
the harassed condition of his soldiers and the en- 
treaties of his officers, he would have imme- 
diately marched back to the field. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



241 



More than a fortnight elapsed before a new at- 
tempt was made. On the 18th. of August, the 
patience of the Turkish leaders became quite ex- 
hausted ; and they once more made an attack on 
the castle of St. Michael, with the resolution of 
continuing it day and night until the towns were 
taken. A previous cannonade had almost rased a 
part of the walls of St. Michael; but it was in vain 
that the enemy endeavoured to break through 
the barriers which the besieged formed with their 
bodies. The assault was suspended for some time, 
and was again renewed after sun-set; but the as- 
sailants, disheartened by their frequent repulses 
soon gave up the attempt for the night. 

August the 19th. the assault was renewed with 
undiminished resolution, and continued on the 
20th, but with little success on the part of the 
enemy, though at a great expense of life on the 
side of the besieged. The garrison had by this 
time become greatly diminished, the walls were 
mined in every direction, many of the outworks 
were in the hands of the Turks, and the Knights 
advised the Grandmaster to blow them up and to 
retire into the fortress of St. Angelo. But La Va- 

j leite sternly rejected this counsel, and determined 

i to keep his ground to the last. 

No fresh assault was made until the 1st. of 
September, when the Janissaries endeavoured 

**14 



242 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



again to take possession of the breach ; but their 
attempts were frustrated by the courage of their 
adversaries, and after a dreadful carnage they were 
obliged to retire from the conflict. At this crisis, 
when the battle was almost won by the valour 
of the knights, the long expected succours arrived 
from Sicily. The forces assembled were two hun- 
dred knights, and about eight thousand veteran 
troops, who disembarked on the morning of the 
7th. of September, in the bay of Mellieha, together 
with their arms and military stores. As soon as 
this expedition was landed, the Viceroy set sail 
and returned back to Sicily. 

Though warned of the arrival of this reinforce- 
ment, the Turks imagined that nothing more 
w r ould be tried than to force the entrance of the 
Great Harbour. Under this impression, they 
blocked the entrance with stakes and booms, and 
held themselves in readiness to defend the barrier. 
Their consternation, consequently, was extreme, 
when their scouts announced that a Christian 
army had actually landed, and was in full march 
against their camp. Rumour magnified the Si- 
cilian troops into an overwhelming force, arid 
without waiting to ascertain their real force, the 
Turkish general instantly drew his garrison out 
of Fort St. Elmo, abandoned all his heavv ore- 
nance, and hurried on board his fleet. Scarcely 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



243 



however, had he accomplished this sudden move- 
ment, than he obtained authentic information as 
to the number of his new enemies, and filled with 
shame, he ordered his army to be relanded. But 
in a few hours the labour of months had been 
rendered futile. The Maltese had already levelled 
his lines and intrenchments, and the standard of 
St. John once more waved over the cavalier of 
St. Elmo. A few skirmishes took place in the 
interior between the two parties; but the last ef- 
forts of the Turkish leaders to retrieve a long series 
of reverses were ineffectual. On the same day 
the whole army embarked, and immediately 
weighed anchor for Constantinople. 

Thus ended this memorable siege, in which 
25,000 Turkish soldiers perished. On the other 
side, the loss was also great, amounting to be- 
tween seven and eight thousand citizens, besides 
two hundred and sixty knights. The 8th. of Sep- 
tember, the anniversary of the raising of the siege, 
is still continued to be celebrated as a general 
festival throughout the island. * 

* The chief part of the above sketch has been compi- 
led from Vol. ii. of the Knights of 3Ialta 9 in Constable's 
Miscellany. 



244 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



INTERIOR of the ISLAND. 

Having visited all the interesting places in the 
city of Valetta and its suburbs, I shall proceed 
to point out what is most deserving of notice in 
the remaining part of the island. But as it is not 
my intention to describe every village in the 
country, which would only be tedious to the ge- 
neral reader, I shall herewith subjoin a list of them 
with their population, according to the census 
taken in the year 1835. 



Casals* 


Popul. 


Casals, 


PopuL 


Zeitun 


6066 


Gargur 


L19S 


Birchircara 


5649 


Ashiak 


1179 


Zebbug 


4545 


Tarshien 


1074 


Curmi 


4458 


Gudia 


998 


Siggiewi 


3774 


Attard 


942 


Mosta 


3737 


Micabba 


927 


Zabbar 


3687 


Crendi 


917 


Zurrico 


3266 


Balzan 


633 


Nasshar 


3131 


Dingli 


540 


Luca 


1517 


Chircop 


380 


Lia 


1276 


Safi 


237 



The most remarkable objects of interest in 
these villages are the parish churches, which are 
in general well built, commodious, and plentifully 
ornamented with images and paintings. The 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



245 



Maltese are very liberal in this respect, and seem 
to vie with one another which shall possess the 
most splendid house of worship. 

In every village there is stationed a Deputy Lao- 
gotenente, or sheriff, who has a certain number of 
police under his command for the preservation 
of the peace. This officer is abilitated to act as 
magistrate, and may decide any civil cause, with- 
in the limits of his jurisdiction, not including a 
value of more than 21. Is. 8c/. An appeal may 
be made from this court to the Session of the Dis- 
tricts, which is authorized to decide on any cause 
not including a higher interest than 41. 3s. 4c/. 
The district of the Citta Notabile comprehends Ca- 
sal Mosta, Dingli, Zebbug and Siggiewi; that of 
Attard, Casal Birchircara, Lia, Balsan, Gargur 
and Nasshiar; that of Curmi, Casal Zurrico, Chir- 
cop, Crendi, Micabba and Safi; and that of Zei- 
tun. Casal Zabbar, Gudia, Ashiak, Tarscien and 
Luca. This court is held once a month, in the 
district village, and is presided over by a magis- 
trate from the city, and the Lord Luogotenente 
of the district. Appeals from the sentence of this 
Court must be made to the Second Hall of Just- 
ice in Valetta. None of the above tribunals have 
any jurisdiction over criminal cases, these are all 
tried at the courts of the capital. 



246 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



The common vehicle used for travelling in Mal- 
ta is called a calesse: a kind of carriage with two 
wheels, drawn by one horse or mule. Some of 
these conveyances are intended for two persons 
only, others carry four, The driver is obliged 
to walk or run at the side, and with a small piece 
of wood, called a niggieza, in which two short 
nails are fixed, pricks the animal in order to urge 
him onward. The roads in the country, especial- 
ly those leading to the principal villages, are in 
general sufficiently good for the run of these vehi- 
cles; but in the uninhabited part, they are rugged, 
and in some cases travelling on horseback would 
be dangerous. The hire of a good horse for a 
day is about five shillings, the same price is ge- 
nerally paid for a calesse, 

Having made these preliminary observations^ 
I shall imagine the traveller leaving Port desBom- 
bes, and taking the principal road, called St. Giu- 
seppe, towards the Old City. After proceeding 
for about two miles, he will reach a long suc- 
cession of arches which form part of 

i 

THE ACQUEDUCT. 

This stupendous work was begun in the year 
1610, during the reign of the Grandmaster Alofio 
Wignacourt, and was completed in the space of 
five years. Previous to its erection, in case of 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



247 



scarcity of water in summer, owing to little rain 
having fell during winter, the inhabitants of the 
town were obliged to transport water from a 
spring at the end of the Great Harbour, called 
Ain Filep, which made it very expensive and 
inconvenient. In order to provide a sufficient 
supply, several springs were united together by 
subterraneous conduits, and their waters made 
to flow into one channel. The chief spring rises 
at a place called Diar Chandul, about two miles 
west of Citta Vecchia. As far as Casal Attard 
the acqueduct is underground, it afterwards alter- 
nately rises and falls with the unevenness of the 
ground, until it reaches the city. The whole length 
of its course is about nine and a half English miles* 
About five miles from Valetta, a little to the 
right of the San Giuseppe road, are the 

GARDENS AND PALACE OF ST. ANTONIO, 

built by the Grandmaster De Paula, and after- 
wards appropriated as a country-seat by his suc- 
cessors. The Palace is spacious and commodious, 
and the situation exceedingly pleasant. The gar- 
den is extensive and contains a great abundance 
i of fruit-trees, laid out in a very neat and regular 
order. The numerous ponds and fountains which 
are met with in the paved w T alks ; and which may 



248 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



be made to scatter out water in different direc- 
tions, add considerably to the interest of the place- 
Though not open to the public, any person may 
obtain permission to visit these gardens by appli- 
cation for a ticket at the Military Secretary's Office « 

CITTA VECCHIA, Or LA NOTABILE. 

Leaving St. Antonio, and passing through Ca- 
sal Attard, where there is a fine church, half an 
hours ride will bring the traveller to the Old 
City, situated on one of the most elevated parts 
of the island, and nearly in its centre. It is sur- 
rounded with walls, and defended with bastions 
and other modern fortifications, which render it 
exceedingly strong. Before the arrival of the 
Arabs, a much more extensive space was enclos- 
ed within the walls, but it was diminished by them 
in order to render its defence more easy and prac- 
ticable. 

In early times this city bore the same name 
with the island, and was called Melita, according 
to a quotation from Ptolemy the Geographer, lib. 
iv. c. 3. "Insulae in alto Mari Pdagiae has sunt, 
Melite insula, in qua civitas Melite, et Chersone- 
sus, et Junonis templum, et Herculis templum." 
Upon the authority of Cicero and Diodorus Sicu- 
lus we learn that the capital of Malta contained 
many stately buildings, and was very rich in the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



249 



style of its architecture. This evidence is substan- 
tiated by several remains, which are still seen 
scattered about the city, and by the vestiges of 
ancient baths, and temples which have occasion- 
ally been found whilst excavating, both within 
the walls and about the suburbs. 

During the domination of the Order of St. John, 
this city was governed by a Hakem or Ruler, 
chosen yearly by the Grandmaster, from among 
the principal Maltese citizens. He was ordinarily 
called the Captain of the Rod, and the jurisdiction 
of his court extended over the civil and criminal 
cases of all the villages on the island. The Ma- 
gistracy of the city consisted of three officers, 
called Giuratiy who were also chosen annually 
by the sovereign. The civil Court was formed 
of a tribunal of three Judges, one of whom judg- 
ed all regular lawsuits, while the remaining two, 
called Idioti, were only permitted to decide upon 
certain causes of small moment. 

On the election of a new Grandmaster, the 
ceremony of inauguration was performed in this 
city. Early in the morning, the sovereign left 
Valetta, accompanied by his court, and escorted 
by a body guard with bands of music. On his 
arrival near the city, he was saluted by the mus- 
ketry and by the principal Giurato, who present- 
ed him with a bunch of artificial flowers, with an 



250 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



appropriate speech, and afterwards kissed his 
hand. The procession then proceeded, until it 
joined the Bishop and the clergy, who come out. 
to meet them. The Grandmaster was afterwards 
placed under a canopy bore on four poles by the 
Giurati, and continued walking until he arrived 
at the gates of the city, where a place was pre- 
pared for him to kneel upon, before which a cross 
was erected. After the gates were shut, the first 
Giurato stepped forward, bearing in his hand a 
silver dish, with two keys laid upon it of the same 
metal, and making a very low bow, addressed 
the sovereign in the following words: "Most 
Serene Lord, the Divine Majesty has been pleas- 
ed to favour us and this city, by placing over us 
so great a prince as lord and master; and the 
high honor is conferred upon me of presenting 
to Your Serene Majesty the keys of this city, in 
order that you may take possession thereof. 
Therefore, my colleagues and myself, in all hu- 
mility, beg of Your Most Serene Highness to 
deign to swear upon the habit of the Grand Cross, 
that you will observe all the privileges, and fran- 
chises, and usages of this city, and of the island 
of Malta, which were conceded to them by the 
Most Serene Sovereigns of Arragon and Sicily, 
and by the magnanimous Grandmasters of this 
sacred Order, the predecessors of Your Most 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



251 



Serene Highness, and command that the same 
be observed." The Grandmaster then laid his 
hand upon the cross on his breast, and said, "I 
am bound to do so; I swear." After the keys 
were delivered into his hand, the procession pro- 
ceeded to the cathedral, where a solemn Te Deum 
was sung, and after the celebration of mass, the 
pageant terminated. 

The ceremony of consecrating the bishops of 
Malta is also performed in the cathedral of this 
city. 

The Cathedral and the ancient Magisterial 
Palace are the chief objects worthy of notice 
within the walls of the city. The site of the 
former building, according to tradition, was for- 
merly occupied by the residence of Publius, who 
was governor of the island, at the time of St. 
Paul's shipwreck. The edifice is built in the 
Corinthian style, and contains an altar composed 
of several kinds of very rich marble. In the up- 
per part of the building there is a small library, 
and a few antiques which have been found from 
time to time in excavations made about the city. 
The extensive view of the island from the terrace 
of the Cathedral is exceedingly fine, as it almost 
takes in the whole country. 

The ancient Magisterial Palace is a commo- 
dious building, and is used at present for the 

*** 14 



252 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



monthly sessions of the District Court of Nota- 
bile. Besides the cathedral there are two con- 
vents in the city, one a monastery of Benedictine 
nuns, annexed to which is a small but neat church. 

The Bishop's Palace and Theological Semina- 
ry are situated close by the cathedral, and are 
worthy of notice. Adjoining the latter building 
is the supposed site of the ancient temple of 
Apollo. 

The suburbs of the city, called Rahbato, contain 
several large buildings, among which are four 
monasteries, and two hospitals, one called Delia 
Saura, and the other dedicated to Santo Spirito. 
The former was founded by several legacies left 
by pious individuals, and the latter appears to 
have been a public establishment instituted at a 
very early period. It is at present under the 
direction of the local government. 

st. Paul's cave. 

One of the most interesting objects in the 
suburbs of Citta Vecchia is the Grotto of St.Paul, 
situate underneath a church dedicated to the 
same saint. According to tradition, St. Paul, 
accompanied by Luke the Apostle, and Trofimus, 
resided in this cave for the space of three months, 
the time of his stay upon the island. In order 
to give the talc some appearance of consistency 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 253 

a famous writer on Malta assigns Paul's "modes- 
ty and humility" as the reason of his choosing 
such a habitation; for it cannot be supposed, ar- 
gues the same writer, that the barbarous inhabi- 
tants, who manifested their kindness in so signal 
a manner to the apostle, or that the most noble 
and courteous Publius, who was so greatly indebt- 
ed to him, would have willingly suffered Paul to 
occupy so mean a dwelling. Nor can it be ima- 
gined that the apostle was here kept prisoner, 
after the centurion had forbid the soldiers to kill 
any of the criminals, whom he had brought with 
him, in order to save Paul's life! 

The veneration for this cave very much in- 
creased about the beginning of the seventeenth 
century, when a citizen of Cordova, named Fra 
Giovanni, left his native country, and came to 
Malta in order to tenant it. This anchorite had 
a chapel erected oyer the grotto of St. Paul, de- 
dicated to St. Publius, which was afterwards 
very much enlarged by the Grandmaster Lascaris, 
and enriched with donations of a vast number of 
relics by the reigning Pontiffs of Rome. Among 
these Ciantar enumerates a piece of the true cross 
on which Christ was crucified, a little of the 
Virgin Mary's milk, some remains of not less 
than six of the apostles, and of about fifty other 
saints ! ! ! 

15 

i 



254 ITINERARY OF MALTA 

The descent to the grotto is by a convenient 
staircase, leading down from the chapel, The 
grotto itself is of a concave and circular form, 
not more than twelve yards in diameter, and 
about eight feet high in the centre. A fine mar- 
ble statue of St. Paul, with a latin inscription, 
occupies the middle of the cave, before which 
several lights are kept continually burning. The 
material of which the grotto is formed is a soft 
magnesian lime-stone, and reckoned very effica- 
cious as a febrifuge! 

On the right of the entrance is the following 
inscription, placed there by the Grandmaster Em- 
manuel Pinto. 

D. O. M. 

Hac dextrum divi Pauli cryptce lotus, 
t err am asportantibus nunquam clausum? 
et nunquam deficiens, semper excisum, et 
nunquam decrescens, ut in majorem 
cresceret venerationem, eminent issimus 
H. O. M. M. et Princeps seren. Fr. D. Emman, 
Pinto nobiliori auxit ornatu MDCCXLVIII. 

The opinion is quite common among the na- 
tives, that the stone of which this cave is com- 
posed is continually regenerating, and that 
although a sufficient quantity has been taken 
away to load several vessels, the dimensions of 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 255 

the cave remain precisely the same. It would 
be useless to adduce here any proofs to shew the 
glaring absurdity and inconsistency of this opi- 
nion; such tales passed current during the ig- 
norance of the dark ages, but the common sense 
of the present day will treat them as fables. A 
miraculous agency is assigned for the above phe- 
nomenon, as this at once removes every objec- 
tion which may be brought against it from any 
natural cause. The antiquity of the above grot- 
to, as well as the false notion of the miraculous 
growth of the stone, haye been ably confuted by 
papal writers. 

CATACOMBS. 

The Catacombs of St. Paul are situated about 
five minutes walk from the church, whither the 
sacristan generally accompanies all travellers 
with a supply of tapers, which he lights before 
entering. The descent to the entrance is about 
nine feet deep, by a staircase three feet wide, lead- 
ing to a kind of gallery dug under ground, with a 
great number of others branching off from the 
principal, and also from the secondaries. The 
sides of these passages contain many niches to 
receive the body, cut in the walls without any 
regular order; some are entirely uncovered. 



256 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



while others are arranged with more order, in 
two stories, and partly closed with a layer of 
mortar raised up in a circular form. These se- 
pulchres are of different sizes, some proportion- 
ably formed for infants, which generally occupy 
the sides, whilst in many of the larger ones, it 
may be seen from a couple of circular holes suf- 
ficiently large to receive the head, that they were 
intended for two full-grown persons. 

There are several halls among these galleries ; 
the roof of one is supported by a group of rough 
fluted columns, and on the floor of the same are 
two circular blocks, about four feet in diameter, 
flat on the top, with a low edge round the cir- 
cumference. Some are of opinion that the latter 
were used for washing the bodies before buriah 

The area of these subterraneous excavations 
cannot now be determined, as many of the pas- 
sages have been walled up, lest the curious visi- 
tant should lose himself in such a labyrinth, 
which according to tradition has several times 
happened. The stone of which these catacombs 
are formed is very soft and porous, and consumes 
away very fast by the dampness which prevails 
so low underground. 

Besides the above there are other similar ex- 
cavations in the Citt^ Notabile, many of which 
have been closed up. One of them, howeyer„ 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



257 



called by the natives Abbatia, in the district of 
Bit Riebu, about a quarter of a mile outside the 
suburbs, still remains open. The descent to the 
principal part of these catacombs is from a well, 
at a few paces distant from one of the subterra- 
neous apartments. About fifteen feet below the 
surface of the earth is a regular door way, in 
which there has been a wooden door. After pass- 
ing the threshold, there is a chamber about 19 
feet long by 14 wide, excavated in the rock 
which is rather soft, the roof being supported by 
an arch and two pillars formed in excavating. 
The chamber contains several sepulchres, and a 
round block similar to that which I have mention- 
ed in the catacombs of St Paul. 

Upon the arch over the farthest sepulchre, 
there is an inscription, of which the following is 
all that can be deciphered : 

NOT 

N i T O 
BI XlTINPAC 

PACEMAN/S^ ACV 

ATIO P°SITAE 

INHoCAOCO RECOR 

From the tenor of what can be gathered from 
the above, it may be concluded, that it was the 
work of Christians, 

*15 



2<V> ITfNET? AT?Y OF MALTA. 

There is generally much extravagance in the 
opinions entertained concerning the original de- |1 
sign of these, as well as other subterraneous 
sepulchral excavations. Many will have that 
they were formed by the primitive christians, who, 
during times of persecution, lived and buried the 
bodies of their confessors and martyrs in them. 
This opinion prevails at Rome, and consequent- 
ly a number of labourers are kept constantly at 
work at the catacombs, and as soon as they dis- 
cover a repository with any of the marks of its 
being that of a saint, what is found within is 
immediately taken care of. The principal mark 
of its sanctity is a small projection in the side of 
the gallery, a little below the repository, which 
sometimes contains pieces of phials, tinctured 
with various colours, in which it is pretended 
that the blood of the martyrs was preserved, in 
order to distinguish them from others. This 
imposition has no foundation to support it, and 
I would just remark, that the same custom pre- 
vails unto the present day in some places of Asia 
Minor. While at Castro Rosso, on the coast of 
Caramania, 1 observed several small mud- hillocks, 
piled up above the graves, in which were fixed 
small pieces of broken glass and earthenware of 
various colours. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



259 



Against the above opinion, concerning the de- 
sign of these catacombs, it may be justly argued, 
that at a time when Christians were openly per- 
secuted, it was not at all probable, that such vast 
undertakings could have been carried on with- 
out the knowledge of the persecutors, nor that 
any inimical government would have permitted 
the work to be prosecuted in opposition to their 
own proceedings. If, again, these were com- 
pleted during seasons of peace, they must have 
been public, and being found in such exposed si- 
tuations, just without the city, wouldnever have 
been useful for a place of refuge. 

It is my opinion, that the catacombs of Malta 
were originally the work of the Phoenicians, or the 
Romans, whose general manner it was to bury 
in caves; nor was the custom of interring as we do 
now, in the open air, or in churches, ever made use 
of before Christianity introduced it. The Romans 
probably derived the custom of burying their 
dead in such subterraneous cemeteries from the 
Phoenicians; for, that the same was prevalent 
with them, is very evident from the numerous 
catacombs to be found in Rome. At length, 
however, they derived from the Greeks the man- 
ner of burning their dead bodies, and as this 
came gradually into general use, the catacombs 
fell into total neglect. In this state, we may 

**15 



260 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

suppose that the Christians took possession of 
them in times of persecution, where they conceal- 
ed themselves, because it was not so likely that 
they would be searched after in such abandoned 
places. \V hen the empire became christian, they 
again fell into that state of disuse in which they 
are found at present. 

ANCIENT TOMBS OF BIN GEMMA. 

About one hour's walk to the west of Citta V ec- 
ehia is a hill called Ta Bingemma, in which are 
cut a number of sepulchral grots, of different sizes, 
and varying in their internal formation. At pre- 
sent, many of them are choked up with rubbish, 
and others serve as sheep-cotes and stables for 
cattle. Some appear to have been originally in- 
tended for one person only, whilst others were 
designed for two or three, as may be seen from 
the circular inlets made to receive the heads. 
A little above the tombs are cut small niches in 
the wall, apparently destined as stands for lamps. 
The caves occupy one side of the mountain, and 
are placed one above another in three tiers or 
rows. Several large caves contain no tombs 
whatever, and were probably designed for a dif- 
ferent purpose. 

Some have supposed that this place formed the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



261 



cemetery of the Essenes, a sect among the Jews, 
whose principal residence was the west side of the 
Lake Asphaltites, and whose manner of life was 
very retired and recluse. Leaving aside the want 
of all historical evidence to establish the fact, that 
any number of this sect ever existed on the island, 
the Arabic name, which the hill has retained, goes 
somewhat to nullify this supposition. Besides, 
there is another place not far from Citta Vecchia, 
close by the hill called Emtarfa, which has per- 
served, until the present day, the name of Kboor- 
el-Yehood, the Graves of the Jews: hence it is not 
likely that this people possessed two burial-places 
so close to each other, or that they ever existed 
here in such numbers as to render this necessary.* 
As to the style of the above tombs, very little 
can be argued therefrom, since different nations of 
antiquity buried their dead in the same manner. 
The small village of Siloah, in the valley of Je- 
hoshaphat, consists of huts formed from a number 
of Jewish sepulchres, cut in the rock at the foot 
of Mount Olivet, and which bear much resem- 
blance to those of Bingemma. The Sepulchres 
of the Kings and of the Judges, about a mile to 

* If in the above sentence T have confounded a parti- 
cular body of the Jews with the Jews in general, I have 
done no more than is customary among the Arabs, who, 
in general, draw no distinction between the different sects 
of that people. 



262 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



the north of Jerusalem, differ very little in their 
construction from the catacombs of St. Paulin Cit- 
taVecchia. In Persia and Egypt the same custom 
prevailed, as may be seen from many excavations 
of the same kind which exist unto the present day. 

I have already stated my opinion, in a former 
part of this work, that these grots are vestiges of 
the Phoenicians, who held possession of the island 
iw eight centuries. This manner of interring the 
dead was quite common to this people, as may be 
seen from the extensive cemeteries outside the 
the city of Sidon, one of their ancient principal 
towns. The formation of the interior apartments 
of the tombs exactly correspond in both places, 
and the site chosen for the purpose, in the side 
of a mountain, and not far distant from the city, is 
equally analogous. 

Another coincidence between the tombs of the 
Phoenicians in Syria, and those of Bingemma, 
ought not to be overlooked, — a coincidence which 
does not exist between the latter and any Jewish 
burial-places in the Holy Land: I allude to the 
larger caves which are found among the tombs, 
apparently destined for some other purpose than 
that of interment. I imagine that these were 
temples, as at a very early period the custom pre- 
vailed for men to repair to the summit of hills, 
or else to caverns in rocks, in order to worship, 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



263 



the gods, whom they imagined held their resi- 
dence in such places. This mode of worship 
existed among the Greeks, as may be known from 
the cavern which was dedicated to Aphrodite in 
Phocis, and the situation of Delphi and Parnas- 
sus, of which latter Strabo writes: (lib. ix. p. 638) 
"The mountain of Parnassus is a place of great 
reverence, having many caverns, and other de- 
tached spots highly honoured and sanctified." 
Among the Persians most of their temples were 
caverns in rocks, either formed by nature, or arti- 
ficially produced. Porphyry assures us, that the 
Deity had always a rock or cavern for his temple; 
and that these existed amongst tombs may be ar- 
gued from the testimony of Thevenot (Part 2nd, 
p. 144, 146.) who found several stone coffins 
among the excavated temples of the ancient Per- 
sians. From these data it may be argued that 
the same custom existed amongst the Phoenicians, 
and that the similarity of the tombs of Bingem- 
ma, in every respect corresponding with those 
which undoubtedly belonged to this ancient peo- 
ple, establishes them as the remains of their work 
in the island of Malta. 

EMTAHLEB. 

This place is situated not far distant from the 
shore, about three miles to the west of Citta Vec- 



264 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



ehia, and is much resorted to in the summer sea- 
son by parties of pleasure. The little variety of 
hill and dale which this spot presents, and the 
comparative fertility of the vallies, watered by 
a copious spring, together with a delightful pros- 
pect of the sea, form the attractions which draw 
visitors occasionally to spend a day here. There 
are only a few houses at this place, but a toler- 
ably spacious cave, through which a spring of lim- 
pid water runs, serves as a very agreeable retreat 
from the heat of the sun, and as a commodious 
dining room in w r hich to spread out a rural repast. 

BOSCHETTO. 

The above name is given to a public garden, 
situated in a delightful valley, about two miles 
to the south of Citta Vecchia. This place is 
well worth visiting. The garden is watered 
by numerous canals, which are supplied from 
the principal acqueduct. Here is likewise a 
commodious artificial grotto, with a fine fountain 
at one end, and provided with a stone table and 
benches, forming a pleasant and cool resting- 
place for a pick-nick party during the heat of 
summer. 

On a hill which overlooks the garden, called 
Monte Verdala, is a large square edifice, built by 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 265 

the Grandmaster of the same name, in the year 
1586. This building was used as a country-seat 
by his successors, until the Palace and Gardens 
of St. Antonio were substituted for that purpose 
by the Grandmaster De Paula. It is in a rather 
ruinous condition at present, and until very lately 
was used for the rearing of silk worms. 

On the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, the re' 
ligious ceremonies of which are celebrated at the 
Old City, the Gardens of Boschetto present a 
very joyous appearance. Numerous companies 
of people from the towns and the surrounding 
villages meet here, and pass the day in various 
kinds of rural pastimes and amusements, 

THE INQUISITOR'S PALACE 

Stands a little to the south of the Boschetto, 
in a very delightful situation, commanding a view 
of one of the richest vales in Malta. This build- 
ing was formerly the country-seat of the Inquisitor* 
but is now the property of the British Govern- 
ment. It is occasionally occupied by some of the 
gentry of the town, but when tenantless, travellers 
and persons visiting the place for recreation or 
pleasure are permitted to use it. The edifice is 
neat and commodious, and had formerly a small 
chapel connected with it, which is at present used 
as a common room, 



266 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



In the valley below is a large spring, called Ain 
U Kbira, by which name the region around the 
Palace is known. The fruit produced m this place 
is very fine. A little to the east is the district 
called Gorgenti. which is likewise very fertile in 
fruits and other productions. This is also water- 
ed by several springs, one of which issues from 
beneath an ancient building called Ta Durrensi. 
A little below the ruin, the water runs through a 
spacious cave, the area of which has lately been 
filled up by the falling in of the roof. There are 
several other old buildings in the neighbourhood, 
one called by the natives Torre tal FuUa. Be- 
sides these vestiges of antiquity, several hewn 
stones of uncommon size are to be seen in an old 
wall above the group of caves, situate in the 
eastern avenue leading to the Inquisitors Palace, 
and supposed to have been formerly the residence 
of a company of gypsies. 



FAUUARA. 



This name is given to a spot on the southern 
coast which overlooks the sea, and is much fre- 
quented by the inhabitants as a place of recreation 
and pleasure. The direct road to it lies through 
Casal Zebbug and Casal Siggiewi; but by crawl- 
ing down a steep rock it can be reached from the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 267 

Inquisitor's Palace, from which it is about two 
miles distant. The soil hereabouts is remarkably 
fertile, and is symmetrically piled up in terraces 
on the side of the ascent, which rises gradually 
from a precipice overlooking the sea about t^o 
hundred feet high. 

Beneath the small church of this place is a spring, 
which runs through an artificial cave, and thence 
flows into a large pond, from whence it is let out 
in different directions to water the land. In this 
cave is a stone table and benches, for the accom- 
modation of visitors, who come here to spend a 
day of recreation. 

From Fauuara the traveller may have a good 
view of the small island of Filfla, about five miles 
distant from the coast. This island is only inha- 
bited by rabbits, of which there are a great num- 
ber. It is occasionally visited by fishing-boats, 
which go thither in order to gather the patella, 
and other shell-fish, which abound on the shores 
of the rock. 

TAL MAKLUBA. 

The road to this place lies through Casal Luca, 
Micabba and Crendi, from which last it is about 
ten minutes' walk, and in all about seven miles 
from Valetta. The name is given to an oval 
hollow in the earth, sunk to the distance of 130 



268 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



feet, at the bottom of which is a very pleasant 
garden consisting of various kinds of fruit trees. 
The length of the aperture is 330 feet, and the 
width 200, The descent to the area below is by 
a narrow and very rugged staircase, cut into the 
circumference. The appearance of the inner 
sides is very craggy ; the rocks around are broken 
and scattered about in every direction, and the 
whole face of the land around this quarter bears 
evident signs that it once underwent some violent 
concussion. The country in the vicinity begins 
to decline irregularly for the distance of two or 
three miles before it centres in this spot, which 
very abruptly sinks into a deep hollow. It is 
difficult to determine, what may have been the 
natural causes productive of these phenomena ; '>ut 
the most probable opinion is, that they were oc- 
casioned by the destruction of a subterraneous 
cave in the event of an earthquake, or some other 
violent convulsion of nature. The word Maklu- 
ba signifies Overturned, and the common tradition 
is, that this hollow was the site of an ancient vil- 
lage, the inhabitants of which, like those of Sodom 
and Gomorrah, vexed the Almighty until he took 
signal vengeance upon them by destroying their 
village, as he did the tents of Dathan and Abiram, 
by causing the earth to open and swallow it up. 
According to Ciantar, some bitumen was formerly 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



269^ 



found here in the remains of a cistern, none of 
which, however, appears at present. During 
winter, the water in the cavity sometimes covers 
the trees, but it soon finds an outlet through the 
fissures of the rock. Close by the cave is a small 
chapel dedicated to St. Matthew. 

The appearance of the rocks above the sea 
coast, a little beyond Makluba, confirms the idea 
that it was produced by some violent natural 
commotion. The stone is of a dark hue, and is 
very rough and craggy. There are also large 
ravines formed in the rock, which open in the 
direction of the sea, and run very narrow towards 
the bottom. 

& GHAR HASAN, 

This Cave is situated on the southern coast 
of the island, and is well worth visiting, on ac- 
count of its interesting locality, and the pecu- 
liar style of its formation. The chief entrance 
stands upon a perpendicular rock, about two 
hundred feet above the level of the sea, the de- 
scent to which is rather dangerous. The interior 
is divided into several natural recesses, stretch- 
ing out in various directions, and extending in- 
wards for a considerable distance. A narrow 
passage across the cave leads round to another 

*** 15 



270 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



opening overlooking the sea, which cannot be 
reached in any other manner. There still exists 
a tradition among the natives, that this place 
took its name from a Saracen who resided in it 
for some time after the expulsion of his country- 
men from Malta, It is rather a singular coinci- 
dence, that the same name is mentioned in the 
Cufic inscription found on the island some time 
back, of which Ciantar gives a copy in his Malta 
Illus. Plate xvii. A very ingenious translation 
of the above, by Cavalier D' Itlalinsky, Minister 
Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the Empe- 
ror of Russia, may be seen in the Mines de V 
Orient. Tom. I. p. 395. 



HERMITAGE OF ST. PAUL. 

About a mile to the left of the road, after leav- 
ing Casal Nasshar, there is an extensive ravine, 
called by the natives Uied-eLAsel, in the sides of 
which are several natural caves of tolerable di- 
mensions. On a ledge of the rock, rather high 
up in the ravine, is a small chapel dedicated to 
St. Paul, built upon the spot where he is said to 
have resided. Were it not for the natural gran- 
deur of the scene around, this tale could commu- 
nicate but little interest to the locality in question ; 
as a proof of which 1 shall relate the following 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



271 



anecdote. It is now about two months since I 
visited the Hermitage, in company with a friend 
of mine, and while resting on the little square 
before the chapel, I asked a countryman, who 
had brought us a few grapes to purchase, whe- 
ther he thought St. Paul ever lived there. He 
very quaintly replied : "Sir, I do not know; there 
are so many places on the island where people 
say that the apostle resided, that I am inclined 
to think, that these spots were only honoured by 
a visit from him. And then again, to imagine 
that some one followed him to mark these spots, 
during his short residence in Malta, is rather too 
much for me to believe. " This I regard as a 
specimen of native common sense. 

Within the chapel of the Hermitage there is 
a cistern, filled with the water which trickles 
down from the adjacent rock. Several of the 
Grandmasters of the Order were accustomed to 
have their tables supplied from this spring. 

After crossing over the extensive and fertile 
plain of Nasshar, the next place of interest in 
this direction is 

ST. PAULS BAY. 

According to a tradition of the natives, this is 
the place where the great Apostle of the Gentiles 

16 



272 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



was shipwrecked, while on his voyage from Syria 
to Rome. The bay is about three miles in length, 
and two in width at the entrance, gradually de- 
creasing towards the extremity. At this point 
the beach is sandy, and differs from the general 
appearance of the coast round the harbour, which 
is rugged and rocky. To the north-west of the 
entrance is a small oblong island, called Selmone, 
or Selmoon, separated from the mainland by a 
narrow straight. A tower and other fortifications 
in the vicinity serve to defend the bay, and were 
raised for that purpose by the Knights of Malta. 

The only object of interest worth noticing in 
this place is a small chapel, built upon the sup- 
posed site where the barbarians lighted a fire to 
warm the shipwrecked crew. It contains several 
old drawings, illustrative of the events connected 
with the landing of St. Paul in this quarter. 

As it has been disputed by several writers, 
whether Malta, or Meleda in the Adriatic sea, was 
the island where St. Paul was cast away, both 
which were then called Melita, I do not judge it 
out of place, to bring forward under this head the 
arguments which have been adduced in favour 
of Meleda, and at the same time to subjoin my 
own reasons for maintaining the contrary. In 
a note at the bottom of the page I give the 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



273 



scriptural narrative of the event, in order that the 
reader may refer to it with greater convenience.* 
The following quotation is extracted chiefly 

• Acts xxvii. 1 . And when it was determined that we 
should sail into Italy, they delivered Paul and certain 
other prisoners unto one named Julius, a centurion 
of Augustus* band. 2. And entering into a ship of 
Adramyttium, we launched, 'meaning to sail by the coasts 
of Asia ; one Aristarchus, a Macedonian of Thessalonica, 
benigwithus. 3. And the next day we touched at Sidon. 
And Julius courteously entreated Paul, and gave him 
liberty to go unto his friends to refresh himself. 4. And 
when we had launched from thence, we sailed under 
Cyprus, because the winds were contrary. 5. A nd when 
we had sailed over the sea of Cilicia and Pamphylia, 
we came to Myra, a city of Lycia. 6. And there the 
centurion found a ship of Alexandria sailing into Italy ; 
and he put us therein. 7. And when we had sailed slow- 
ly many days, and scarce were come over against Cnidus, 
the wind not suffering us, we sailed under Crete, over 
against Salmone ; 8. And, hardly passing it, came unto 
a place which is called the Fair Havens ; nigh whereunto 
was the city of Lasea. 9. Now when much time was 
spent, and when sailing was now dangerous, because 
the fast was now already past, Paul admonished them, 
10. And said unto them, Sirs, I perceive that this voy- 
age will be with hurt and much damage, not only of the 
lading and ship, but also of our lives. 1 \ . Nevertheless 
the centurion believed the master and the owner of the 
ship, more than those things which were spoken by Paul. 
J '2. And because the haven was not commodious to -win- 
ter in j the more part advised to depart thence also, if by 



274 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



from a Dissertation of the Voyage of St. Paul, writ- 
ten by Dr. Falconer of Bath, containing the most 
plausible objections to the common received opi- 
nion on the subject, which I have ever met with, 



any means they might attain to Phenice, and there to 
winter ; which is an haven of Crete, and lieth toward 
the south-west and north-west. 1 3. And when the south 
wind blew softly, supposing that they had obtained their 
purpose, loosing thence, they sailed close by Crete. 
14. But not long after there arose against it a tempestu- 
ous wind, called Euroclydon. 5. And when the ship 
was caught, and could not bear up into the wind, we let 
her drive. 16. And running under a certain island which 
is called Clauda we had much work to come by the boat: 

17. Which when they had taken up, they used helps, 
undergirding the ship ; and, fearing lest they should fall 
into the quicksands, strake sail, and so were driven. 

18. And we being exceedingly tossed with a tempest, 
the next day they lightened the ship ; 19. And the third 
day we cast out with our own hands the tackling of the 
ship. 20. And when neither sun nor stars in many days 
appeared, and no small tempest lay on us, all hope that 
we should be saved was then taken away. 21 . But after 
long abstinence Paul stood forth in the midst of them, 
and said, Sirs, ye should have hearkened unto me, and 
not have loosed from Crete, and to have gained this harm 
and loss. 2*2. And now I exhort you to be of good cheer : 
for there shall be no loss of any man's life among you, 
but of the ship. 23. For there stood by me this night 
the angel of God, whose I am, and whom I serve. 



ITINERARY OF MALTA* 



275 



"That this island was Meleda, near the Illyrian 
coast, not Malta, on the southern coast of Sicily, 
may appear from the following considerations. 



24. Saying, Fear not, PauL; thou must be brought be- 
fore Caesar: and, lo, God hath given thee all them 
that sail with thee. 25. Wherefore, sirs, be of good 
cheer: for I believe God, that it shall be even as it was 
told me. 26. Howbeit we must be cast upon a certain 
island. 27. But when the fourteenth night was come, 
as we were driven up and down in Adria, about mid- 
night the shipmen deemed that they drew near to some 
country; 28. And sounded, and found it twenty fa- 
thoms: and when they had gone a little further, they 
sounded again, and found it fifteen fathoms. 29. Then 
fearing lest they should have fallen upon rocks, they 
cast four anchors out of the stern, and wished for the 
day. 30. And as the shipmen were about to flee out of 
the ship, when, they had let down the boat into the sea, 
under colour as though they would have cast anchors 
out of the foreship* 31. Paul said to the centurion 
and to the soldiers, except these abide in the ship, ye 
cannot be saved. 32. Then the soldiers cut off the ropes 
of the boat, and let her fall off. 33. And while the day 
was coming on, Paul besought them all to take mtat, 
saying, This day is the fourteenth day that ye have 
tarried and continued fasting, having taken nothing, 
34. Wherefore I pray you to take some meat : for this 
is for your health: for there shall not an hair fall from 
the head of any of you. 35. And when he had thus spo- 
ken, he took bread, and gave thanks to God in presence 
of them all; and when he had broken it, he began to 

*16 



276 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

L "It lies confessedly in the Adriatic sea, but 
Malta a considerable distance from it. 

2. " It lies nearer the mouth of the Adriatic 



eat. 36. Then were they all of good cheer, and they 
also took some meat. 37. And we were in all in the ship 
two hundred threescore and sixteen souls. 38. And 
when they had eaten enough, they lightened the ship r 
and cast out the wheat into the sea. 39. And when it i 
was day, they knew not the land : but they discovered a j 
certain creek with a shore, into the which they were 
minded, if it were possible, to thrust in the ship. 40. And J 
when they had taken up the anchors, they committed | 
themselves unto the sea, and loosed the rudder bands* 
and hoised up the mainsail to the wind, and made toward 
shore. 41. And falling into a place where two seas met r 
they ran the ship aground ; and the forepart stuck fast r 
and remained immoveable, but the hinder part was bro- j 
ken with the violence of the waves. 42. And the sol- 
diers' counsel was to kill the prisoners, lest any of them 
should swim out and escape. 43. But the centurion, 
willing to save Paul, kept them from their purpose ; and 
commanded that they which could swim should cast them- 
selves first into the sea, and get to land: 44. And the ] 
rest, some on boards, and some on broken pieces of the 
ship. And so it came to pass> that they escaped all saf& 
to land. 

Actsxxviii. 1. And when they were escaped, then they 
knew that the island was called Melita. 2. And the bar- 
barous people shewed us no little kindness : for they 
kindled a fire, and received us everyone, because of the 
present rain, and because of the cold. 3. And when 
Paul had gathered a bundle of sticks, and laid them on 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



279 



March, in a ship of Alexandria, which had win- 
tered also in the isle, and perhaps from similar 
stress of weather, and came from thence to Sy - 
racuse, where they spent three days, and thence 
proceeded to Rhegium, on the straits of Messina* 
and after a day's stay there reached Puteoli, in 
two days, which was the usual port at which the 
corn ships from Egypt landed their cargoes. 
Here, also, Josephus and his shipwrecked com- 
panions landed, after they were taken up by a 
Cyrenian vessel, the year after St. Paul's voyage/' 
(See Hale's Analysis, Vol. I p. 463, 469.) 

The argument contained in the first objection 
is based chiefly upon the word Adria, mentioned 
n the 27th. verse; but Bochart, Beza, Grotius 
and others, have shewn, that at the time in ques- 
tion, was comprehended under that name the 
whole of the sea between Greece, Italy and Af- 
rica; so that it comprised the Ionian, Cretan, 
and Sicilian seas. So Hesychius, "Ionium mare 
quod nunc Adria." And again, Procop. lib. T: 
Insula Gaulus (Gozo) et Melita Adriaticum et 
Tuscum pelagus disterminant. 

The first clause of the second objection is en- 
tirely hypothetical, and would only serve to in- 
crease the testimony in favour of Meleda in the 
Adriatic, after it has been once proved to be the 
landing-place of St Paul by superior argument, 



278 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



promontory of Crete ; and came nearly in the 
direction of a storm from the south-east quarter* 

3. "An obscure island called Melita, whose in- 
habitants were "barbarous/' was not applicable 
to the celebrity of Malta at that time, which Ci- 
cero represents as abounding in curiosities and 
riches, and possessing a remarkable manufacture 
of the finest linen. Orat. in Verrem, iv. § 18, 
46. See more fully on this subject, the citation 
from Diodorus Siculus on p. 4. 

4. The circumstance of the viper, or venomous 
snake, which fastened on St. Paul's hand, agrees 
with the damp and woody island of Meleda, af- 
fording shelter and proper nourishment for such; 
but not with the dry and rocky island of Malta, 
in which there are no serpents now, and none in 
the time of Pliny. 

5. "The disease with which the father of Publim 
was affected, (verse 8.) Dysentery combined with 
fever, (probably intermittent) might well suit a 
country woody and damp, and probably, for 
want of draining, exposed to the putrid effluvia 
of confined moisture; but was not likely to affect 
a dry, rocky, and remarkably healthy island like 
Malta. 

Ver. 12. " After a stay of three months, they 
departed, probably about the beginning of 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



281 



preceding verse; but this would be harsh and un- 
natural. My idea is, that the word ship is under- 
stood ; and if so, Euroclydon could not have been 
the south-east wind, for that instead of being 
'against them,' would have been in their favour. 

The narrative proceeds: "And when the ship 
was caught, and could not bear up into the wind, 
we let her drive." &c. And v. 27. "When the 
fourteenth night was come, as we were driven up 
and down in Adria, about midnight the shipmen 
deemed that they drew near to some country." 
It appears from this account that during fourteen 
days they were driven by a tempestuous wind, 
without discovering any land. If, however, they 
had been driven in a direction to arrive at Meleda, 
they would have passed close by the Morea, the 
Ionian islands, and through the strait between 
Italy and Greece; and this, not in a direct line, 
but with some windings; and it is highly impro- 
bable, not to say impossible, that they should not 
have discovered any where the vicinity of land,, 
as well as they discovered the vicinity of the is- 
land where they landed, even "about midnight." 
Further, "although neither sun nor stars in many 
days appeared," yet they certainly could find out 
the quarter in which the sun rose and set, and 
from this could discover in which direction the 
wind drove them. Finding that it was blowing 



282 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 

from the south-east, they would of course have 
looked for some anchorage in Greece, and the 
Ionian islands, where they would have arrived in 
a few days. Besides, we know that the south- 
east wind in the Mediterranean never continues 
so long in winter, and is seldom so tempestuous, 
as the east wind. Supposing then that it was the 
east wind, it would in fourteen days have carried 
them in a strait direction to Malta, without seeing 
and even without expecting to see any land. 

The third argument adduced by the objector 
is not valid ; inasmuch as it is a well known fact 
that the pride of the Greeks, and afterwards of 
the Romans, accounted men of all other nations 
barbarians. The apostle Paul makes use of the 
same expression in I Cor. xiv. 11 : " If I know not 
the meaning of the voice, I shall be unto him that 
speaketh a barbarian, and he that speaketh shall 
be a barbarian unto me." Herodotus also, lib. ii. 
158 says, "The Egyptians call all those barba- 
rians,who have not the same language with them- 
selves " And again Ovid, " Barbarus hie ego 
sum, quia non intelligor ulli." In Trist. ver. 10, 
These remarks, however, will not apply to Me- 
leda, which was situated in a well known part, 
and most probably inhabited by people who 
spoke the Greek language. 

The fourth argument respects the viper which 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



283 



fastened on St. Paul's hand, the existence of which 
the objector judges to agree more with the damp 
and woody island of Meleda, than with the dry 
soil of Malta. A\\ this I am ready to allow, as 
also the testimony of Pliny, that there were 
no venemous serpents on this island in his time ; 
but that there never were nor are any serpents 
in Malta is false. I myself have often seen snakes 
six feet long, and I know positively, that the same 
animals, of a smaller dimension, are very com- 
mon in the country. They are very harmless, but 
show some tokens of rage when irritated. It is 
my opinion, that one of these creatures is meant 
in the text, and that the very uncommon manner 
in which it laid hold of the hand of the apostle, 
(a fact the inhabitants had never before witness- 
ed) was the cause of their evil surmisings, and 
of their anticipations of the consequence. How 
far there may have been a divine interposition in 
causing the animal to act as it did, I cannot say J 
very likely it was only the novel effect of the fire. 

The fifth objection contains but little plausibi- 
lity; for, it is not necessary that a disease should 
be endemick in order to the existence of one case, 
which, however, we are almost obliged to infer 
, from the argument of the objector. But, more- 
over, it is a well known fact, that the very disease 



284 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



with which Publius was afflicted is by no means 
uncommon in this island during autumn. 

The last paragraph is not brought forward as 
an argument, and it is well that it is not. The 
narrative of St. Luke says, that they first went to 
Syracuse, then to Rhegium, now Reggio on the 
southern point of Calabria, and next to Puteoli 
near the present Naples. This is the natural course 
in going from Malta to Rome; but coming from 
the Adriatic sea it is not at all probable, that they 
should first have gone down to Syracuse, and 
then have turned back again to Reggio. 

Another incidental proof against the opinion 
I am endeavouring to confute is the fact, that at 
the island where the apostle was shipwrecked, 
there was another vessel, which had put in on 
her way to Rome, in order there to winter. 
Now, it is certainly more probable, that the Me- 
lita here spoken of is our Malta, and not the 
Meleda in the Archipelago, the former being 
quite in the way, while the latter lies several 
miles out of the regular course to that city.* 

The description given of the shore by the sacred 
historian gives little satisfaction to the enquirer; 
yet it proves nothing against its being Malta. 



# To assist the reader in following out the preceding 
arguments, a map is affixed pointing out the two course^ 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



285 



"And when it was day, they knew not the land 
but they dicovered a certain creek with a shore/' 
is all that St. Luke writes. 

But the 41st. verse is not so easy to be under- 
stood : the word in the original, (di9<z*cz(T<ro$) render- 
ed 1 two seas/ is sometimes applied to an isthmus 
which divides two seas, just as the Latin bimaris; 
sometimes to long peninsulas jutting out into the 
sea, and also to spits of sand under water. The 
latter seems to be the most probable idea, for we 
are told, that ' the forepart of the vessel stuck fast 
and remained immovable, but the hinder part was 
broken with the violence of the waves/ This 
took place in consequence of their intention ' to 
thrust in the ship, ' when they unfortunately light- 
ed upon a sand bank, where the sea is generally 
rough and surfy. Some critics understand the 
passage as conveying the idea of a surf or eddy, 
which beat upon the stern of the vessel, while 
the head remained fast aground. And others 
again have imagined, that the two seas refer to the 
channels, which run on each side the small island 
of Salmone, and which meet in the harbour of St. 
Paul. 

To the above proofs in favour of Malta being 
the island where the Great Apostle was cast 
away, we may mention the tradition which has 



286 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



existed amongst the natives from time imme- 
morial; an item of considerable weight when 
combined with other concurrent testimony. 

mellieha and calypso's grotto. 

About an hour's ride from St. Paul's bay brings 
the traveller to the Church of Mellieha, a place 
very much frequented by the devout among the 
Maltese, and by no means displeasing as to its 
situation. It is partly cut out of the solid rock, 
and contains a great number of presents to the 
Virgin, to whom the building is dedicated, such 
as silver and waxen limbs, pieces of old cable, 
iron chain? and fetters, pictures representing the 
deliverance of the distressed, &c. Over the 
small altar is a drawing of St. Mary, underneath 
which it is pretended that there is an original 
portrait of the same, executed by St. Luke the 
Physician. Several authors take it for granted, 
that this apostle, who accompanied Paul in some 
of his travels, came with him also to Malta; the 
grounds of such an opinion 1 have never had the 
good fortune to see established by historical evi- 
dence. 

Round a spacious square in front of the church 
is a row of rooms, prepared for the reception of 
devout visitors, and occasionally serve also for 
the accommodation of the parties of pleasure 



- 



I 



381 



lHlihj>j'Op<>HS 



^JampUcrtna SaluwdfifcOs • gJ 

5 Popji*/*^ I-' 1 f W^%» rl 

«J* , . ° • " ..ii^L y-f "v^" -•• LI 

— ,"^ = ^^ r " -. ' * .. . ; H 

, '" /r '' I 4/ -GVvr.cuS 




tTIXfcttARY OF MALTA. 



28T 



which often resort to this place. Just below the 
church is a small cave, called the Grotta delta 
Madonna, in which there is a spring of water, sur- 
mounted by a large stone statue of the Virgin. 
It is firmly believed by many of the people, that 
this image has been several times taken up and 
offered a more respectable place in the church; 
but that during the night, she has again chosen 
to return down forty stairs to her own old posi- 
tion. In this cave there are a few other headless 
statues, which may possibly have been heathen 
gods and goddesses. According to the testimony 
of the sacristan, they owe their decapitation 
to the infidel rage of the French, during their 
short occupation of the island. 

On the opposite side of the dale, which lies 
betw een the Church of Mellieha and a range of 
high rugged rocks, are many caves, some form- 
ed naturally, and others cut by art. On examin- 
ing a few of these, I found evident signs that they 
had once been inhabited : the floors of several 
are well smoothed, small niches for lamps are 
seen in the walls, and apparent divisions in the 
larger excavations for the construction of cham- 
bers. A little previous to my last visit to this 
spot, a countryman discovered a small lachry- 
matory and lamp, while digging in one of these 
grottoes. Both are made of red clay, resembling 

*** 16 



238 



ITINERARY OF MALTA, 



those in the Public Library, and apparently of 
Phoenician origin, if I may judge from their shape. 
The lachrymatory is in the possession of the 
priest of Mellieha, the lamp I obtained myself 
from the countryman. 

About half a mile to the west of the church of 
Mellieha is the supposed Grotto of Calypso, the 
spot so enchantingly sung by Homer, and dila- 
ted upon by Fenelon in his ' Aventures de Tele- 
maque.' It is situated at the foot of a hill, in 
which are many other grots of different dimen- 
sions, the greater part of which are still occupied 
by the peasants of the neighbourhood. A spring 
of clear water runs through the cave of the god- 
dess, and from thence flows forth into a large 
basin, from which it is let out to fertilize the de- 
lightful garden just below. Of this spot Homer 
writes in his Fifth Book: 

Large was the grot in which the nymph he found, 
(The fair hair'd nymph with every beauty crown'd) 
She sat and sung; the rocks resound her lays : 
The cave was brightened with a rising blaze: 
Cedar and frankincense, an odorous pile, 
Flam'd on the hearth, and wide perfumed the isle ; 
While she with work and song the time divides, 
And through the loom the golden shuttle guides. 
Without the grot, a various silvan scene 
Appear'd around, and groves of living green ; 
Poplars and alders ever quivering play'd, 
And nodding cypress form'd a fragrant shade ; 



ITINER ARY OP M ALT A . 



289 



On whose high branches, waving with the storm, 

The birds of broadest wing their mansion form, 

The chough, the sea-mew, the loquacious crow, 

And scream aloft, and skim the deeps below. 

Depending vines the shelving cavern screen, 

With purple clusters blushing through the green. 

Four limpid fountains from the clefts distil, 

And every fountain pours a several rill, 

In mazy windings wandering down the hill : 

Where bloomy meads with vivid greens were crowned, 

And glowing violets threw odours round. 

A scene, where, if a god should cast his sight, 

A god might gaze, and wonder with delight! 

Embellished and decorated by the masterly 
pen of the poet, a miserable cave is converted 
into a fit residence for a fabulous goddess. How - 
ever, any admirer of natural scenery will be de- 
lighted with the prospect which stretches before 
the sight from the summit of this hill. The 
green spot beneath, washed at its base by the Bay 
of Mellieha, the islands of Gozo and Comino in 
the distance, and the rugged heights around, 
form a coup d ml not every where to be enjoy- 
ed in the island of Malta. 

About one hours ride, over a rather rough 
road, brings you to the place called 

MARFA. 

This is the termination of the island on the 
north-west, and from this spot it is usual for those 

17 



290 



ITINERARY OF MALTA. 



to embark, who wish to visit Gozo, and who pre- 
fer a shorter sea voyage than going in a boat 
direct from Malta. At Marfa there is a small 
country-house, which has been occasionally oc- 
cupied by the Governors of the island. 

Midway in the channel which separates Malta 
from Gozo, called the Straits of Fregi, is the 
small 

ISLAND OF COMINO, 

formerly called Hephastia or Pfxestia, as ap- 
pears from the writings of several ancient authors, 
who mention it under these names. The island 
is about five miles in circumference, and is par- 
tially cultivated. It is defended by a fort, built 
in the year 1618 under the Grandmaster Wigna- 
court, which, with the exception of a commodious 
house belonging to government, is the only 
building on the island. There are also a few 
huts, in which the peasants reside who labour on j 
the soil. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

ISLAND OF GOZO. 



Ancient name of — History of — Geographical descrip- 
tion of — Fertility and Productions — Population 
— Language — Customs. 

The island of Gozo was called Gaulos by the 
Greeks, and G avium by the Romans. Diodorus 
Siculus writes concerning it, in his sixth book, 
"Melitam altera insula est, qua Gaulus vocatur 
in alto pelago, et ipsa portuumque commoditate 
prastans Phanicum colonia" Pliny also makes 
mention of it, in his lib. ii. c. 8. "In Siculofreto 
insula in Africam versa, Gaulos, Melita, Cosyra" 
And in lib. v* c. 7. "Gaulos & Galata, cujus 
terra scorpionem, dirum animal Africa necat" 
The Arabs corrupted the word Gaulos into 
Ghaudesh, under which name the island is men- 
tioned in their writings, and which it has preser- 
ved amongst the inhabitants unto the present day, 

According to several ancient Latin inscriptions^ 
found at various times in this island, it appears 5 



292 



ITINERARY OF GOZD. 



that it enjoyed the privileges of a municipality,, 
under the government of the Romans. Many 
of these inscriptions* are preserved in Ciantar's 
Malta Illustrate Vol. L Not. vi. lib. 2. As 
might be expected, from its near relation to Mal- 
ta, this island has generally shared the fate of 
the former, and has always been subject to the 
same masters. In 1551, after an unsuccessful 
attempt had been made by the Turks on the island 
of Malta, Sinam Pasha, the General of the Otto- 
man army, made a descent upon Gozo, which he 
cruelly ravaged. Gelatian de Sessa, the Gover- 
nor, made some feeble attempts to defend the 
castle, but he soon abandoned his post, and left 
the natives to fence the breach, which the enemy's 
cannon had effected. The inhabitants, seeing 
the dastardly conduct of their commander, would 
have deserted their post, had not an English 
knight taken the command, and with his own hand 
tired off the cannon which defended the breach. 
A ball from the Turkish batteries speedily ter- 
minated the career of this good soldier, and no 
one being found to supply his place, the Gover- 
nor dispatched a messenger to the Turkish Ge- 
neral with an offer of capitulation; but as he de- 
manded the most honourable conditions, Sinam 
Pasha contemptuously rejected it, and demanded 
that the place should be immediately surrendered 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



293 



at discretion. As soon as the Turks had taken 
possession of the castle, they immediately com- 
menced plundering the inhabitants, and commit- 
ted every species of cruelty among the people. 
De Sessa himself was taken captive, together 
with six thousand other Christians, who were 
hurried into slavery on this occasion. Two other 
unsuccessful attacks were made on the island in 
the years 1613 and 1709. 

In the time of the Order of St. John, the go- 
vernment of Gozo was committed to one knight 
and four Giurati> or Magistrates* elected by the 
Grandmaster. At present it is included withia 
the jurisdiction of the Governor of Malta, and 
the administration of its local affairs, as well civil 
as judicial, is carried on by persons appointed 
by him. 

The island is situated five miles to the north- 
west of Malta; its circumference is reckoned at 
twenty-four miles, its length twelve, and its 
greatest width six and a half. On the whole 
southern coast, and towards the west, it is guard- 
ed by inaccessible cliffs, sometimes rising to the 
height of 300 feet above the level of the sea. In 
this division are the two bays of Shlendi and 
Duejra, where a landing might easily be effected; 
but these are secured by forts built for that pur- 
pose. The remaining part of the coast is low^ 

*17 



294 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



though in some places very rugged, and contains 
several bays or inlets, which are in general pro- 
tected in the same manner as the former. Before 
the construction of these forts, the continual at- 
tacks of the Barbary corsairs rendered it unsafe 
for the inhabitants to remain in the open country 
after sunset, and on this account they were ac- 
customed to retire into the castle to spend the 
night. Under the secure and happy rule of Great 
Britain, these marauding expeditions are only 
known and heard of in the tales of some old 
Gozzitan, who perhaps may himself have witness- 
ed their dreadful consequences, but who has long 
since been accustomed to sit and to sleep under 
the shade of his own vine and of his own fig-tree* 
without having any thing to make him afraid. 

The face of the country of Gozo exhibits a 
greater variety of rural scenery than Malta, and 
is much more fertile. The surface of the island 
is studded with hills, which are in general cov- 
ered to their very summit with neat terrace w r ork, 
and occasionally lined at their base with a de- 
lightful grove of trees. Some of these hills are 
of a conical shape, and have been supposed by 
some to be extinct volcanos. This supposition, 
however, I believe to be without any foundation, 
as none of those which T examined bore any signs 
of combustion, though I ascended the summits of 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



295 



the greater part of them. The names of the 
principal hills are as follows: ta Cogliat, id-Dab- 
rani, ta Giordan, el Harrasc, ta Ammar, id-Di- 
begi and Colla Safra. 

The soil of the country is rich and remarkably 
well cultivated; the wheat, barley, and cotton 
which it produces, are of an excellent quality : of 
the former it yields a sufficiency for its own con- 
sumption, and the two latter articles form its 
chief export. Much of the cotton, however, is 
manufactured in the island. 

Although the cultivation of the above staple 
commodities engages the particular attention of 
the inhabitants, still they pay some regard to the 
rearing of fruits, legumes and vegetables, which 
the island produces in plenty, and with which it 
supplies Malta to a considerable extent. The 
grapes of Gozo are reckoned of a superior quality,, 
and the apples, though somewhat inferior, grow 
very exuberantly in the environs of Casal Nadur. 

The good pasturage for cattle, which the island 
affords, renders it abundant in sheep, and goats, 
and other animals. The milk of the sheep is 
made into a kind of cream-cheese, which is very 
palatable, and forms quite an article of trade. 
The honey of this place is also held in much 
esteem for its richness. The market of Malta is 
furnished with a great proportion of its poultry 



296 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



from this island, where they thrive remarkably 
well. The mules and asses of Gozo are of an 
extraordinary size, and even surpass those of 
Malta in their strength and beauty. 

The inhabitants of Gozo are, in general, very 
laborious; this may partly accounrfor their ro- 
bust constitution, which distinguishes them in no 
uncommon measure from their neighbours, the 
Maltese. The men are well built, of an ordinary 
stature, with full features, and flowing hair. Ia 
their costume, the people of the two islands agree*, 
except that the Gozzitans do not appear to have 
that predilection for the long cap, which is so 
much worn by the lower class of the Maltese ; 
a small straw hat generally supplies its place. 

The dialect spoken at Gozo is much purer than 
that used at Malta, and has a greater affinity ta 
the literal Arabic. It is not only in a great 
measure free from the foreign admixtures which 
destroy the beauty and elegance of the Maltese 
language, but the Arabic guttural sounds have 
all retained with this people their original utter- 
ance, the distinction of which is entirely lost 
in Malta. It is to be regretted, that when so 
many facilities exist naturally in these two is- 
lands, but in Gozo more particularly, for the 
easy spread of the Arabic language, and for ma- 
lting it in a short period the established language 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



297 



of the people, in which they might at once begin 
their studies, that little or nothing has been done 
to profit by this circumstance. To think of in- 
troducing the Italian or the English into this 
island, and of making it the language of the peo- 
ple through the medium of schools, is a chimera, 
which has no foundation in the history of past 
ages. 

It is worth mentioning, that at Casal Gharbo a 
peculiar jargon is spoken, which is not understood 
by the inhabitants of any of the other villages. 
After hearing of the circumstance, I used my ut- 
most endeavours to get two peasants to converse 
together in this gibberish,which they call Braik* 
but was unsuccessful for a long time, ' The villa- 
gers appear very shy in using it before strangers; 
and it was not until I chanced to meet a father 
and son alone in a field, that my curiosity was 
gratified. They themselves were perfectly un- 
aware how the jargon was formed, and could give 
me no clue by which I could discover its origin* 
but, upon close examination, I found that it was, 
in general, a simple transposition of syllables in 
■words, and sometimes of letters in syllables. On 
another occasion, I proposed several sentences to 
one of the villagers, and requested him to give 

* It is rather remarkable, that this is the common term 
Tby which the Maltese designate the Hebrew tongue. 

/ 



293 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



me a verbal translation in Braik, which he did* 
As these sentences may be interesting to some 
readers, I transcribe them. 

Maltese, Immurru yien u inti? 
Braik, Rumu nayi u linki. 
Malt. Fein tokghod inti? 
Br. Neif ghodtok linki? 
Malt. Inti ghandek mara? 
Br. Rama dennek linki? 

Even in the above few words, there will be ob- 
served some departures from the general rule for 
the formation of the jargon, which I cannot ac- 
count for. I have given the sentences as near as 
possible as they were articulated, and shall be 
glad to see the subject further investigated by 
some amateur of language. A countryman 
named Wenzo ta Shmoon, who resides in the 
small hamlet of St. Lorenzo, near Casal Gharbo, 
was pointed out to me as the village Regius Pro- 
fessor of Braik. 

Some parts of the ancient ceremony of burying 
the dead are still preserved in the island of Gozo > 
though not in universal use among the people. 
On the death of an individual, when the old cus- 
tom is observed, his nearest relatives and friends, 
both male and female, repair to the house of the 
deceased, and, upon entering, begin singing in 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



299 



a low and dismal voice some moral sentences* 
Gradually they grow more affected, and com- 
mence weeping and howling in the most doleful 
manner. The women smite their breasts, tear 
their hair, and endeavour to exhibit all the signs 
of despair. These mourners are called newwieha; 
but they are not hired for the purpose, as is the 
case with the Arabs, among whom the same cus- 
tom universally prevails. After this scene has 
been kept up for some time, preparations are made 
for conveying the body to church. The corpse 
is borne before, followed by the male mourners, 
each habited in a Greek capot, with the hood 
drawn close over the head, and uttering occasion- 
ally, in a low and sorrowful tone, such expressions 
as these: Alas, my brother! Where are you now, 
sister! He was lovely; but he is gone! Will you 
not think of us hereafter! Remember us to those 
who have gone before! How virtuous she was; 
but, alas! she has abandoned us! Why, oh why! 
did you leave all those who loved you! 

The male survivors of a deceased relative gene- 
rally suffer their hair to grow for several months 
after his death without cutting ; this custom is still 
occasionally observed by some of the Maltese 
peasantry. In former times, the burial of the dead 
was attended with many other ceremonies, such 
as destroying a few of the ornaments which were 



300 



ITINERARY OP GOZO. 



found in the house, overturning the furniture? 
breaking off vine-branches and strewing them 
through the rooms, and daubing the doors and 
walls with soot. These, and other extra vagances, 
however, have long since become obsolete. 

The chief town of the island of Gozo is called 
Rabat or Rabbato, besides which there are six ca- 
sals or villages scattered over the country. 

The following is a list of the population in the 
town and in the casals, according to the census 
taken in 1835. 

souls souls 

Citta Rabbato 5596 Casal Sheukia 1578 
CasalNadur 3804 — Sannat 1079 

~~ Shiaara 1996 — Zebbug 84t5 

— Gharb 1631 Total. 16,530 
The dwellings of this island, in general, but 
especially those of the villages, will bear no com- 
parison with the well-built houses of Malta. In 
this respect the Gozzitans are behind their neigh- 
bours, the Maltese, after every allowance is made 
for the greater difficulty they have in procuring 
the materials. The stone of Gozo is much softer 
than that of Malta, and is not so abundant. 

In every village of the island there is a com- 
modious church, besides five others in the city of 
Rabbato. 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



BAY OF MIGTARRO. 

This bay is situated on the south-east extremi- 
ty of the island, and is the principal harbour for 
those boats which ply between it and Malta. 
The bay is shallow, only affording anchorage to 
small craft, and is quite exposed towardsthenorth- 
east. In 1605, a small fort was built here by 
the Grandmaster Garzes, in order to command 
the bay, and to act in conjunction with the fort 
erected on the island of Comino, for the defence 
of the strait. This fortress is at present aban- 
doned, as its use was subsequently superseded by 
another, called 

FORT CHAMBRAY. 

The building of this fortress was commenced 
in the year 1749 by the Bailiff Jacobo Francesco 
de Chambray, a Norman Knight, who expended 
a large portion of his property in its erection; 
but, dying before the work was brought to a ter- 
mination, he bequeathed the fifth part of his estate 
for carrying through the design. This not being 
sufficient, the council of the Order made up the 
deficiency, and called the fort after the name of 
\ its original founder Fort Chambray. 

The fort is situated about ten minutes' walk 
from the shore, on a high eminence called Ras- 
at- T offal. The walls are about a mile in extent. 



302 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



and are defended on the west by a good ditch, 
and strengthened by several outworks. Towards 
the south it is fortified by the native rock, which 
rises up almost perpendicularly from the sea to 
the height of one hundred and fifty feet. Within 
the fort is a commodious barrack, capable of 
quartering a sufficient force for its defence. 

The ascent of the hill of Migiarro towards this 
fort, as also the land about the beach, is well cul- 
tivated. 

TOWN OF RABBATO. 

The distance from Chambray to Rabbato is 
three miles and half, over a good road, leading 
through a fine and level part of the country, in 
the highest state of cultivation. The citadel stands 
upon an eminence, nearly in the centre of the 
island, and is a little more than half a mile in 
circumference. It is ascended by a steep stair-case, 
and is surrounded by a ditch, where the walls are 
not raised upon the perpendicular rock on which 
the castle is built. These fortifications are at 
present in a very ruinous condition, and it is not 
probable that they will ever be restored, as the 
citadel itself is commanded by several hills in the 
vicinity, which render its situation by no means 
secure. With the exception of the Court-house, 
very little is to be seen within the walls but 



ITINERARY OP GOZO. 



303 



miserable dwelling houses. The principal building 
is the church, dedicated to the Assumption of the 
Virgin, which is also in a delapidated condition, 
although some vestiges are still left of its former 
grandeur. In the belfry of this church I observed 
a bell with this inscription, " Expello demones tern- 
pestatesq.sereno." I believe the same virtue is at- 
tributed to most of the church-bells among the 
Papists, — a privilege which they receive at their 
baptism ! From the terrace of this church there is 
a very extensive and delightful view of the whole 
country. 

In the suburbs of the citadel is the parish-church, 
dedicated to St. George, and two convents, one 
of friars belonging to the Minori Conventual! of 
St. Francis,and the other of Augustinian Eremita- 
ni. Close by the latter is an extensive cemetery, 
in one angle of which is the following inscription: 

Galli hanc Gaulos Insulam imperantes 
anno Dom. CIOCCLXX. , ne sacra ossa 
prcesulum, ac virorum illustrium, 
qui cum S. Ludovico 
Francorum Rege, profecti, 
ac ab Africa post helium sacrum 
hue translata, oblivioni darent; 
hoc sacrum coemeterium erexere, 
in quo singulis lapides sepulcrales 



304 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



anaglyphis distinctos 
propriis insigniis decoratos posuere. 
III. ac Rev. D. Paulus Alpheran de Bussan? 
Melitce Episcopus 9 
qui hunc dormitionis locum visitavit 
anno MDCCLV. M. Sept. die XT I. [ 
ut reliquce ex maximo numero 
lapides vetustiores, 
insignioresq. inventce omnibus pateant* 
et conserventur } 
heic &re proprio apponi jussit. 

I persume that the sepulchral stones referred to 
in the above are those which stand in the wall 
close by the inscription. They are twenty-eight 
in number, each bearing some symbolical figure 
roughly cut on its surface in alto-relievo. The 
principal figures are crosses differently shaped, 
and other ecclesiastical trophies, such as chalices, 
crosiers, &c. The assertion contained in the in- 
scription, concerning the original design of these 
stones, does not appear to rest upon any substan- 
tial evidence. Ciantar himself is very dubious on 
the subject. It is the current tradition among 
the inhabitants that they were put up in remem- 
brance of so many African bishops, who died here 
on their way to one of the general councils. This 
is certainly extravagant enough. 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



305 



Besides the above mentioned convents, there 
is another of Capuchin friars, occupying a very- 
pleasant site a little to the north-east of the sub- 
urbs of Rabbato. 

At a short distance from the cemetery of the 
Augustinian convent is the garden called Del- 
F Annunciata, situated in a picturesque and fertile 
valley, well watered by a copious spring. This 
garden is resorted to by the natives as a place of 
amusement, especially on the feast of the An- 
nunciation of the Virgin Mary. 

Adjoining the Franciscan Convent is the pub- 
lic Male Hospital, and a short distance from the 
former is a similar establishment for females. 

In coming to a place like Gozo the traveller 
will be anxious to know where he is to find a lodg- 
ing. In this respect, he will not anticipate the 
accomodation of a first-rate hotel; however, in 
case of a family wishing to spend a short time 
here, they can hire a well- furnished house in the 
citadel, beloaoins; to Mr. Griffitt, who himself 
generally resides at Chambray. If it is particu- 
larly requested, the person in charge of this house 
sometimes undertakes to provide a table for the 
lodgers. Besides the above, there is a Maltese 
inn, kept by Signor Filippo, a good-natured man 
on the whole, and deserving a better house if he 
would promise to keep it clean. But, laying all 

*** 17 



306 ITINERARY OF GOZO. 

joking aside, I would never wish to be more com- 
fortably fed or lodged for a few days than I was 
at the house of Signor Lippo. 

BAY OF SHLENDI. 

Though there is nothing particular to be no- 
ticed at this place, I mention it as affording an 
agreeable walk or ride, about three miles distant 
from Rabbato. The road is very picturesque, 
lying through several gardens, well watered by 
a copious spring, which flows in a small stream 
through a ravine extending inland about one mile 
from the beach. The numerous caves in the per- 
pendicular cliffs, which enclose the bay, are well 
worth visiting. 

BAY OF MARSA-EL-FORN. 

The above may form another agreeable trip to 
such as intend to spend more than a day or two 
at Gozo. The road is remarkably good, and lies 
through a level and highly cultivated part of the 
island. During summer this place is resorted to 
by several of the more respectable part of the 
inhabitants, who have small country-seats built 
on the shore of the bay. The safe anchorage 
which this harbour affords, and the convenience 
of a good supply of water, had once almost deter- 
mined the council of the Order to remove the city 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 307 

to this spot. Its not being a central situation 
was the only cause why the design was not carried 
into execution. 

HAGRA TAL GIRNAL, Or GENERAL^ ROCK. 

At the entrance of the small bay of Duejra, si- 
tuate at the western extremity of the island, is an 
isolated rock, known by the above name, on which 
grows the famous Fungus Melitensis. This rock 
is about one hundred and fifty feet distant from 
the shore, and is reached by means of a box, with 
a pulley fixed on to each angle, and made to run 
on two stout cables, well secured on both sides. 
After the box is loosed from its position, one of 
the men in charge takes with him a rope which 
he ties on to one end of the box, and, entering 
into it, impels it on by laying hold of the ropes 
and jerking it forward, until he reaches the rock. 
He then seizes the small rope, which he had pre- 
viously fixed to the side of the box, and suffers 
his companion to drag it over towards him by 
means of another, which he holds in his hand for 
that purpose. As soon as the passenger enters, 
the man on this side slackens his rope, and the 
box glides easily down the cables till about mid- 
way, where they bend; his companion on the op- 
posite side then pulls it by main force, until it is 

18 



308 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



sufficiently close to allow of landing without 
danger. Very lately the cables gave way, and 
have not yet been replaced. 

The fruit for which this rock is particularly fa- 
mous, called by Linnaeus Cynomorium coccineum, 
is not known to grow in any other part of the 
country. It springs up from the crevices of the 
rock, and, if suffered to come to maturity, gene- 
rally reaches the height of five inches. The 
plant blossoms in April and May, and, when fresh, 
is of a dark red colour and rather soft; but when 
dried, it is nearly black and becomes hard and 
solid. Formerly this plant was very much used 
by many physicians of Europe, and was consi- 
dered very efficacious in cases of dysentery, he- 
morrhages, and several cutaneous diseases; but 
it has long since lost its high repute, and is at 
present very little called for. 

GROTTO OF CALYPSO. 

I have already described a spot which bears 
the same name with the above, but as so famous 
a writer as Calimachus has maintained that Gozo 
is the island of the loving goddess, I have thought 
it not amiss to point out the spot which is here 
supposed to have been her residence. It is situ- 
ated in a rock overhanging the Bay of Ramla, 
and in my opinion would be a very safe retreat 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



309 



for a company of foxes. The entrance is ex- 
tremely narrow, and in no one part of the cave 
was I able to stand upright. The only object of 
interest worth mentioning about this place is the 
number of stalactites, which hang down from the 
interior of the ceiling. A great part of the cave 
has lately fallen in. 

CASAL NADUR. 

In the numerous gardens which surround this 
village grow most of the apples with which both 
islands are supplied. A pleasant grove of trees, 
called Boschetto, at no great distance, and ano- 
ther called Gnien esh-Shibla, at the foot of the 
hill on which the village stands, are worth visiting. 

TORRE TAL GIGANT, Or GIANTS* TOWER. 

This is one of the most interesting remains on 
the island, and merits a particular description. 
It is situated on an eminence, not far from Ca- 
sal Shaara, and consists of a large enclosure, 
formed by a wall of enormous masses of rock 3 
piled up one upon another, without any mortar 
or cement. The enclosure is of a circular form, 
and measures twenty- five paces in diameter. It 
is entered by two massy doorways, constructed 
of four stones, eighteen feet high and five wide. 
These lead into separate ranges of rooms, each 



310 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



range laid out in the same order, and only differ- 
ing in extent. At the extremity of the building, 
opposite the entrance, is a semicircular area, the 
floor of which rises higher than that of any other 
part, and is paved at the threshold with large 
hewn stones, on the surface of which some rude 
attempts have been made at ornamenting. Be- 
sides this, there are two oblong chambers in each 
range, which cross the area at right angles, and 
which are separated by a thick wall, except along 
the nave, which is left open and forms a second 
entrance into the inner room. The area of the 
apartments being somewhat crowded with huge 
blocks which have fallen from the walls, it is diffi- 
cult to describe accurately the several objects of 
interest which lie partly buried beneath them. 
To the left of the first apartment are the remains 
of an oven, the hearth of which is formed of red 
clay. The floor of he side opposite is partly laid 
with large hewn stones, which exhibit some marks 
of rough chiselling, apparently intended as a kind 
of decoration. In this part I observed a conic 
stone, about two feet and a half high, and one 
foot in diameter, which I have no doubt was one 
of the deities of the temple. To the right of the 
second apartment is a shallow circular concavity, 
imbedded in the floor, with a raised rim, resembling 
those which are met with in the Catacombs of 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



311 



Citta Vecchia. Close by this is a large stone, 
fixed in the wall, with a square aperture cut in its 
centre, seemingly designed as the front of an oven. 
Near the aperture is a small round ledge, which 
appears to have been intended for the stand of a 
lamp. On the opposite side of this chamber are 
several shelves, composed of large slabs, rudely 
piled up one upon another, without any regard to 
symmetry or taste. 

In the doorways there are several large holes, 
corresponding on both sides, and most probably 
destined for bolts in order to secure the entrance. 
In the same are cut several loops, which I ima- 
gine to have been intended as fastenings for the 
ropes, with which the victims were bound when 
brought here for sacrifice. 

This ruin is undoubtedly of very great antiqui- 
ty, and it is evident from the mode of its erection, 
that it was the work of the primitive people who 
inhabited this island. The style of its architect- 
ure does not correspond with any remains of 
Grecian design, and much less with any that 
have ever been attributed to the Romans. The 
purpose for which this building was intended, is, 
in my opinion, sufficiently clear. It is manifestly 
a Puratheion, one of those open edifices, called 
by the Greeks "TnaiGfa (Ipaithra), in which the 
rites of fire were celebrated. This element was 

*1S 



312 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



the symbol uqder which the sun was once almost 
universally worshipped: it originated in Egypt, 
from whence it was carried by the several nations 
which came out from that country. Among 
these were the Phoenicians, sometimes styled 
Phaecians, who were probably the first settlers 
in this island, and the Cyclopes, whose chief resi- 
dence was near Mt. Etna in Sicily. According 
to the learned Bryant,* the latter people belonged 
to the same family as the former, and have been 
represented by the poets as persons of an enor- 
mous stature, rude and savage in their demeanour, 
and differing from the rest of mankind by hav- 
ing one large eye in the centre of the forehead c 
This and many other extravagant tales, recorded 
in poetical history, concerning these people, were 
founded on original truths; and though they are 
so confused, that one will often find it very diffi- 
cult to draw a correct line between the truth and 
fable which they include, some general ideas can 
commonly be formed from them, without much 
danger of being led astray. In the present case, 
it is very plain, that the Cyclopes were persons 
of extraordinary strength, and were famous for 
their skill in architecture, which they introduced 



* See his 'Analysis of Ancient Mythology,' Vol. I. 
Art. Cyclopes, 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



313 



into Greece, according to Herodotus, who alludes 
to them under the name of Cadmians, in his Lib, 
v. c. 6. So much esteemed were the Cyclopes 
for their skill, that every thing great and noble 
was looked upon as Cyclopean.* In fact, there 
can be little doubt, that the extravagant opinions 
which were entertained, concerning the form and 
stature of this people, were borrowed from the 
height and wonderful structure of those edifices 
which they built. 

It is not my intention here to enter into an 
investigation of the question, whether the Phoe- 
nicians were or were not of one origin with the 
Cyclopes; the reader will find the subject very 
much elucidated in the foregoing reference which 
I have made to Bryant. It is evident that the 
Phoenicians of Syria were also famous for their 
skill in architecture, as well as in other arts, from 
several remains which exist in that country, and 
which can be attributed to no other people. 
Among these I would mention the enclosure 
around the two temples at Baalbec, in which are 
I stones of an immense size, measuring sixty feet 
in length and fourteen in width. These are not, 
it is true, composed of unhewn stones, similar to 

* "Quicquid magnitudine sua nobile est Cyclopum 
manu dicitur fabricatum." Lutatius Placidus in Statii 
Thebaid. lib. i. p. 26. 



314 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



to those in the Giants Tower; but then some 
casualty alone may have occasioned this differ- 
ence, whilst we know, moreover, that rough and 
unhewn stones were considered to be more pure 
than those that were hewn, in the very earliest 
times. Moses directed (Ex. xx. 25. ) an altar 
to be raised to the Lord of rough stones, not of 
hewn ones, which he declared to be polluted. 
( See also Deut. xxvii. 5. Josh. viii. 31, 32. Ezra 
v.8. 1 Mac. iv. 46, 47.) 

It may then be very plausibly concluded from 
the above, that the Giants' Tower is a monument 
of the ingenuity, skill, and mechanical powers of 
the Phoenicians, of whom we have other indubitable 
testimony that they lived on this island, if they 
were not also its original inhabitants. 

But the purpose for which such an extraordi- 
nary structure was designed is another interesting 
inquiry, which deserves a more critical examina- 
tion than the limits of this work afford. I have 
already premised my opinion, that it was destined 
as a place of worship, and that in it the rites of 
fire were celebrated. This I think may be 
clearly argued from the fact that it has not, nor , 
ever appears to have had, a roof, and from the 
manner in which the chambers are disposed. 
Its situation also, on an elevated position, is an- | 
other item not to be overlooked in determining L 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



315 



the original design of this structure. Such pla- 
ces were generally chosen for religious services, 
as hereby people imagined that they obtained a 
nearer communication with the Deity. Hence 
we read as far back as the days of the Jewish 
Lawgiyer, concerning the kings of Canaan, that 
they "made their offerings in high places." 
(Num. xxii. 41. Lev. xxvi. 30). Strabo records 
that the Persians always performed their religious 
services upon hills ;* and at the present day most 
of the temples of the Japanese are constructed 
upon eminences, and it is their opinion that the 
gods are peculiarly delighted with such high 
places. 

But there is another circumstance which assists 
in determining the character of this edifice, and 
which I have omitted mentioning in my descrip- 
tion : I allude to the figure of a serpent, roughly 
carved on a stone, close by the entrance of the 
second apartment of the smaller temple. Under 
this symbol many of the earliest nations, and 
among them the Phoenicians, worshipped the sun. 
The Egyptians sometimes represented their gods 
with the bodies of serpents; and they paid an 



§U0U<TI Ss Jy U^YI^CO T07TC0, 70V OUgClVQV YiyQUfJLSVQi Aia» 

Lib. xv. p. 1064.' 



316 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



idolatrous worship to those odious and danger- 
ous creatures, which they call their good geniuses. 
They regarded them as symbols of medicine, of 
the sun, of Apollo. They were committed to 
the charge of Ceres and Proserpine; and Hero- 
dotus says, that in his time, near Thebes, were to 
be seen tame serpents, consecrated to Jupiter. 
Upon the basis of tradition, it appears that this 
animal was first regarded as the symbol of the 
malignant being; secondly, that it was talismanic; 
and after having gone through these prepara- 
tory stages of apotheosis, was finally venerated 
as divine. 

That the Cyclopes were originally Ophitae, or 
worshippers of the symbolical serpent, there is 
sufficient evidence to prove ; and that the Phoe- 
nicians followed their example in this respect, 
there can be little doubt. Both these people 
emanated from Egypt, where this animal was 
universally adored; and it was partly through 
their instrumentality, that the same system be- 
came almost general in Greece, and in many of 
the islands of the Peloponnesus, as well as in 
the Mediterranean. 

Another item, which is worthy of notice in this 
brief sketch, is the conical pillar which I have 
mentioned as standing in the first apartment of 
the large temple. The like figure was common 



ITINERARY OF GOZO. 



among the Egyptians, and was called Ob-El f the 
same name which was given to the sun, of which 
they intended it should be the symbol; hence 
among the Greeks, who copied from the Egyp- 
tians, every thing gradually tapering to a point, 
vas styled Obelos and Obelicus. In the first vol- 
ime of Bryant's Mythology, the author gives a 
jlate of the Ophis Thermuthis, or Ob Basiliscus 
Jlgiptiacus, with a priest kneeling down before 
i1 holding in one hand the figure of a cone. 

The foregoing remarks will be useful, I hope, 
ii conveying some ideas, which may lead to a 
lore thorough and critical investigation into 
tis ancient building. 



" Ego quoque in his faciam finem sermonis. Et si 
iidem bene, et til historia competit, hoc et ipse velim : 
n autem minus digne, concedendum est mihi, Sicut 
,im vinum semper bibere, aut semper acquam contra- 
umest*. alternis autem uti, delectabile: ita legentibus, 
semper exactus sit sermo, non erit gratus. Hie ergo 
I it consummatus* " 



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